350x carb issue

[350for350]

All you can do is keep going and keep up the field testing. Even when it's running right, still do the field testing. That's the best part! You never know, it may run differently after you fill the tank with gas, better field test it! Works for oil changes too.

[chasemanmusic]

That is after mixed riding. Essentially around my block. A couple wots through the gears, some decels, and some cruising at low rpm. Pull in my drive way, kill it and pull plug. I choke it to kill it because kill switch doesn't work. I've tested it and connectivity everywhere. Can't see why it's not working. For jetting up the main can I simply put any 148 for a keihin on there or do I need to order it for exactly this carb?

The power seems good from idle to wot. I did feel it was holding back a touch once at wot but thought it was just not warmed up enough. Maybe it is the main being too small.


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[chasemanmusic]

Grabbed 148 main at local atv shop. Installing tonight.


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[chasemanmusic]

148 is in. Set needle back to middle. Started messing w air/fuel screw to help throttle response. Kept screwing out. Got a little better but screwed it pretty far out. Ran out of time. Pulled plug quick and it's wet. So at least i have a rich condition. Gona mess w that screw a little more tomorrow if no improvement going to drop the needle/raise the clip a notch.


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[Shawn Powell]

I'd keep the screw somewhere between 2 and 2.5 turns. Remember it only controls idle. Anymore than that I would bump my pilot if it's still lean there. ( popping when you turn it off , hot headers etc. )


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[chasemanmusic]

I think it is really close now. Set it to 2-2.5 out and was still a bit lean looking but was better. So i decided to richen the needle down a notch and as i was reassembing i noticed a discoloration on the cap of throttle which i think was an air leak. So i tightened that up good took it for another ride. Exhaust popping is gone on decelerating, idles smooth, good throttle response, and pulls hard at wot. Plug looks better. Oh and header is much cooler. Before i couldnt even adjust idle/ get near that pipe without feeling like my hand was gona burn.

Ill post 2 pics below. First before air leak fixed second after ride around block. I really need to do more legit field testing, you think its safe to do a more extended ride?


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[chasemanmusic]

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[Shawn Powell]

Obviously I'm not a doctor. My wife does have a nurse outfit. But that's a different conversation. Yeah I think your good to ride have fun. Bring an extra plug just in case and the tools to change it but looks good to me.


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[chasemanmusic]

Lol Thanks Shawn and to everyone else who chimed in here.


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[Dirtcrasher]

The EASIEST way to diagnose em all:

Take The airbox lid/panel/cover off.

A) Runs better, you were rich and needed more air.

B) Runs worse, you were already lean and now you gave it even more air.

Lean motors really rip until a meltdown they're crisp!

Pulling the choke on and/or it running better with the choke on always means you were lean.

And rich jetting falls flat on it's face, it's blubbery, boggy and will have an ugly sparkplug.

An oil fouled sprarkplug is from a 2 stroke running Castrol at 12:1


Only make one jetting change at a time and write down numbers and running condition