Speaking of plating where do you send it to and how much is something like that? By the way looking really good!
Speaking of plating where do you send it to and how much is something like that? By the way looking really good!
Yeah the black with white stripe on my new quad switches powers the engine switch just like OEM ATC250R and the black with white blocks wire from the quad switches is the hot for the lights. It mates to the white with yellow/orange stripe pinout on the OEM ATC harness plug. All the other colors between the new quad switches and the oem R switches were a direct match at the plugs. Only one of five didn't match colors.
I'll cover the jumper wire you made me in a future post along with the other things you taught me regarding the different regulators.
The shrink tubing did get in the way of the terminal locking into the plug housing but I trimmed it back just a little and got them locked in
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I haven't chosen a shop yet. It was at a shop and on their list but that's when I was going to just zinc it (Brite zinc) and his lead time is insane because it's just one older couple running the whole show and doing all the work. I want yellow chromate finish instead so I'm trying to find a different shop to do it.
I'm thinking they said it would be somewhere between $50 and $100 depending on how much cleanup they have to do to the axle
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Last edited by ironchop; 06-14-2019 at 07:04 PM.
You could do it yourself, like the actual setup is stupid cheap, but getting things working good on other parts first then doing the axle is kind of needed.
Bare basics, you need a tub that doesn't react with the acid, fill with enough acid to cover the target parts, hook up one wire to the part, and the other wire to a chunk of zinc that's also sitting in the acid. Polarity matters, one way you're plating the zinc, other way you're plating the part. You have to move the part, flip it over etc to get even coverage. Basically the zinc dissolves in the acid, and the electricity pulls it to the metal part. Surface area and such is a pretty big factor and such too.
I've read about doing this stuff a few times, but never tried it. Same logic can be applied to rusted parts, the rusted part is the source, and you plate another steel part with the rust.
$50-100 seems really fair for an axle. The yellow chromate finish I don't know much about, but I kind of remember it took some sort of special process to do it, different material or something.
The main thing you'd need to find is a DC power supply of sorts, voltage matters a little but not super critical, it's the amps that does the work. I've read a lot of people using computer power supplies on the 5v rail, modern power supplies you'd probably be targeting the 12v rail. Even a car battery with a charger on it would work.
Thanks ironchop, well hopefully you get a shop found. Thanks for the reply. That's worth the money, I got a nasa axle for my 200x that needs done.
Ok, I've been meaning to post this update for a few days.....
More differences between 85 and 86 R's
1985 and 1986 ATC250R regulator/rectifier are NOT THE SAME and NOT PLUG AND PLAY whereas the wiring connectors are concerned. Alot of you R gurus knew that already, I'm sure, but I got schooled after I went to plug up my regulator to my new wiring harness and only one bullet connector would connect. I never messed with building R's until this one, so I'm in new territory and still learning.
SO....I found this out thanks to Cory (ps2fixer). Apparently, I bought a rectifier on FleaBay that was mislabeled as an 86 regulator. It ended up being an 85, which as Cory explained, had different bullet connectors. I had asked if I could get the corresponding connector so I could replace the one on my harness with the same parts he used to make it, for continuity's sake (pun intended).
So he shoots me some pics of the difference so I could correctly identify them in the future and offered to make me a short adapter wire so that I could keep my nice new 86 harness intact, keep the incorrect regulator I already paid $60 for, and have it all work out fine for me anyway.
Many thanks to ps2fixer for the save especially since he uses the professional crimpers that actually crimp terminals rather than smash them together like so many hardware store varieties.... I can smash up my own wiring just fine, but it's nice when it's correct and professional looking instead. I'm willing to shed a few coins for quality
I'll include the pics of the different regulator connections in this post as well, and Cory can chime in and correct me if I misquote anything.
I tried to make the installation of the adapter wire he sent me as exciting and detailed as possible in my photo presentation below
He has more adapters available I think
1985 regulator....
1986 regulator.....
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Last edited by ironchop; 06-15-2019 at 03:09 PM.
Yep seems all spot on. The regulator with 2 males is the 85, the other with one male, one female is the 86. The harness ironchop had made I built to the 86 specs, basically the CDI and Regulator connections are the only differences in the main harness.
Anyway, I normally don't link products for adverting and such, but since you've mentioned them, here's the links. Nothing too special, just good wire, connectors, and crimps =).
85 harness to 86 regulator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192951072418
86 harness to 85 regulator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202707582335
As a side note, ironchop, do you mind if I use your photos as an "install guide" for my listing? Showing the actual harness/regulator connectors would help people out I'm sure. I'd just need someone with an 85 harness and 86 regulator to complete the photo set.
The regulator photos are from ebay, so sadly I can't really use those.
Thanks, btw really weird, the tapatalk hosted images show up as a standard jpg in the url, but go to save it and it's some web based image format. I just ended up screenshotting the images to get them lol. Anyway, they are on the listing now =).
Tore it halfway back down to check all my frame fasteners, re-route the throttle cable, shorten a cooling hose that was smashed up against the pipe pretty bad, and I checked for other interferences and fixed those.
I bought an airbox support ring..... One..... That seemed wrong so I texted Yaeger Performance for some advice and then ordered a second one. I put the first one on the intake tube side of the airbox so I could finish installing the carburetor. I put the second ring on with the air filter later.
I got the carb re-jetted with genuine Keihin jets for initial startup/heat cycles and went ahead and installed a new Keihin float, baffle, and float needle and tossed the Shindy rebuild parts in the drawer.
My clutch lever/perch showed up. I was looking for an MSR but it appears that they are owned by Pro Taper now (?). Still a good quality lever/perch. Got that installed and the clutch cable routed and connected.
Got the carb installed and noticed I was missing the carb clamp. After an hour worth of looking around the garage, I picked up my phone and ordered another. Looks like another three or four days before I start this thing..... I thought I was doing a good job of having everything on hand for each stage so I wouldn't be held up, but I was WRONG.
Nobody on Earth could drag out building a 250R like I can.
I'm going to pull a motor mount plate and make sure I have good metal-to-metal contact for grounding purposes and reinstall later today.
My Pipe seemed like it was in a bind in the rear after I tightened everything up so I milled a spacer and a clamping bar to spread out the clamping area a bit and hopefully show down the cracking of the muffler mounting tab.
Rock on, trike brethren.
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The ring that you show inside the air box, is that a facotry type of thing, or just helping to support the plastic? I've never ran into a honda with a ring in place there, but it makes sense that it could use one. I didn't notice on on a 83-85 era 200x either which has a similar air box setup.
If you’re concerned about stress on the pipe, I’d suggest that you bolt it in place under stress and then take a propane torch and warm it up in the areas you think are the most heavily stressed and nearest to the mounting points.
If your experience is anything like mine you will be pleasantly surprised to find that after the metal cools down the pipe is no longer stressed when mounted. Worst case scenario you can use a cool damp rag along with the heat to “adjust” the pipe. I’d still leave the spacers though, they look cool!
It sucks to get old
I like those pipe spacers, very sano looking!
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
I've had numerous machines and many with folding shifter pegs. I bent one six times in a week riding thru the woods at Trikefest..... I'm not riding this R in the woods so I found a TRX450R shift lever for $20 with pristine splines. When I find the original one that came with the motor, it will be my spare that I take riding with me. As for it's current whereabouts, I'm not sure. There seems to be a quantum wormhole in my garage that makes trike parts disappear.
I spent some money with Blue Line Graphics..... He carries those number plate decals for the rear fender cut for Maier style fenders. They were very thick material and easy to install. Fit almost exact if it weren't for me getting them a little crooked. I also got some other decals from him (Ohtsu, H ATC) and put them on. Got the front plate situated and tied down pretty good. The front brake line is indeed wonky. It's a Streamline and the fitting is clocked wrong on one end so when I bolt it up, the twist pulls the brakeline to the right. It's not irritating enough to return the brake line, so it's staying.
I also plan on buying hard plastic numbers for the front plate from BLG also. I saw on his website that he had 6 and 8 inch plastic numbers in Petty and UFO style both for anyone else looking for similar. $10 ea, I think, and came with fastening hardware
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