That sucks! Nothing like jamming on the brakes mid-wheelie. I'd say it's time for a better case saver too.Originally Posted by axeman24
Wires, Hoses, & Digital Wizardry.
Got the holeshot
That sucks! Nothing like jamming on the brakes mid-wheelie. I'd say it's time for a better case saver too.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
yaegerb
The day begins with 3WW
What mods do you speak of? Also, you are shooting yourself in the foot if you are changing the needle clip everything you change a jet. You change one circuit at a time. Put it back to 142 and go to the uppermost clip.
yaegerb
The day begins with 3WW
It felt better because you are introducing more air into the system. You are too rich.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Assuming he put a aftermarket one in. There is your problem. The 85 R does not like anything but OE boxes.
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
i am running 32:1 premium pump gas i forget the brand of oil it was what my dealer gave me when i got all my freshen up stuff
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
i try every change a jet i try every clip position and see which is best
its got a uni filter with a completely closed airbox with all tubes bored one over with proper bridge relief standard compression piston (170psi) fmf gold series expansion and dg silencer
yaegerb
The day begins with 3WW
IMO, while a UNI filter is an excellent upgrade to trap dirt and debris, the fact that you keep your air box on makes extra air flow nil. The FMF will decrease back-pressure and therefore your exhaust gasses will be less/fresh charge more when the reverse sonic waves "stuff" your cylinder. The bridge relief doesn't really add performance as it gets rid of a larger bridge that typically acts as a heat synch and potential piston "seizer". Another, better, option would have been to drill oil holes in the piston along the bridge line for optimum lubrication. Bottom line, those don't really add up to major increases in jetting for your carb.
Again, when changing jets in your carb don't touch the needle clip and vice versa. Short of an electrical issue, I think you will find that varying your needle clip without changing anything else will point you in the right direction.
FACT ! I have no edit button
Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
I have absolutely no idea what you are saying, but as mentioned, change only one thing at a time, then test it with that change before you change ANYTHING else. In the case of changing the needle position, it will have virtually zero affect on jetting at wide open throttle and since you are saying it burbles etc at wide open throttle, it means that the problem is not with the position of the needle. The varying needle positions are for very fine tuning only because they typically only make very small changes in performance. I would put the clip in the middle position or second from the top and leave it there until you fix the big problem.
Your oil ratio is not causing the dark color on your spark plug. The dark color typically suggests a very rich condition, however, plug can look darker than it normally would if there is an electric problem that is causing a miss. The problem now is that you said it ran worse when you put the smaller jet in yet your plug is still extremely dark and that it runs best with the stock jet but it still has a big problem on pavement at wide open throttle. If you are correct, this suggests that something other than jetting is causing the problem.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
not sure why that sentence got messed up i was on my phone in the garage i was saying that i test every clip setting after i change jets to get the best throttle response
yes i test on the street and in the horse pen after every change
thank you for putting in some good theory i really want to understand the pressures and thermodynamics of a a 2 stroke
by reverse sonic waves are you talking about scavenging or is it different in a 2 stroke
yes i am probably making it harder on myself by keeping the air box closed but i want to keep the bike trail capable
does it make sense that an electrical issue would behave differently on pavement then dirt
i think i am very close to dialing in the carb ive just been set back with the chain break
yaegerb
The day begins with 3WW
I have absolutely no idea what you are saying, but as mentioned, change only one thing at a time, then test it with that change before you change ANYTHING else. In the case of changing the needle position, it will have virtually zero affect on jetting at wide open throttle and since you are saying it burbles etc at wide open throttle, it means that the problem is not with the position of the needle. The varying needle positions are for very fine tuning only because they typically only make very small changes in performance. I would put the clip in the middle position or second from the top and leave it there until you fix the big problem.
Your oil ratio is not causing the dark color on your spark plug. The dark color typically suggests a very rich condition, however, plug can look darker than it normally would if there is an electric problem that is causing a miss. The problem now is that you said it ran worse when you put the smaller jet in yet your plug is still extremely dark and that it runs best with the stock jet but it still has a big problem on pavement at wide open throttle. If you are correct, this suggests that something other than jetting is causing the problem.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON
Post #20 I asked what his throttle position was and he said half at cutout, therefore, if he's correct, he's still on the needle.
FACT ! I have no edit button
Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
Yes of course, and I know you know how to jet a bike. I just didn't read every post, but the few I read of his seemed to me like he was referring to wide open throttle. If this is the case then he obviously has 2 areas to deal with, however, there is typically little point in changing the needle position if the main jet is way off. I set the main jet first then go to the needle etc. I think one difficulty for people here to be able to accurately diagnose the real source of the problem is the accuracy and detail of the info he is providing, but it can be difficult for some people to accurately test things and then explain a result in a useful way so we all just do the best we can.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
not sure why that sentence got messed up i was on my phone in the garage i was saying that i test every clip setting after i change jets to get the best throttle response
yes i test on the street and in the horse pen after every change i make
as for throttle position i am not getting any more power over half throttle
thank you for putting in some good theory i really want to understand the pressures and thermodynamics of a a 2 stroke
by reverse sonic waves are you talking about scavenging or is it different in a 2 stroke
yes i am probably making it harder on myself by keeping the air box closed but i want to keep the bike trail capable
does it make sense that an electrical issue would behave differently on pavement then dirt
i think i am very close to dialing in the carb as i am making improvement ive just been set back with the chain break
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Very interesting axeman24. These are the same issues I'm having with my 85' Tecate. Brand new biuld top and bottom, just can't get it to act right past half throttle. Running a pwk airstryker keihin carb. Driving me insane!
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
170 psi sounds on the edge of low.
Jetting is one change at a time. I know it's hard to be patient but it'll actually save you time. My jetting took 3 months but after i nailed it, i haven't touched it in 4 years.
Get an OEM CDI.
You're getting some good advice on this thread.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
I had a great weekend riding the r in pa right now it hangs with my 350 but it can be a lot better. I just had to ride it
I will get a oem cdi as I got paid nicely from selling that r swingarm I put in classifies
Overall I good dam love the r
You guys are a huge help in getting it running right and I will get it and learn a bunch along the way
No real update here except I had fun on 3 wheels
Back to troubleshooting this week
Here's an update I got my case saver chain and chain slider now all dirty from riding all weekend
Reply With Quote