Please Help...can't get trike to start after installing new top end

[fabiodriven]

Choke cable adjustment perhaps?

[Tri-Z 250]

Are you sure you don't have a blaster cable?...they are the shortest of that style cable. I only know this because I run them on my Zingers.

[patblkwell]

Choke cable adjustment perhaps?

I did check the choke as well and it functions as it should and is not hung up. I will double check again though to be sure.

[patblkwell]

Are you sure you don't have a blaster cable?...they are the shortest of that style cable. I only know this because I run them on my Zingers.

I'm 99.9% sure its the stock cable for the YTM 225...the bike was pretty much all original when I got it.

[atc007]

A misrouted cable would be revving,not dying,assuming your idle is set right. I think you have a bare wire. Wait till it is completely dark at night ,and watch for a spark while turning your bars. Or just get in there and carefully look for a bare/kinked wire.

[patblkwell]

A misrouted cable would be revving,not dying,assuming your idle is set right. I think you have a bare wire. Wait till it is completely dark at night ,and watch for a spark while turning your bars. Or just get in there and carefully look for a bare/kinked wire.

I was thinking that as well, but if I increase the throttle when I turn it to the left it will stay running...

[patblkwell]

Well I got the throttle to remain fairly consistent now when turning the handlebars...I basically just played around with all the wiring and cables close to the frame until I found the sweet spot. I took it for a spin for the first time and it has good throttle response in low range but not at mid range (was bogging some if I tried to hit the throttle). Any ideas on what could be causing that?

[atc007]

Verify the main and pilot are correct size and needle in the middle. Clean the carb with very high compressed air. Make sure Carb cleaner/whatever you have will spray through each and every hole front and back. Make sure your air filter is cleaned/oiled/and unobstructed. She should rip after that.

[patblkwell]

I cleaned the carb very thoroughly, even took a small metal wire for the tiny holes, Etc. The carb is spotless inside. I'm pretty sure the stock jetting is in the carb, but how do I check to be sure? The C clip on the needle is set in the middle per the manual.

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[yaegerb]

I cleaned the carb very thoroughly, even took a small metal wire for the tiny holes, Etc. The carb is spotless inside. I'm pretty sure the stock jetting is in the carb, but how do I check to be sure? The C clip on the needle is set in the middle per the manual.

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A quick test to see if your are lean or rich on needle/main is to warm it up, and take it for a rip. As you are going down the road flip the choke on and see if the mid-bog get worse or better.

If it bogs worse then you are too rich and I would recommend going up 1 clip on the needle.
If the bogging clears up then you are too lean and I would go down 1 clip on the needle.

Then repeat the process. if you find that no needle adjustment will work then its time to go to the main. But all things being equal (non performance parts on this machine) you shouldn't need to touch the main.

[patblkwell]

A quick test to see if your are lean or rich on needle/main is to warm it up, and take it for a rip. As you are going down the road flip the choke on and see if the mid-bog get worse or better.

If it bogs worse then you are too rich and I would recommend going up 1 clip on the needle.
If the bogging clears up then you are too lean and I would go down 1 clip on the needle.

Then repeat the process. if you find that no needle adjustment will work then its time to go to the main. But all things being equal (non performance parts on this machine) you shouldn't need to touch the main.

10-4 will definitely try that and report back after doing so. Thanks

[patblkwell]

Ok I got a chance to test out the bike again today and here's the deal...it will start up on the first pull, idle perfectly and you can rev the throttle repeatedly with no bogging whatsoever.... Has great throttle response. When I take it for a ride, the throttle is normal from 1st to 2nd gear in low range, then once you try to accelerate past second gear to shift to third it bogs and loses power… I have tried adjusting the needle up-and-down and even adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw and it runs the same. I also tried as one poster suggested to flip the choke on while riding down the road, but it seems to not make much difference as well. It still won't let me open up the throttle once you get past second gear without bogging. Could it possibly be the main jet or the float level of my carburetor is off? Prior to all this I did clean the carb very thoroughly and it was clean as a whistle just FYI.


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[El Camexican]

Don't laugh at this, but before you touch anything else make sure your rear brake isn't dragging.

If that checks out pull the hose off of your petcock and make sure that it is flowing decently and that your gas cap vent isn't plugged.

[patblkwell]

Don't laugh at this, but before you touch anything else make sure your rear brake isn't dragging.

If that checks out pull the hose off of your petcock and make sure that it is flowing decently and that your gas cap vent isn't plugged.

Haha yeah my brakes are free for sure on my bike… Probably need to be tightened somewhat as the bike rolls very easily and freely.I did check the fuel flow from the petcock and it is flowing to the carb just fine.


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[El Camexican]

In theory your motor doesn't care what gear it's in. If it can rev in first and second gear it should be able to rev in third, fourth & fifth unless something in your drivetrain is causing a restriction.

Can you get it up on blocks and safely run it through the gears to see if anything weird is happening?