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Thread: 4 Stroke Top end knock?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep1970 View Post
    i was thinking decomp cable but i dont think there is on on the fat cat right? On the 86/87 200x (its close to the same topend) if the cable is to tight it'll click like crazy up there. But prob not your issue. I see the lever now in your middle pic does it move freely(spring back) it only moves 1/4 inch anyway.

    Shep
    Yeah, no cable to the decomp. It springs back. I did move it while it was running a few days ago, it clicks when pulled but stops when released. I haven't tried to start it since re-adjusting the valves. Ran out of daylight. Actually broke the sight plug, which is on order now.
    Last edited by MPDano; 06-15-2017 at 08:55 AM.

  2. #17
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    Definitely not the valves. I started it up and could move the adjusters and same noise. Also, verified I am getting oil to the top end. I am now thinking chain slap/worn chain guide. Need to verify my tensioner is actually tensioning.

  3. #18
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    What a pain to remove the cam cover. Had to loosen all the bolts holding the engine and remove the muffler/header to loosen the upper rear engine bolts. Took the covers off and the chain is nice and snug. No slack whatsover. Checked if anything is loose (cam caps, etc). All is tight. I am starting to think piston slap now but not ready to remove the cylinder head to find out. I read somewhere that the timing chain guide could be faulty.

    Does any of these pics help? Do the guides look correct? Any thoughts?


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    Last edited by MPDano; 06-20-2017 at 11:21 PM.

  4. #19
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    Again, knocking not present when idling. Just when revving to a higher rpm. Stumped guys.

  5. #20
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    You may have to dig deeper.
    How are your rocker pads worn/smooth or gouged?( On the rockers )
    U can take out your cam chain tensioner/remove the chain (try not to let it fall into the case it could be difficult to retrieve)
    Lift the cam out spin it(the bearings in your hand) smooth?
    Its your call, but easy to put back together-kinda

    Shep

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep1970 View Post
    You may have to dig deeper.
    How are your rocker pads worn/smooth or gouged?( On the rockers )
    U can take out your cam chain tensioner/remove the chain (try not to let it fall into the case it could be difficult to retrieve)
    Lift the cam out spin it(the bearings in your hand) smooth?
    Its your call, but easy to put back together-kinda

    Shep
    Rocker visual looks fine. No play on them either. I can remove the chain without pulling the head off? I ask because once that comes out, I'll have to get a top end gasket kit.

    Honestly, the only thing removed from the engine was the clutch cover and had to remove and install the parts from the old to newer one. I am starting to 2nd guess how I assembled it. Can noise travel from there to the top?

  7. #22
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    Is your cam sprocket set in the right position? You may want to make sure the timing is set at TDC.

    My ct70 made noise similar to that when my timing was off.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Wheel Drive View Post
    Is your cam sprocket set in the right position? You may want to make sure the timing is set at TDC.

    My ct70 made noise similar to that when my timing was off.
    I guess I might as well since I have the cam cover off. Honestly, it really does sound like the valves hitting the piston top, so you might be on to something there.

  9. #24
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    Cam timing is spot on. Also, put a screwdriver and pushed on the chain and I can see the tensioner working.


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  10. #25
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    Just listened to this. Sounds like a big end conrod bearing or small end going out to me. Pull the cylinder and leave the piston attached. See if you have excessive play in the piston pin. If not then pull up and down on the conrod. Should be zero play up and down on the crank pin.
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    Just listened to this. Sounds like a big end conrod bearing or small end going out to me. Pull the cylinder and leave the piston attached. See if you have excessive play in the piston pin. If not then pull up and down on the conrod. Should be zero play up and down on the crank pin.
    Would a thicker oil like 20/50 make that noise go away if it was a bearing? The reason I say is that the oil did seem thick when I drained it. Thicker than the 10/40 put back in, which is when the noise appeared. Also, shifting was a bit harder when I first got it, but after the oil change it became very easy to shift. PO hid a bearing issue with thicker oil?

  12. #27
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    Also verified the tensioner had tension by removing, then using a small screwdriver turning clockwise to retract it and it sprang back as it should.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPDano View Post
    Would a thicker oil like 20/50 make that noise go away if it was a bearing? The reason I say is that the oil did seem thick when I drained it. Thicker than the 10/40 put back in, which is when the noise appeared. Also, shifting was a bit harder when I first got it, but after the oil change it became very easy to shift. PO hid a bearing issue with thicker oil?
    Possible but unlikely.
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  14. #29
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    I'm pretty sure you should not be using 10w40 oil in your motorcycle engine. You should use a lighter oil if I'm not mistaken, either way that will not affect the noise.... but it can cause your clutch plates to stick together.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Wheel Drive View Post
    I'm pretty sure you should not be using 10w40 oil in your motorcycle engine. You should use a lighter oil if I'm not mistaken, either way that will not affect the noise.... but it can cause your clutch plates to stick together.
    Here is a screenshot of the Official TR200 Service Manual

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