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Thread: My 1986 ATC250R Adventure

  1. #91
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    Caliper finished and ready to bolt up...



    I'm going to add some features to my delrin bushings to eliminate the squeaks and update that soon.



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  2. #92
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    I've been tinkering on this the last few months but I'm terrible about documenting my progress......

    So I split the cases after I bought a proper remover and splitter.

    Everything was pretty clean and looked very low hour. Clutch basket wasn't notchy yet.

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  3. #93
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    I got the cases stripped to see how many bearings I would have to replace.

    This is where misplaced hardware goes inside your crankcase to die shredded into shrapnel.

    You can even see where it worked past the crank tins to the outboard ends and then got caught in the bearing cage so that it could properly circulate through all the important stuff, trashing it as it goes....

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  4. #94
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    After spending awhile checking the inner crankcase webbing for cracks or bulges that would prevent a good case seal, I used a small drum sander to knock the high spots down a bit. I didn't try to sand them all the way out as it's thin there already so I wanted to keep from removing too much. Just ran over the top no pressure.

    Looks like it will seal just fine after I lap them a little.

    Trans shaft and countershaft bearings were a little notchy so I bought new Honda OEM bearings.....Then after much pondering, I ended up buying every damn bearing in the lower end except the crank bearings I got from Hot Rod and the upper needle bearing for the clutch arm as it's the only one not available OEM. I did, however, get the number off it and ordered another from the NHK distributor who DID have that needle bearing in stock. I also bought all new seals although the original set I bought was SKF brand seals from Tusk. I ended up just buying all new OEM seals and gaskets from Babbits.

    After installing all bearings in the case halves, the new countershaft bearing felt clicky so I must have gotten a piece of debris in it. Pulled it again, bought another and decided to get new OEM case dowels too.

    Also, before the bearing pressing, I forgot to mention that I taped off the case halves, blasted them, and shot them with some duplicolor engine paint. (This is a rider, not a restoration)

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    Last edited by ironchop; 11-07-2017 at 11:04 AM.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    I had received my replacement crank for the one they shipped last spring that had punched through it's box in transit. Second one showed up in good order. I started putting the cases back together after I had let the engine paint cure for a couple months. I'm not sure if that made any difference in how long it sticks but I'm not holding my breath. Just a rider.

    The last pic of the crankcase halves bolted together is actually the SECOND time I torqued the halves together. The first time, I got done and flipped it over to the clutch side to start installing the shifter drum linkage and detent assembly and the kicker. Went I went to clock the shift drum to install that roller detent wheel assembly, the drum was locked solid and wouldn't shift. It had been about 5 minutes or less on the 3Bond gasket sealer so I cussed profusely as I pulled my case splitter back out to pop the cases again. Turns out I had two shifter forks in the wrong groove on the drum. STUPID mistake. Easy fix. Made sure it operated the forks good before I cleaned off all the 3Bond and started over on the reassembly. This time everything worked as it should. I'm setting this lower aside for now awaiting the two clutch basket bearings I forgot to order.

    Next post will be my delrin swingarm bushing modifications.....

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  6. #96
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
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    4,737
    Looking good brotha!
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  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carthage NY 250r rules
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    2,345
    Looking good. I put new alignment dowels in my cases now when I tear them apart. Still available from the dealer. Picked up new ones for my 300r air-fooler cylinder.I like your post on the caliper rebuild Im going to rebuild a bunch that I have.
    250r rules

  8. #98
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    While I'm waiting on some bearings, I decided to mess with my delrin swingarm bushings I got from BKM.

    I had an earlier set from someone else on a 200X build and had some problems. Both were designed to be pressed into the swingarm and then just run the swinger bolt thru and tighten down but then you had some stiction and they would squeak if you got too much side load on those bushings as they're squeezed in between frame tabs. I decided to just copy the oem distance collars/spacer washers for the swingarm and ream out my bushings to fit some new units made from stainless.

    I did do some hand-lapping to ensure the sleeves didn't bind any after installation.

    No rocket science here. Easy job for a guy with a lathe or a guy with a lathe-having buddy.



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    Last edited by ironchop; 11-08-2017 at 09:32 AM.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    One new development and one thing I forgot to mention.

    Forgotten thing: I bought a cheap media blast kit from HF for $35. Not a big investment but handy for the stuff that won't fit in the blast cabinet at work. I got 4 bags of black diamond coal slag from Tractor Supply for $6.99 a 50lb? sack.

    So I took the frame and rig way off in the backyard with safety glasses AND a face shield and full clothing because this shat gets everywhere quick.

    I had it all nice and blasted once and awaiting paint in the garage. My son left open the garage door all day during a thunderstorm while I was at work so the pic you see is from the SECOND time I blasted this frame after it flash rusted.

    The two pics after is what I found when I was inspecting the bottom triple tree. I've never seen them crack there before. Those Eastern Kentuckians like to jump stuff off mountain tops I think. Haha.

    My first reaction is to grind out and weld up those cracks but I'm concerned the welds will pull and twist those ends up and misalign the fork tubes or put them in a bind after assembly. I'm probably going to find a new lower tree. The top tree had no such cracks. One fork tube was bent pretty bad but the other was fine. I got forks on the way so I can make one good set.



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  10. #100
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    9,003
    Can't tell in the photos, but is it possible that overtighting the clamps caused the cracks?

  11. #101
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Can't tell in the photos, but is it possible that overtighting the clamps caused the cracks?
    Maybe.

    Those cracks are on the back side (radiator side) of the lower tree and only in the back webbing and about .375 long. I figured the webbing extends over to the stem boss. I suspect the forces pushing and pulling on those areas enough to crack probably came from jumps or hitting solid things alot. One fork leg has about a five degree bend in it so it hit something hard at least once.

    Barnett probably knows what witchcraft is responsible for this specific kind of damage. Of course, he'll eventually say it's because Honda trees can't withstand the torsional forces needed to catch a Tecate, the world's fastest production three wheeler

    I'm going to set it aside and weld it someday to see how much it twists just for fun. I'll remove the stem bolt to put in another set of machined trees for some USDs later on down the road.

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    Last edited by ironchop; 11-13-2017 at 10:25 AM.

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    9,003
    Sounds like a hit did it. Amazingly the USD forks will stay straight as the trees bend, but that said none of my bent bike trees are cracked. Is your’s cast, or forged?

  13. #103
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Sounds like a hit did it. Amazingly the USD forks will stay straight as the trees bend, but that said none of my bent bike trees are cracked. Is your’s cast, or forged?
    I'm fairly certain they are cast

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  14. #104
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
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    4,737
    They are cast, get a different set. That’s ghandi
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  15. #105
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
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    5,911
    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Barnett probably knows what witchcraft is responsible for this specific kind of damage. Of course, he'll eventuslly say it's because Honda trees can't withstand the torsional forces needed to catch a Tecate, the world's fastest production three wheeler
    Yup!


    OMG...I think think it's finally tine to change my shorts.

    ...




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