I attached the diagram for the 85 model. Not many wires on that lil guy. I guess those years (1983-1985) didn’t have any lights?
From your pics:
Black wire = pulsed AC output of stator from outer rotor type alternator. (which then goes to the ignition coil)
Green wire = ground wire from stator which connects to neutral safety switch
White/Red stripe wire = neutral safety switch (which then connects to ground when in neutral)
Anyways, If you ground the stator directly to the bolt like shown, I think you would eliminate the neutral safety from the circuit. I think the dark green from the stator should be wired to the white/red wire from the neutral safety switch with an inline connector not attached to the frame. Then, when it is in neutral, the safety switch completes the ground path. (you can check the operation of the neutral safety by doing a simple continuity test with the red/white wire and a ground point. In neutral = continuous, in gear = not continuous) While you're at it, I would check all the grounds in the system to make sure they work properly. this includes the kill switch and grounds on ignition coil. All grounds should link with the ol continuity test. A lot of times, no spark is simply a kill switch prob (kill switch output wire should only go to ground when in "off" position.)
Check the black wire off the stator for an AC output with a multi-meter when you pullstart it. If you have something there, move on to the coil then plug... if not, pull the flywheel and check the windings on the stator for continuity and connectivity with the black wire output that goes to the coil. Usually its just a loose wire connection or solder joint on the stator which is essentially just a bunch of loops of wire. At this point you could choose to replace the stator, just make sure you replace it with the proper 2 wire stator for your year.
Let us know how it goes.. hope this helps.
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Last edited by Black_Widow; 12-23-2017 at 03:34 PM.
1983 ATC 110
1983 ATC 110
1984 ATC 125m
2003 CRF 450R
2015 Suzuki M109R