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Thread: You guys' opinion on carb rebuild kits?

  1. #1
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    You guys' opinion on carb rebuild kits?

    Do any of you guys ever use carb rebuild kits? If so, how do they work? Are they good? are they crap?

    I read a thread on here that said you can use a carb kit that can be bought for about $20 off of Dennis Kirk's website.

    It also said that you can buy the carb kit for the timberwolf 250 or something, and it will have most of the right stuff for a carb for the Yamaha 225DX, except for a couple of jets (like main and pilot I think)

    Any of you ever tried this?

    I doubt I will do this.

    I am trying to buy a GOOD condition carb from a GOOD running / idling 225DX off of eBay.

    Unless of course, someone HERE has one for sale

    Markings for a 225DX carb should be: "29U 00" (found on the neck, where the intake connects)

  2. #2
    JustEnough's Avatar
    JustEnough is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I recommend that you disassemble and clean the parts to see what needs to be replaced. I use hot water and laundry soap and will go back at it with vinegar if necessary. Most carbs work fantastic when clean and adjusted. Some have damaged parts that are not included in a rebuild kit.
    Last edited by JustEnough; 11-30-2017 at 11:15 PM. Reason: grammar

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustEnough View Post
    I recommend that you disassemble and clean the parts to see what needs to replaced. I use hot water and laundry soap and will go back at it with vinegar if necessary. Most carbs work fantastic when clean and adjusted. Some have damaged parts that are not included in a rebuild kit.
    How do you tell if the carb itself is damaged though? Look for pitting inside, where the jets etc. go?

  4. #4
    JustEnough's Avatar
    JustEnough is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Show stoppers are damaged slide or carb body. I have seen this a few times where the slide was seized in the carb body from corrosion and PO tried to fix it by prying them loose. Sometimes the corrosion is so bad in the floatbowl that the carb is not rebuildable. If the float needle is still smooth and the jets can be cleaned, usually a cleaning will do the trick.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by glamy View Post
    OOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhh Matt and JustEnough ........... soap really ? ......... ......did you drop da soap JustEnough ?..........Mattt348 .....it`s wheelie ....wheelie scary ! ......Order the rebuild kit ..........when you get it look at the parts (stop playing with yourself emkay) ....take carb off the bike ........drop the bowl ........soak carb in carb cleaner !!!!! .......lite a cig . .........disassemble each part to be replaced .....spray cleaner into every orifice and make sure everything is .......CLEAN .......Matt348 ......get the foogen manual off dee internet Matt348 ........tune carb per spec . in manual ..........stop being such a punk ..........it`s called fighting your way out of a wet paper bag .....Matt348 ........or call Doug7865 for a good time ......JustEnough .....for what ? ....the city ?...........and boy it`s not so pretty !!
    But, but , but Glam Master G, isn’t carb cleaner too harsh for a bowl???? I thought rubbing alcohol and salt was the rock solid method to get gunk out of a bowl and ensure a clean smooth burn every time you fire up?

  6. #6
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    Here's my routine, which I have done countless times:

    1. Buy a $20 Moose (or similar brand) rebuild kit from the internet
    2. Throw the jets in the trash. They are Chinese junk.
    Note: Each kit is put together for a handful of machines, so several pieces will not be applicable to your unit.
    3. Now tear down your carb and clean every single piece. You may use carb cleaner and a toothbrush. I use LA's Totally Awesome or WD40 in my ultrasonic cleaner.
    4. Blow out all orifices with compressed air. Clean everything again 2-3 times. When you think everything is perfect, clean one last time. Reblow with air.
    5. Your float bowl gasket will be deformed from years of fuel. Set it in the warm sun for several hours. It will shrink back down for re-use.
    6. Find the smallest rubber o-ring washer in the rebuild kit. That is the only part you will need from the kit. Install it now.
    7. Reassemble the rest of your carb with all the OEM Keihin parts (for Honda) that you have cleaned.
    8. Now take your complete new rebuild kit (minus the tiny o-ring you needed) and put it in a box in your garage.
    9. Eventually, that box will become full of 95% complete carb rebuild kits. You will never use any of these parts.
    10. Never throw that box away. Someone may "need" those parts someday.

  7. #7
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    Based on the lack of “likes” on this post I have to assume very few readers have purchased carb rebuilding kits. I keep mine next to my stuck thermostat collection

  8. #8
    Scootertrash's Avatar
    Scootertrash is offline Just Too Addicted: Protecting Our Community The day begins with 3WW
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    Aside from buying OEM , I've had good luck with Shindy kits which IIRC are manufactured in Japan.

    YMMV
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  9. #9
    TexFest's Avatar
    TexFest is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    i use shindy kits
    TPC 450R

  10. #10
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    I also use Shindy kits. Yes I've bought them for a Timberwolf and used them on my 225DR.

  11. #11
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    Sometimes I cannot get the correct fuel screw thread pitch for certain models. I think it's the 200X that has this issue bet I'm stuck with a couple of useless fuel screws.

    I like to replace those screws that DON'T get lightly bottomed and then adjusted to tune...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    I also use Shindy kits. Yes I've bought them for a Timberwolf and used them on my 225DR.
    What year of Timberwolf does the kit have to be for?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    Here kid. Buy this fkn carb already. https://m.ebay.com/itm/ATV-Quad-Carb...IAAOSwq1NZfxqQ
    My friend bought that cheap chinese POS carb for his 225 DX and it runs like CRAP.

    He had issues with the fuel inlet being the wrong size, issues with the throttle cable, issues with choke not fitting, etc.

    And if you look this carb up on Amazon the reviews SUCK, and people are saying the same things I just said.

    Thanks anyways though.

    Man I would pay $100 - $125 for a GOOD condition 225DX carb from a GOOD running bike (and I mean a GOOD running bike.... it is amazing what some peoples' interpretation of "good running" is
    Last edited by mattb348; 12-01-2017 at 02:37 PM.

  14. #14
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    I’ve used a Timberwolf kit also. I only needed a few pieces out of it really. So they work.

    The 225dx i found is one carb you can’t just get a cheap Chinese replacement and bolt it on and go. That’s why when i go to the junkyards i snag them off the bunch of Moto-4’s they have there. Same carb, same air box, etc. So i have a couple of ones that would need rebuilt if need be.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    The carb I posted is perfect.
    For a 225DX it is perfect???

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