If I were you I'd pull it apart and see what size feeler gauge fits between the shoes and the drum.
Yeah, I will likely do that.
I have no idea what the factory says it should be, or if they even have a tolerance, but due to differences in spring lengths, tension and wear in the areas that the springs hook into I would think that you would want at least .020" of free clearance all the way around.
You may know this, but in case you don't a centrifugal clutch like yours opens when the inertial of the rotating assembly overcomes the springs that are holding the shoes in place. If the springs are weak, or the pads you put on are heavier than the old ones the clutch will try to activate at a slightly lower RPM. Once it's activated or "opened" it only gets tighter with RPM. All wear occurs when the drum and the shoes are turning at different speeds. As well, aside from being immersed in engine temperature oil, they only rise above engine temperature and "get hot" when they are slipping. Towing, doubling up, obese riders and starting off in 2nd or 3rd gear are when most of the wear occurs on a centrifugal clutch. You do a clutch much less harm powering into a start than you do feathering the throttle to get it moving.
Yes, I do understand how the centrifugal clutches work, but you have some good points there. I towed a lot with this trike, and have carried *ahem* more than 2 people on it before so I can understand that. It was slipping really bad before I took it apart. Like 1/3 throttle before the thing would move.
Seeing that you put it together a year ago I doubt you have the original shoes to compare against the diameter the circumference of the new shoes, but it would have been nice to see how close they were, or if there were any other differences.
Hahaha. Oh, I still have them. I keep EVERYTHING. Just need to figure out which box they are in..... LOL But I will pull them out and check them against the aftermarket shoes once I tear into the bike. I actually have some OEM shoes off a parts machine too, so I can check against them if needed as well.
Depending on how tight the static clearance is between the shoes and the drum you may want to consider getting the drum turned to reduce the groves. That would be the best long term solution with the only downside being that it might heat and warp under extreme use if you cut too much off, but I wouldn't give that a second thought unless you were planning to cut the groves right out, or remove over .060" of material. Let me clarify that comment: Do not remove any more material than is needed in order to achieve .20 to .30" of clearance between the pads and the shoes before testing it.
Ok... I dont think that is a bad idea. And I have *I think* at least 2 spare drums so I can definitely look into that. I also have access to a fairly decent machine shop in town so I can ask the guy there about it.
PS, I have no idea what a Honda centrifugal clutch looks like, so someone want to current my assumptions for this application please do.