I just recently invested in a high tension hacksaw, mucho better than the old wing nut style tensioning:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT20...04222461&psc=1
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I have not looked at it except when cutting, lol. I find i have to really sit down and decide to figure it out or it gets put off and still isn't fixed next time i use it. Thats what happend here.
Yes i can check those things out you mentioned to my best understanding. I think the saw may have came from Warner Gear, stuffs been around before me and thats a while ago.
A few random things about mechanical band saws and hacksaws:
A dull blade will always cut at an angle
A new blade needs to be broken-in. Best done with a mild steel solid round bar about 2” in diameter, cut slow, but not too slow, 1/2 to 3/4 of normal speed and make sure to cut at least 1” off or the teeth will wear unevenly on the sides causing them to cut crooked for the rest of their lifespan. Best to stop the cut when you see the short piece start to pull away from the larger piece as that is when the uneven wear starts.
After break-in try to avoid cutting less that 1/4” off anything. Trying to trim with a blade ruins it
Blade tension is critical!
Always try to cut into the flat side the weld seam of an ERW tube, or you will break teeth.
Always try to cut the narrowest section of a shape, i.e. a 4”X2” rectangle should be stood up in the jaws 4” tall with the weld seam either facing the front of the machine or on the top depending where it is located on the tube.
You should adjust the pressure of the feed as you approach the thickest section. This is usually at the end of the cut when the blade is making contact with the maximum amount of material
Look at your chips to determine if you are cutting too fast or too slow. They come off the blade curled. If the chip is in a full, or almost complete circle you’re taking too heavy of a cut and you will break teeth. Of the curls are too small, like less than half a circle you're cutting too slow and the material can work harden and your blade will wear faster.
Vibration kills blades, when you’re cutting thin materials and you see fluid bouncing off the material or hear it ringing your blade is being destroyed. Clamping with wood can help, you can even extend it through the jaws and cut some of it to reduce the vibration of the loose end of the material you’re cutting
If you brake a tooth off in a piece of material (you’ll hear it jumping and the jump will get longer with each revolution as more teeth break) best to stop and turn the piece 180 degrees and finish the cut with the old blade if you can, then put a new blade on as contact with the broken teeth will ruin a new blade
Chop Saws:
Hard steel is best cut with a friction disc on a chopsaw
If you’re cutting soft materials on a chop saw and the steel turns red and doesn’t want to cut, back the blade out, let the material cool for a minute and then start again. If the blade doesn’t want to cut you can fix that by cutting into something hard, like a file, or a broken racket, anything hard, just let the blade cut into it for a few seconds and it will cut like new again.
While it’s tempting to de-burr and sharpen things on the side of a saw blade, it also weakens them. Eventually they will break when cutting, so wear eye protection
I’m sure I’m forgetting something, but hopefully this helps you
If you need any odd, or large hinges try Cut-n-Weld on eBay.
Last edited by El Camexican; 02-17-2019 at 01:36 PM.
It sucks to get old
Cool and thank you, always useful information El.
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Oh God Scooter, I saw the first photo and thought that was you!
I’ve pulled dozens of those wires out of my belly. They go in so smooth that you don’t feel them till to try to take your shirt off.
Lost count of how many times I’ve had the ER guy remove grinding byproduct from my body.
This was the worst. Went over the cuff of my glove and right to my tendons and cotterized everything along the way, almost no blood loss. When I opened it it looked like the Terminator when I would wiggle my fingers. Made my buddy barf LOL. Needed stitches inside and out. Doc said another .01mm would have cut the tendons.
BTW, never grind brass or aluminum with a disc ment for steel, or it will eventually burst and NEVER let an old army doctor show his interns how to clean a wound and never refuse anesthetics!
Last edited by El Camexican; 02-18-2019 at 01:02 AM.
It sucks to get old
Got a call last night on the Explorer I was selling and they said they wanted to look at it today, so I got up early and fixed the roof. These have a problem where they get surface rust on the edge of the roof channel next to the caulking strip, and the caulking strip also gets stained with dirt and turns dingy gray, so I sand the offending area, then mask it off and primer, then spray can it. Unfortunately it was windy and humid and around 55 degrees so I had heat the paint up then use my blow dryer to dry and warm the area then pray it wouldn't splatter or fish eye all over.
Here's what it looks like when it finished.
Thanks for your concern, but I'm waaaayyyy uglier than him!
yea those friggin cutting wheels suck if they snag ya. I've had my share of close calls and a couple of the others you were talking about where it cauterizes it on the way thru.
Not only to you get a big gash, you get a second degree burn too! Bonus!!!
Liberalism suspends the intellect of its victims, while at the same time tricking them into believing that they're smarter than everyone else.
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Ordering a clear face shield.
85 Tri-Zinger 60
85 ATC250SX
86 ATC250SX
87 ATC250SX
02 XR650L conversion
84 ATC 480R