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Thread: Tri z astro kit quad

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
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    878

    Tri z astro kit quad

    So I know a lot of you guys are totally against these things but they are apart of 3 wheeling history so I think they deserve a spot, so I picked up this 85 a few months ago and I'm getting into racing and there is 0 racing for trikes over here so quad is the closest thing so I'm going to be racing it in an enduro race to test it out and see how it goes against the big 450s.

    Replacement parts are next to impossible to get so I'll update this thread with what I'm going to be using and adding.

    Front rims are a 4x166 bolt pattern which the suzuki lt250r and quadzilla run there arnt too many options for these other than Douglass blue label 10x6 with the offset 2+4 which match the original rims for this thing, you can get the thicker red labels but they are only 10x5 which will reduce your width and I wanted to keep its original width.

    After a lot of research the balljoints appear to be VW beetle outer left tie rod/track rod ends, I will confirm this on the weekend when I go in to town.

    I believe the tie rod ends from a ford escort MK2 will work I will check this out on the weekend also.

    My swing arm bushes are stuffed so I'm going to be turning up some new ones out of nylon and see if they hold up if not I'll try brass I think.

    My shocker bushes are stuffed it's got koni shocks on it which are more onroad shocks and only have preload adjustment, so I'm looking into something else with more adjustment.

    And lastly brake calipers are exactly the same as the rear so atleast that's easy I'll be keeping this updated as I get parts.

    If anyone also has one of these keep in mind they are not all the same mine runs tapered tie rods where others I have seen do not

    Here are some pics of how it sits at the moment
    Attached Images Attached Images
    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sulphur Springs,Texas
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    1,005
    That is pretty cool sir! I haven't seen an astro kit on a tri z before.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
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    5,742
    If you'd have good longer a arms made you could then run a normal 4+1 rims or a 4+1.5 rims or a 3+2 rim up front. Somthing with less bump steer. If you going that route you could even have different spindles off somthing newer like a 400ex perhaps. The thing is to get something to handle, then get its shock dialed in. That alone is going to let power to the ground...not sure what kinda shocks are even on it but you want sofa for XC and ground clearance. ALways thought he yamaha astro kits were one of the better looking ones.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Seattle, Washington
    --
    1,544
    I have a CALFAB +2" and a UFO air box if your interested. If you replace the stock tank, exhaust & swing arm you can seriously reduce your weight.

    Jesweinhart may still have some top mount tanks. I may have an Answer type II aluminum silencer laying around.

  5. #5
    Arky-X is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Arkansas
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    529
    The Hi-Performance catalog I have doesn't have the Tri-Z listed, only the YZ80 and DX225. I'm sure there are a few out there so NICE FIND!
    There were some captions under some of the pics that hint to what they use.

    Grimeca Hydraulic brakes with stainless lines (they spelled it both Gremeka and Grimeca in their catalog)

    Completely sealed automotive type tie rod end. Grease fittings and rubber caps. Standard automotive parts for easy replacement (sounds like you are onto what these may be.)

    Armstrong Fast Trekker tires

    Kit comes complete with:
    Frame: Weld on sub frame assembly
    A-Arms: Mild steel tube
    Brakes: Gremeka Hydraulic with drilled rotor discs
    Brake Lines: Steel braided
    Shocks: Progressive gas with 8" wheel travel
    Wheels: Polished aluminum ITP
    Tires: Flat Track or Knobby
    Fenders: Color keyed 3 piece molded plastic (Maier Mfg.)
    All hardware: Grade 5 or better

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    --
    878
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    If you'd have good longer a arms made you could then run a normal 4+1 rims or a 4+1.5 rims or a 3+2 rim up front. Somthing with less bump steer. If you going that route you could even have different spindles off somthing newer like a 400ex perhaps. The thing is to get something to handle, then get its shock dialed in. That alone is going to let power to the ground...not sure what kinda shocks are even on it but you want sofa for XC and ground clearance. ALways thought he yamaha astro kits were one of the better looking ones.
    That is for the future if this goes well in the race and i think it can compete i will be building my own a arms to run yfz front spindles hubs and rims with either elka 5 stages or fox floats but thats only if this baby shows it can hang with the thumpers ill put the work into it, its got koni 76-1373 shock on the front which are for the back of an older dual spring road bike they arnt too bad the way they are just for this race
    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    --
    878
    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Wheel Drive View Post
    I have a CALFAB +2" and a UFO air box if your interested. If you replace the stock tank, exhaust & swing arm you can seriously reduce your weight.

    Jesweinhart may still have some top mount tanks. I may have an Answer type II aluminum silencer laying around.
    How much are you asking for them both? I think ill need to keep the stock tank tho because these enduros usually last for 2+ hours non stop and i dont think a top mount tank will hold enough? i could always swap set ups for mx then back to enduro
    I can tig aluminum so the plan was to build my own swing arm up but if you can pm me for a price and list for what aftermarket parts you have for this
    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
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    5,742
    Could do a custom top big aluminum tank, get rid of fuel pump and center the gravity better. Anything can be made better with good engineering and money. BUt as my main riding styles is like XC all day long 4 stroke just rip that stuff up and sloppy mod so see how if runs and then if not have head modified to focus power where you use it in mid range to bottom end. I did with on 87 YZ250 eric gorr built for me...man it ripped.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    --
    878
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    Could do a custom top big aluminum tank, get rid of fuel pump and center the gravity better. Anything can be made better with good engineering and money. BUt as my main riding styles is like XC all day long 4 stroke just rip that stuff up and sloppy mod so see how if runs and then if not have head modified to focus power where you use it in mid range to bottom end. I did with on 87 YZ250 eric gorr built for me...man it ripped.
    yeah i was thinking that i havnt decided if i wanna put the time and money in this it would be cool but i dont know if a yfz 450 would be better because i wanna do the finke desert race aswell and i dont know if they would let me race it there
    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    --
    878
    time for an update guys!! after lots of trial and error i have found the tie rod ends are off of a Sunbeam Alpine they are exactly the same as the originals unless you get aftermarket ones which is cheaper!!

    balljoints i had no luck i did everything i could think of and couldnt find the right ones so I settled for the closest ones i could which are for transit van drag link ends the taper is slightly smaller so i have turned a taper on a thin piece of pipe and tapped it into the holes in the front knucles to add as a spacer which seems to have worked quite good!

    im setting up new front shock mounts to run trx 450r shocks which should be a big improvment aswell I will update once i have the mounts finished its just all sitting together in the pics.

    I mounted up a set of Flexx bars and used a set of fat bar clamps off of a yfz450, i took the bar pad off of the middle and mounted up my trailtech vapour inbetween the two bars for a bit of protection, my power for the trailtech is the power and ground wire going up to the kill switch so as soon as the bike is running it has power, and my temp sensor is inbetween the themostat and LH side raditor it takes i fair bit of effort to get it pushed in the hose but with some swearing it will go in, all i have lefot now is the speedo sensor

    in the rear end i put new axle bearings and seals in, i wanted this bike to be as wide as possible which is 1300mm or 51 inches wide so my plan was 1986 200x hubs which would add 2 inches plus the rims im running are 9x8 alba beadlocks 4x110 3+5 which make it sit bang on 51 inches so shes FAT!! and just to confirm for anyone wondering 2nd gen 200x hubs WILL NOT slide right on the dont even on they are 0.5mm smaller so what i did was get a hacksaw and cut the grooves down to the sligltly larger step at the back of the hub and then get a triangle file and do each little groove and then run the die grinder with grinding stone through and then and only then will it slide on!!

    im setting the nerf bars up now so that will be in the next post aswell!

    alright time for pics













    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,742
    Your getting there. Longer armswould give less bump steer. Ride it awhile then try and upgrade to shocks built for your weight and riding style. You will be amused better if a ride and power it can put to the ground.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    --
    878
    Yeah i will see how it goes but these should be a huge improvement over what was on in and ive never ridden anything newer than 80s technoligy so im sure i wont be disapointed haha
    73 atc 70
    84 ytm 200ern
    79 atc 70
    ytm 225 dr
    atc 90
    80 atc 110
    klt 250A
    84 atc 200es
    85 atc 250es

    gone but not forgotten restored 82 atc 70

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,742
    I know a guy who can set them up just as good as elkas. Most times they are too stiff. I had a set dual rates for my riding style and bike was barely $300

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