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Thread: Replacing 350x countershaft seal

  1. #31
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    5th seal is a failure too


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  2. #32
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    5 seal failures upon installation ??

    I wish I could watch you install it to help future generations

    J/K; But whatever you're doing, do the opposite. The O'D' coat of rubber is trying to "ball off"....
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  3. #33
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Ive changed seals in other machines with no issues. I dont think the aftermarket seal size with the same dimensions as OEM is actually the correct size

  4. #34
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    Is there a burr or sharp edge on the case where the seal slides in.
    250r rules

  5. #35
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    No, I checked multiple times and like I said, I took a round chainsaw file and smoithed out the edge of the case where the seal starts to slide in to make sure it was smooth.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DDQ View Post
    No, I checked multiple times and like I said, I took a round chainsaw file and smoithed out the edge of the case where the seal starts to slide in to make sure it was smooth.
    Read through this whole thread again. I would try and find an OEM seal. That aftermarket seal may be off 1mm ID/OD...doesn't take much. Get another aftermarket and see if you can get an OEM one and then compare the two.
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  7. #37
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    I'm pretty sure OEM is discontinued and I can't even see it listed on Babbitt's oem parts fiche either.

    I'm going to say the aftermarket seal is to blame. Wrong size

    I've received good aftermarket seals from Tusk as they were repackaged SKF brand. Maybe they carry one for 350X or you could look up the size and type from an SKF distributor.

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    Last edited by ironchop; 11-15-2017 at 02:59 PM.

  8. #38
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    If all of these 22x35x8 seals keep getting the rubber scrubbed off on installation, and you know how to install a seal, then it's obviously too big. If you're going to keep on buying the same size seal, and have the same results, why not try a 22x34x8, and see how that goes?
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  9. #39
    AMK's Avatar
    AMK is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Alan



    1985 350x
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  10. #40
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    I have a couple of Japan seals that I myself used in the 452X (not done yet), in those sizes but 7mm wide instead of 8. I've used these people forever and never an issue.

    To be completely honest, allot of seals I'll put semi-hard flexible Permatex on the O.D. of the seal and 90% of them push in with my 2 thumbs....
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  11. #41
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I used a 'bit' more heat on the case and got tonights frozen seal in the best out of any so far. I am going to keep a careful eye on it and give it a shot.


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  12. #42
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    I like to use a 8-10mm wrench. I take a screwdriver and make a slot near the shaft. then insert the wrench and pry it out. works every time and NO damage to anything!!!
    good luck!!!
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  13. #43
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    to install.
    take some 400grit sand paper and sand down the shaft case hole slowly. take some carb cleaner spray a shop towel and use it to clean the hole. next take some Hondabond and put a thin coating on the outside of the seal. this does 2 things.
    1- seals up and unleveled spots around the seal
    2- helps the seal slide in easier

    when done, use a papertowel and whipe off extra around the seal and your done.
    also those cheap ebay seals are the incorrect sizes. the places selling them are selling you slightly larger sizes via US sizing not the metric proper sizing.
    I have 350X seal kits that I sell that have exact sized seals all of them including the inner case seal and the crank and countershaft seals. all seals are made with modern rubber and better than OEM. so you can order a kit if you need one for future. they are in the company store. I make $9 off each sale so it costs quite a bit for the correct parts but it is totally worth it! I do it because I love helping fellow trikers.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  14. #44
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Well that certainly helps. Thank you for the reply.

    Unfortunately I took this bike out for the first test ride this morning and it feels like 2nd gear is damaged because it is skipping and not staying engaged. I am going to start the process of splitting the cases this week.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by DDQ View Post
    I used a 'bit' more heat on the case and got tonights frozen seal in the best out of any so far. I am going to keep a careful eye on it and give it a shot.


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    In your picture:

    Am I crazy or can a see a big burr/ding pushing into the ID of that left side stator cover countershaft bore. It is almost at 12 o clock, maybe 11:50 o clock.

    And its right where your roll back is on this installation.

    Looks like you don't have a nice smooth outer beveled edge on there, I clean that chit smooth with my Dremel, carefully.

    I have the seal I use for that in stock like 10$ shipped, which is mainly just for my time...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

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