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Thread: 1984 ATC 200ES Fuel Tank Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7

    1984 ATC 200ES Fuel Tank Issue

    New Member here,

    I am restoring my grandfather's Honda ATC 200ES back to working condition. Bought some replacement parts on EBay and Amazon. Having troubles with the fuel tank replacement.

    The original gas tank had rust spots on the inside, no holes but enough that I think it needs to be replaced. All the ones I have found online appear to be the same plastic tank. Found the lowest price that said it would fit the 200ES and bought.

    When it arrived I found that the tank did not fit over the intake shroud on the frame near the handlebars. Has anyone encountered this?

    I am hoping they sent me the wrong one and there is one that fits. I have not found much information on anyone having this same issue. Can anyone shed some light on this?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    THanks!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Stellenbosch, South Africa
    --
    179
    You should have just get rid of the rust spots and coat it on the inside then the tank would have been good as new ...
    1983 Honda ATC250R
    1983 Honda ATC200E BIG RED (sold)
    1984 Honda ATC200X (sold)
    1985 Honda ATC250ES BIG RED
    1985 Honda ATC70 x 2
    2001 Honda TRX90
    2004 Honda TRX300EX (sold)
    2008 Honda TRX250TM
    1976 Suzuki RV90M (sold)
    1967 Vespa Primavera 125
    1958 Massey Ferguson 35

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Australia
    --
    580
    Oem is always the best, I've brought aftermarket parts for my 200es and they don't fit the same as oem. Put the original tank back on and clean inside of the tank.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by deejaycee_2000 View Post
    You should have just get rid of the rust spots and coat it on the inside then the tank would have been good as new ...
    That's the plan now. Im returning the plastic tank. My original tank is soaking in rust remover, EvapoRust. I will be using Red Kote after searching online for solutions.

    Luckily, while it was sitting for 20 years there was about a gallon in the tank so it's only rusty above the gas line.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    W.Monroe, La.
    --
    14
    Let us know how your tank turns out. I have a real rusty tank that I need to redo and have also been looking at different ways to restore it. I really think red kote is the way to go. You will have a plastic liner in a metal tank. That was what I have been planning to use also.
    Some hay wire and a zip tie will fix that!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Stellenbosch, South Africa
    --
    179
    Pool acid works well removing rust from the inside of a tank.
    1983 Honda ATC250R
    1983 Honda ATC200E BIG RED (sold)
    1984 Honda ATC200X (sold)
    1985 Honda ATC250ES BIG RED
    1985 Honda ATC70 x 2
    2001 Honda TRX90
    2004 Honda TRX300EX (sold)
    2008 Honda TRX250TM
    1976 Suzuki RV90M (sold)
    1967 Vespa Primavera 125
    1958 Massey Ferguson 35

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    After soaking overnight, the rust seems to be decreasing. There are pieces of it now loose in the tank. I read that it is a slow working process so patience is key. I am going to keep it in there all day again today to see how good I can get it .

    I went away from using the acid because I didnt want to worry about the fumes and disposal. Evaporust is supposedly reusable and if it works, I have other non-Big Red rusty parts I would like to use it on.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    Soaked all day while at work. Checked it when I got home and was pleasantly surprised. It works better than I thought it would. The metal looks brand new. The area submerged by the evapo rust is completely rust free. There's a few more spots to get but it looks like this was the answer.

    After all the rust is gone, next steps are a water flush, acetone flush, drying and on to the Red Kote.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    --
    10
    It'll be interesting to hear how the red kote does. With the increased ethanol content of fuel it wreaks havoc on everything. If the Red Kote holds up that would be awesome!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    I have a gas station near my home that sells 100% gasoline. I use it for all my small engine stuff (lawnmower, chainsaw, etc.)
    I am an engineer in the oil/gas industry. Needless to say im not letting ethanol get anywhere near my new toy!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    Last night, drained the Evaporust and started the coating process. Rinsed out the Evaporust and then used two rinses of Acetone per the instructions on the RedKote can. Noticed there was some very light flash rust, which form what I read, is common. It was not on the entire tank but just a few areas. Once the acetone was evaporated/drained, I immediately poured in the Red Kote. Following the instructions again I rolled the tank around with the petcock hole and fill hole covered. The fumes pushed out the cover I had rigged up on the fill hole so I did have some minor spillage.

    After a few minutes of this, I drained the excess RedKote. This seemed to be the most difficult part. Because of the geometry of the tank holes, it was hard to get all the excess out. The petcock hole is on a flat surface so only so much was able to be drained out of that hole. I then placed the tank upside down over the RedKote can so the rest would have a chance to drain.

    After a night of sitting, there was still some left. I followed the instructions as best I could so hopefully this last bit will cure properly. Anyone else doing this process should ensure they have a good way to prop up the tank so the excess will drain out properly. Even so, it will be difficult to get all of it out. I will be letting it sit for several days or as long as it needs to fully cure.

    All this being said, I think it will work and aside from some electrical issues I have to figure out, I should be riding in not too long of a time.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    --
    10
    What is the process around the edges of the holes? Do you have to get the stuff wrapped around them so no liquid can get underneath it or not?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Southeastern Wisconsin
    --
    7
    I wish I would have taken pictures along the way but I was on a roll and didnt stop to do that.

    For the petcock hole, it was small enough that I just used a couple layers of masking tape.
    For the hole where the cap goes, I wanted the coating to run all the way up to and including the surface where rubber gasket on the cap seals. So I used masking tape to mask up to this edge. I overtaped the area, then used a cut up nitrile glove to make a "cap" which I cut to cover the hole but not large enough to go over the overtaped area. I dumped in the RedKote then I taped this "cap" over the hole to seal the hole. It was sealed until the fumes pushed out and I spilled a bit of the RedKote.

    I hope this helps, I can make a few sketches if it doesnt make sense. Something that may have helped with the spillage, instead of using tape only around the edges of the "cap" i made, I should have taped over the hole as well, this would have prevented the fumes from so easily bulging the nitrile piece and causing a spill path. I did not realize there would be so much pressure pushing it out.

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