85 350X Rebuild

[wonderboy]

I finally made the push to start the re-assembly of my 85 350x project.

This machine is the first one I bought when I got back into 3-wheelers several years ago. It was in really rough shape when I got it, but I managed to replace all the missing pieces (lots of bolts) and get it solid. The 12:1 compression ratio was a bit much, but it was fun. Eventually, something happened and the engine would no longer start. I knew it was time to lose the 12:1 and redo the whole machine.

I did the motor quite some time ago, and it has been sitting in my basement on a stand under covers just waiting for this day!


I posted pics of the motor quite some time ago, but it is basically completely rebuilt: new bearings, seals, 10.25 piston, mildly ported. Cases were all powdered with satin black, hardware was re-zinced.

Frame was reinforced with the gusset kit from Matt350x (on the board). His kit was all laser cut and fit perfectly. My buddy at work TIG'ed them in for me, and I had the frame powdered with Passion Red from Prismatic Powders.


I wanted the wire hold-downs to look original after having the frame blasted and powdered. This required stripping the black plastic coating off. Once I got the frame back, I used the Plasi-Dip Tool Handle dip to recoat the tabs. I painted it on using a foam brush. This pic shows the result on my 200x frame (being worked on next).


I didn't want to scratch the frame all up while mounting the motor, so I covered up all the critical areas with cardboard and carefully lifted the motor into place. It is amazing how close of a fit this motor is. There is NOT a lot of wiggle room...


Here is the motor installed:



I managed to get the triple clamp mounted (had to drive in new bearing races into the frame) and got the swingarm mounted (new needle bearings, seals and caps), axle installed, and hubs.


There is SOOO much more to do though. On my list:
Powder coat all the miscellaneous little parts that need to be satin black: calipers, master cylinders, brackets, etc.
Rebuild the front forks
Rebuild the rear shock (currently all apart, just waiting to be reassembled)
Get the gas tank painted
Get the seat recovered (optional, it is usable)
Get the fenders cleaned up (maybe polished)

I want to run a 400EX carb in this and I have a brand new one in the box, but in order to use it along with my newly ported head I have to figure out an intake solution. I'm planning on modifying an original to port match the head side to the newly ported head opening.

Lots to do, and I'll post updates as I get new things accomplished. It may take some time though...

[Arky-X]

Looking good!
This will be a nice one.

What steering stem bearings did you use?
I am going to go with All Balls and wanted your experience on whichever you used.

[Shawn Powell]

On the Intake boot question , did the port your intake hole out much larger than stock? I matched mine up with a dremel and cleaned it up after with a sanding wheel on the intake side and the carb side just used a heat gun to get it hot and shoved the 400ex carb into it. Seems to flow fine and motor wise mine sounds very similar to yours. 10.25 wiseco stock cam mild porting full exhaust. Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Shawn Powell]

Also bike looks awesome so far.

[Aulbaugh]

Looks good Wonderboy! I love that picture of the motor all pretty!

What steering stem bearings did you use?
I am going to go with All Balls and wanted your experience on whichever you used.

Go with the All Balls, unless you want or have to have old loose ball setup.

[Kamnahrt]

Very exciting build! I also have a 400ex carb on my 350 and like Shawn said for the boot to Carb interface a little bit of heat and it should slide right on.

[wonderboy]

Thanks all for the compliments!

With regard to the intake, my thoughts were exactly along the lines of yours, Shawn. The head opening is a little larger, enough that the o-ring on the intake won't have enough meat to seat on. So I'm going to dremel the intake to match the opening and plan on using the Hondabond sealant (the same stuff I used on the engine head cover) to seal the intake to the head. Then the hot boiling water trick on the carb side to make the rubber flexible enough to go onto the 400EX carb. (maybe not in the order I wrote it, boiling water first...)

For my steering stem bearings, I just used the conventional loose balls. Call me old school, but I really don't mind the loose ball setup. On top of that I was able to get a 100 pack of the loose balls from my local bearing shop for $5. So, I'm set for life!

My plan is to get the rear shock and front forks assembled so that the machine can stand on its own three feet. Then I'll break out the powder oven and get going on all the little parts.

[Arky-X]

Stopped using and endorsing all balls steering bearings on trikes. Tired of messing with fitment issues. Loose ball works fine on a trike especially with regular maintenance.

That's the reason I asked. Of the threads I've read, it seems like 50/50 on working fine or having fitment issues. Not sure how much is an actual product issue or user error. Knowing my luck, I will have a fitment issue AND user error so 100% chance it wouldn't work for me
Never had an issue with the ball bearings during the years I rode. I just didn't see the need because this is not trailer hub bearings spinning at 70mph. Solution looking for a problem?

Not trying to derail the thread, just wanted some info as you went along Wonderboy. Looking good, keep it up!

[Qdude79]

For the boot to fit over the 400EX carb, I greased the inner lip and slid it over the ball hitch on the back of my truck and let it sit in the sun for a few hours. Fit after that. Not even close before.

[Shawn Powell]

That's the reason I asked. Of the threads I've read, it seems like 50/50 on working fine or having fitment issues. Not sure how much is an actual product issue or user error. Knowing my luck, I will have a fitment issue AND user error so 100% chance it wouldn't work for me
Never had an issue with the ball bearings during the years I rode. I just didn't see the need because this is not trailer hub bearings spinning at 70mph. Solution looking for a problem?

Not trying to derail the thread, just wanted some info as you went along Wonderboy. Looking good, keep it up!

I redid mine with an all balls kit when I bought my trike. Probably didn't even need it to be honest but I didn't know if it had ever been done before. Had zero fitment issues and so far it's held up fine. For whatever that's worth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BOB MARLIN]

Stopped using and endorsing all balls steering bearings on trikes. Tired of messing with fitment issues. Loose ball works fine on a trike especially with regular maintenance.

Looking fantastic already, not a bit surprised. This will be a beauty.

I also stopped using All Balls because of fitment issues. And I agree, there is no problem with the loose balls.

[wonderboy]

UGHHHH!

Well, I've slowly been putting more and more together. I got the motor fired up and after some major rattling and a valve lash readjustment, it is running really nicely. I don't have the brakes installed, so I've left the drive chain off as well so I'm not tempted.

I've been letting the engine idle a bit and generally warm up then shut it off. I decided I'd shift through the gears just to work the trans a bit... 1st works, but then the troubles start. I don't have second, and then after that I've got a couple gears but not all (as evidenced by watching the sprocket and carefully stopping it with my hand). I must have missed engaging one of the forks on the shift drum.

I'm so disappointed right now. I have no idea why I didn't bench shift it through the gears when putting it together before putting the top end on. Live and learn. It's just gonna suck tearing the motor COMPLETELY back down. I'm really bummed...

[Aulbaugh]

UGHHHH!

Well, I've slowly been putting more and more together. I got the motor fired up and after some major rattling and a valve lash readjustment, it is running really nicely. I don't have the brakes installed, so I've left the drive chain off as well so I'm not tempted.

I've been letting the engine idle a bit and generally warm up then shut it off. I decided I'd shift through the gears just to work the trans a bit... 1st works, but then the troubles start. I don't have second, and then after that I've got a couple gears but not all (as evidenced by watching the sprocket and carefully stopping it with my hand). I must have missed engaging one of the forks on the shift drum.

I'm so disappointed right now. I have no idea why I didn't bench shift it through the gears when putting it together before putting the top end on. Live and learn. It's just gonna suck tearing the motor COMPLETELY back down. I'm really bummed...

Yeah that sucks, but maybe a positive thing is you've done the motor work and this next time things should flow. I've definitely been there many of times. There are times my sarcastic motto is "I love doing the same job twice". Stick with it, it's a beautiful engine!!!!

[wonderboy]

I was thinking I just needed to leave it alone for a few weeks and then get back to it, but it is driving me CRAZY wondering what I screwed up... I think that motor is coming out sooner rather than later.

All I can figure is that one of the shift forks must not be engaged on the shift drum. I'll definitely be figuring a way to shift this through the gears as soon as the case halves are mated.

[Shawn Powell]

Sorry to hear your build is stalled. Sometimes taking a real you have that "oh" moment and it all comes together. Just went through it myself with that airbox debacle. Good luck. Talk to dirtcrasher , he seems to be a gearbox wizard from what I've seen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk