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Thread: 1985 Tri Z build.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    NC
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    1985 Tri Z build.

    Sooo. I'm doing a full frame up build of this bike. It was a mess when I bought it I paid $440 dollars for it (paid to much). I wanted to show everyone my progress and document the build. So far ive swapped the 5 speed for a 6, welded on new foot peg mounts and drank beer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails frame tri z.jpg   foot peg cut outs.jpg   tri z 6 speed...jpg   tri z 6 speed..jpg   tri z 6 speed.jpg   tri z home.jpg  

    tri z lower case.jpg   tri z jug.jpg   clutch cover.jpg   pegs welded.jpg   IMG_7479.JPG   IMG_7477.JPG  

    IMG_7478.JPG   forks.jpg  
    Last edited by pervO; 03-20-2017 at 03:47 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    You may need to grind part of your rear brake lever to fit over the new plate mount.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    6bt's Avatar
    6bt is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    What happened to the jug and casing?

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bt View Post
    What happened to the jug and casing?

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
    I bought it with the crack (the previous owner didn't say anything about it, imagine that), so I ground all the crack out. I'm dropping it off with my welder today. I'm guessing its from the port work leaving the jug thin in that spot and possibly over torqueing the nut right there.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    I have some new red shrouds and other parts if your interested.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pervO View Post
    I bought it with the crack (the previous owner didn't say anything about it, imagine that), so I ground all the crack out. I'm dropping it off with my welder today. I'm guessing its from the port work leaving the jug thin in that spot and possibly over torqueing the nut right there.
    Yup, it's from that boyesen port being drilled out incorrectly/not carefully enough. Gotta be uber careful with adding in that right boost port.

    What does it look like if you take a straight on shot of the intake mouth? Is the right a mirror image of he left?

    Also, those transfer walls look a little thin (too knife edgy) like someone got happy with a dremel. May want to have someone take a look at the overall port work done to the cylinder.
    Last edited by yaegerb; 03-21-2017 at 11:21 PM.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by pervO View Post
    I'm guessing its from the port work leaving the jug thin in that spot and possibly over torqueing the nut right there.
    Until the day mine cracks I'm convinced that the main cause of this phenomenon is improper shimming of the cylinder head mount to the frame. I could be wrong, but so far so good on my cylinder.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by El Camexican; 03-22-2017 at 01:08 AM.

  8. #8
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Check your cases where the cylinder mounts to see if that surface is flat.

    I would check the cylinder base to see if it is flat also.


    PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    Yup, it's from that boyesen port being drilled out incorrectly/not carefully enough. Gotta be uber careful with adding in that right boost port.

    What does it look like if you take a straight on shot of the intake mouth? Is the right a mirror image of he left?

    Also, those transfer walls look a little thin (too knife edgy) like someone got happy with a dremel. May want to have someone take a look at the overall port work done to the cylinder.
    Yes the left side is a mirror image. The "transfer wall" that you are talking about is in picture 13 with the jug upside down right? I wouldn't put anything past the guy I bought this pile from.
    Last edited by pervO; 03-23-2017 at 12:59 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Until the day mine cracks I'm convinced that the main cause of this phenomenon is improper shimming of the cylinder head mount to the frame. I could be wrong, but so far so good on my cylinder.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When I see other boost ports like yours it doesn't look like mind is tall enough. I think the wrench report says 1 inch tall by .5 wide. I think on mine they just copied the other side and never opened them up completely.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pervO View Post
    Yes the left side is a mirror image. The "transfer wall" that you are talking about is in picture 13 with the jug upside down right? I wouldn't put anything past the guy I bought this pile from.
    Yes, you are correct.
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    NC
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    42
    Does anyone have pictures of the zinger tank on a tri z without zip ties and cutting the air box cover? To answer the question "why not keep the stock tank?" Im going with a trx450R swing arm and the rear shock reservoir is in the way of the stock fuel tank. Hopefully my welder will be done with my cylinder sometime next week and I will take some more pictures. I got the bottom end completed. ( I had to braze the clutch cover where the previous owner destroyed it.) and my father in law welded a clutch tool for me lol we call him the bubble gum bandit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bubble gum bandit.jpg   tri z bottom end.jpg  

  13. #13
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    Check out Jeswinharts tanks if you're going that route.

  14. #14
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    This is a tri zinger tank on a Z, the airbox cover has been cut to fit the tank.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...t-tank-project

    Once you ditch the stock tank, you no longer need the fuel pump & it opens up different shock options. Many banshee parts bolt on like the swing arm bolt, rear axle,hubs, sprockets, rear master cylinder, both calipers and a few others work too.

    The PWK carbs are nice upgrades on the Tri Z, the banshee thumb throttle is used because the stock one is too small.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...d-interchanges
    Last edited by 3 Wheel Drive; 03-24-2017 at 12:40 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Wheel Drive View Post
    This is a tri zinger tank on a Z, the airbox cover has been cut to fit the tank.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...t-tank-project

    Once you ditch the stock tank, you no longer need the fuel pump & it opens up different shock options. Many banshee parts bolt on like the swing arm bolt, rear axle,hubs, sprockets, rear master cylinder, both calipers and a few others work too.

    The PWK carbs are nice upgrades on the Tri Z, the banshee thumb throttle is used because the stock one is too small.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...d-interchanges
    Did you zip tie that on? I'm wanting to fab up some brackets to mount the tank. I plan on a TRX450R swing arm.

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