//ArrowChat Code
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Strong exhaust fumes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97

    Strong exhaust fumes

    Hello Wheelermeisters,

    I have recently purchased a 1983 185s which is essentially stock. It is in really nice shape overall. The previous owner stated he had the carb cleaned prior to selling. I have set the idle speed and idle mixture screws, and it starts on one pull and idles effortlessly. I had a 185s 30 yrs ago when I was a teenager, so it has been some time ago. The current 185s seems to put out a lot of fumes - but there is not even a puff of smoke. when it starts or runs. I have recently changed the spark plug and oil. The 185s that I had 30 yrs ago had a Supertrapp and a K&N, and I don't recall it producing strong fumes.

    Do I remember incorrectly and these machines just make some fumes? Or might there be something that can be tuned or adjusted?

    Thanks for any and all help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,010
    Sounds like a fuel screw adjustment. I'm guessing it will idle off the choke almost immediately? If so, gently turn it in till its closed and count the turns. Report your findings here and someone who has tuned one of these will tell you if you're close, or way off.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97
    Yes, it will idle off of choke immediately.

    The current settings are:

    Idle speed set screw approximately 3 1/4 turns out from full tight

    Idle mixture screw 3 1/2 turns out from full tight

    Mucho Gracias for any help

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,010
    If no one else jumps in with a starting point for the fuel screw, try going in 1/2 turn at a time and see what happens. Typically when you get close to where you should be you'll find it takes at least 15 seconds to a minute before it will idle off the choke depending on the ambient temperature and it may stall out if you crack the throttle too fast before the engine is up to operating temperature.

    If you think you may be running too lean on the fuel screw just pull the choke out when the motor is up to operating temperature. If it stalls you're fine, if it revs higher you're lean and should open the screw up in 1\2 turn increments until it stalls out with the choke when warm.

    Unfortunately it seems the only way to eliminate the bog, or stall on a four stroke without an accelerator pump type carb when it's not up to full operating temperature is to run the fuel screw a little rich and suffer from the smell of raw fuel and reduced mileage when it gets hot, so best to just get it set right and expect to get it good and warm before you run it hard.

    Idle screw just sets idle speed, I doubt there is a recommended amount of turns to set it to, so just use it to adjust your idle to when you want it when its fully warmed up. That slight bog I mentioned that you may end up with can be minimized by running the idle a little on the high side.

    BTW you used the word "tight" don't tighten any adjustment screw on a carb too much. Some of them have O-rings that can get crushed or torn and others have fragile tips that can be damaged. Snug is all you need.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Louisiana
    --
    33
    Turn in all the way and back out 2 1/2 turns thus will set back to stock.. if it still runs rich try 1/4 turn in until you get it right..
    1985 ATC 350X working progress
    1983 ATC 200X for sale

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97
    Thanks for the great info guys, I'll get to it and try to get it sussed.

    Any other info is welcome

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97
    Additionally, the Choke has two detents (other than off). Down is off, one click up and a 2nd click up. I assume that one click up is for starting when it isn't really cold out and two clicks up is for starting when it is really cold.

    Are these assumptions correct?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Louisiana
    --
    33
    Pretty much
    1985 ATC 350X working progress
    1983 ATC 200X for sale

  9. #9
    JustEnough's Avatar
    JustEnough is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Elk Grove, CA
    --
    333
    Here is a great document to make sure your carburetor matches your engine and what the stock settings are. The carb model number is stamped on the side of the carb body near the seam where the bowl mates to the carb body:

    http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/...bfc676cd_b.jpg

    So if you have the original PD85A carb on your 83 185S you would gently and slowly turn the idle screw in clockwise until it stops then turn it back out 1 turn and adjust from there. I have found that if the carb is in good shape, adjusting to what is shown on the carb chart makes carburetion spot on.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97
    Thanks for the info JustEnough

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    --
    97
    JustEnough, would you happen to have pg 82? I am interested in reading the rest of the carb setup information.

    Thanks!

    Also, it is really running much less Fumey now guys! I appreciate the info/help.

  12. #12
    JustEnough's Avatar
    JustEnough is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Elk Grove, CA
    --
    333
    I do not know where the carb chart came from, but there is some good carb info in the manual:

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...ice_Manual.pdf

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //