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Thread: Synthetic Two Stroke Oil Warning

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Planning on using that same Valvoline in the rest of the motors that were manufactured in the 80's. It is on the shelf now.
    I ran Valvoline in my 250r for years before I pulled it apart to put a new piston in it and it looked brand new inside. Actually, its still oem crank and bearings on mostly Valvoline oil all it's life. When I swtiched to the ESR 310 I ran Klotz Benol, and noticed no difference in wear.

    I ran Bel-Ray MC1 in my Banshee's and it's a semi synthetic that I really like and have had no issues with.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by glamy View Post
    I still use MC-1 @ 50;1 if i can find it it`s getting scarce.........it`s dry as a bone here has`nt rained since last March
    I've got 4 bottles left from a case my old man bought me 20 years ago.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  3. #33
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    I run Shell Rotella T 15w-40 in the crankcase and Klotz Snowmobile Techniplate TC-W3 with Non ethanol 93 octane in my R. Its claimed to be a storage oil sense a sled usually sets for months unused. Best part is the famous klots smell and zero exhaust smoke after warm up. If it was gonna set for along time Id find some kind of engine fog just for piece of mind and maybe kick it over every once in awhile to keep it moving.
    "I'm Kind Of Like The Turtle Man Of 3Wheelers."

    1986 Honda 350X
    1985 Honda 250R
    1985 Honda 200X

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    What about switching back to non-sythetic from full synthetic oil in a daily driven v-6 automobile engine, yeah, i put it in my truck too. Forehead palm smack.

    Kind of a different subject but probably some wondering same thing since we all gotta have a four tire money pit thing to get around anywhere.
    Thankful i didn't put it in the Cummins.
    I myself don't believe that there is any issue switching back and forth between mineral and synthetic automotive engine oil. I have heard the old wives tails about how you can't go back to mineral if you've run synthetic and I believe it to be 100% hogwash. Wanna know why?? They sell synthetic blend motor oil. If they transformed into some engine killing substance when combined, then why is blended AKA semi-synthetic motor oil sold at every parts store?? I've never gotten into all the hype for synthetic in my vehicles. My main concern is using the correct weight and changing it at proper intervals.
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

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  5. #35
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    How about 10000 mile oil changes with the "miracle" of synthetic oils? OK, lets just assume that the oil itself does hold up for more hours/miles... But you still get all of the contaminants generated by the engine. You know, all that stuff that gets used oil labeled as carcinogenic and must be transported as hazardous material.

    IMHO, synthetic=scam for the most part.
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

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  6. #36
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Or install a bypass filter.

    Group IV and Group V oil have the highest shear resistance and for all intents and purposes are basically shear free. Group III Synthetic can contain as little as around 20% Group IV and/or Group V oil and still legally be called synthetic. The remainder is non synthetic oil which requires friction modifiers to make it a multi viscosity oil. These these friction modifiers are basically tiny strands of polymer which literally get cut into smaller pieces by the engine which then reduces their ability to make the oil multi viscosity at which point it becomes a lower viscosity oil more similar to a single weight oil. All additives used in engine oil are mixed with conventional oil for the carrier, therefore, there is no true 100% synthetic oil made for vehicle engines.


    PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIDE-RED 250r View Post
    How about 10000 mile oil changes with the "miracle" of synthetic oils? OK, lets just assume that the oil itself does hold up for more hours/miles... But you still get all of the contaminants generated by the engine. You know, all that stuff that gets used oil labeled as carcinogenic and must be transported as hazardous material.

    IMHO, synthetic=scam for the most part.
    I think BWW recommends 20,000 on the Mini Cooper.

    My wife’s old Mercedes was 10,000 miles, but consider that the German stuff uses large gauze oil filters with large surface areas and in some cases over 8 liters of oil. Amazingly the wife’s oil was hardly cloudy until it had over 8,000 miles on it.

    Personaly I think the biggest reason that oil changes have been extended is fuel injection. Lot less fuel contamination compacted to any carbureted engine.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    I think BWW recommends 20,000 on the Mini Cooper.

    My wife’s old Mercedes was 10,000 miles, but consider that the German stuff uses large gauze oil filters with large surface areas and in some cases over 8 liters of oil. Amazingly the wife’s oil was hardly cloudy until it had over 8,000 miles on it.

    Personaly I think the biggest reason that oil changes have been extended is fuel injection. Lot less fuel contamination compacted to any carbureted engine.
    See now that is a little different. If the engine manufacturers are making the engines themselves more capable of going longer between service that is the true game changer. Higher oil capacity does it's share to help in the idea too.

    I remember when I was still trucking for a living, my brother in law drove for another company who adopted the policy of synthetic oil and 60k mile oil change schedules.... that's 60,000 miles, I didn't typo. My company was still doing it "old school" with conventional oil and 20k service intervals. He had more engine trouble with his 250k mile truck than I did with my 900k mile truck. I know it's a small test sample but I found it interesting regardless.

    The synthetic oil makers have to claim SOME kind of advantage over conventional to justify the higher price... longer engine life (assuming it's true) is something that 90% of real-world people will never personally find to be true or not as most people don't keep their vehicles that long.
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

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  9. #39
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    Must remember that auto manufacturers really only make cars to last around the 100k miles mark. That is mileage that MOST (not all) people trade them in or sell for the latest and greatest or whatever reason. A car that has its oil changed every 7500-10000 will hit this mark or even a little further. But will it go 250-700k miles???! doubtful imo compared to one that has its oil changed to every 3000 to 5000 miles. Then there is the one size fits all 0w20 viscosity recommendation straight across the board which is a load of BS!!

    There is alot of shiz going on in the auto industry right now with heavy government politcs and EPA forces ruining the possible longevity of cars. New cars today are like appliances, pop the hood and plastic and electronics everywhere! Must remember that the auto companies don't want you to keep that vehicle for 20 plus years, they want you to buy another one for more $$$ to their bottom line sales.
    4 Strokes are NOT the wave of the future!

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3Razors View Post
    Must remember that auto manufacturers really only make cars to last around the 100k miles mark. That is mileage that MOST (not all) people trade them in or sell for the latest and greatest or whatever reason. A car that has its oil changed every 7500-10000 will hit this mark or even a little further. But will it go 250-700k miles???! doubtful imo compared to one that has its oil changed to every 3000 to 5000 miles. Then there is the one size fits all 0w20 viscosity recommendation straight across the board which is a load of BS!!

    There is alot of shiz going on in the auto industry right now with heavy government politcs and EPA forces ruining the possible longevity of cars. New cars today are like appliances, pop the hood and plastic and electronics everywhere! Must remember that the auto companies don't want you to keep that vehicle for 20 plus years, they want you to buy another one for more $$$ to their bottom line sales.
    That's many of the reasons why my main squeeze is a 40 year old Chevy. No idea on what the mileage is, it only has a 5-digit odometer

    But I have to be honest, it's only my daily driver in the non-winter months up here in snow country.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 13716196_1223635587668297_431710998396506473_n.jpg  
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

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  11. #41
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    For those that don't know this, the main difference between conventional (non synthetic) and synthetic (non conventional I suppose) oil is the uniformity in the size of the molecules. In short, the molecules are like tiny ball bearings. The molecules in conventional oil vary in size meaning that there will be several different size molecules within ever bottle of oil. The molecules in every bottle of "full synthetic" oil would be the same size if it did not have any additives in it but since it has additives are blended with conventional oil as the carrier, and the molecules in conventional oil are not all the same size, even "fully" synthetic oil does not have all the same size molecules but since the percentage of additives is never more than around 20%, at least 80% of the molecules in "full synthetic" oil are the same size.

    Since not every molecule in conventional oil is a different size, it too would have some of the characteristics of "full synthetic" oil, however, there are no tests posted of the percentage of molecules in conventional oil that are the same size. Since the molecules function similar to ball bearings, the parts ride on the larger molecules (ball bearings) thereby rendering the smaller molecules ineffective to some degree. In general, the more ball bearings that are between 2 opposing surfaces, the less force it takes for these surfaces to slide past each other which means there will also be less friction between them. This is the main reason that engines get better mileage with "full synthetic" oil then they do with a conventional oil of the same viscosity.

    In theory, if the additive packages and viscosities of a conventional oil and a full synthetic oil are exactly the same, the engine that uses full synthetic will last longer and get better mileage.

    For those of you whom may have an oil fetish like I do, you can get a ton of info from the site below.

    https://bobistheoilguy.com/


    If you want to have your oil tested to determine it's overall condition and monitor the rate of wear on your engine, you can have it done at a lab. The one below is used by many people. This applies to transmission oil as well.

    https://www.blackstone-labs.com/


    Damn, all this talk about oil has got me all lathered up now. Think I'm gonna have to grab the Wesson and the wife and test out its friction reducing properties.

    Below is a spreadsheet one person did of his oil tests so you can see the info the lab provides.

    This has been a public service announcement.






    PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :

  12. #42
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    Apr 2011
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    On the topic of the longevity of vehicals...

    How many stock and otherwise road worthy vehicals are you personaly aware of that suffered a mechanical engine failure prior to 100,000 miles? I can only think of a couple and they both relate to human error.

    When I was flipping trucks I came across many that had over (converting KM to miles here) 200,000 miles and ran great. I even drove a 1987 4 cylinder Ranger from Canada to Mexico that showed 540,000KM on the ticker. That’s like 330,000 miles. I have no way to know how many engines it went through, but not a single wire was out of place and none of the nuts looked like they’d seen wrenches. It hummed and rattled pretty good, but used less than half a quart of oil on the 2,200 mike trip.

    I guess what I’m trying to say is it’s been my experience that most vehicles are ending up at the wreckers due to crash damage and chatastrofic electronics failure more so than worn out mechanical engine parts.

    Vehicals referring to cars and trucks. 4 stroke bikes are another story LOL!

  13. #43
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    Ford Ranger, practically indestructible little trucks..and this coming from a GM man! LOL!
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

    If you have bought from me or sold to me, please leave me feedback here>>> http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+RIDE-RED+250r

  14. #44
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    One has to love the spare time that comes along with a four day weekend.

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  15. #45
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    Very nice, I started using maxima K2 this year mostly from reading the bottle says it has extra rust protection? runs good but 927 smells better.

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