GM Pickup Cab mount bolts.....

[Scootertrash]

99 Silverado 2500 Ext Cab 3 door 4X4 6.0 New body style, not the "Classic" style

Need to remove the cab mount bolts to replace rusty BRAKE LINES. Seems like the nut or bolt head is turning inside the frame/cab

The very front one by the radiator is no problem for access, however with the one under the drivers compartment the nut seems to be turning inside the channel under the cab.

I'm going out right now to try turning the bolt some more to be sure that this is the case. I have yet to try the mid cab and rear cab bolts.

Have any of you mechanics dealt with this problem before? What was your solution? I'm not afraid to cut some holes in the cab floor if neccesary, but it would be nice if there was a fairly accurate way to measure out the location for the hole inside the cab.

Yes, I've used Google and found some info, but it's all for newer trucks.

I will update the OP shortly.

Thanks Guys!

[Scootertrash]

NM, mission accomplished

[briano]

Why would you remove the cab bolts to replace brake lines? Go to the parts store and get a roll of brake line, the end nuts that you need and a flaring tool. Bend the line to fit. Easy as pie. While you are doing the job, replace all your lines. Where they are grouped up under the driver side floor, I'm sure they will fall right apart.

[Scootertrash]

Because the clips are too close to the body to get the lines out of the clips. I would like to reuse the clips since they to a fantastic job of holding the lines in place.

Here's more of the story, condensed:

GM had issues with rusting brake lines in 99-06 (?) They made a pre-bent line kit to replace all the lines, I can get the kit for 60.00. The TSB instructions say to raise the cab approx 2 inches on the left side of the truck. Raising the cab made all the difference. I have great access now to feed the new lines to the ABS box.

If I were to go the route you are talking:

20 ft roll of brake line Approx 26.00
10 fittings Approx 10.00
Flare tool Approx 26.00

So I'm already at 56.00, unless one of the auto parts stores rents out a flaring tool.

In my 40 plus years of wrenching I've bent more than my fair share of brake lines and AFAIC, it sux (No offense intended)

In addition, so far neither of the front bleeder screws are coming loose (naturally) so rather than spend all the time to dik around drilling out busted bleeder screws, I will be buying new front calipers, as well as the rears if I run into the same problem.

I've had the truck for 5 years or so, I have no clue how old the calipers are. So when I am done my brake system (except the ABS box unless I can't get the flare nuts loose on that) will be brand new. I should have no worries other than pads for quite some time.

The amount of money I'm saving from taking it to a shop is more than worth the 1/2 hour or so I spent busting loose the cab bolts.

Unless I need the ABS box, I should be able to get by for around 350.00 using rebuilt calipers. ABS box if I need one is 300ish. I'm good with that.

Thanks for the suggestion tho!