Also the idler gear bushing has some play. Does it need replacing?
https://youtu.be/4JboIOJJnps
WOW.
You must be REALLY aggravated at this point. I know I would be.
A tap that size and type is going to be prohibitively expensive not to mention it will probably have too much lead without cutting it down in order to retap threads that shallow. You could tack weld a nut on the flywheel snout and run a bolt in it to get the flywheel off the crank. Can you fit a claw type puller in there between the case and the edge of the flywheel to get behind it maybe?
That's all I got.
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Last edited by ironchop; 01-30-2018 at 10:59 PM.
Yeah it's open season since you're replacing both those parts anyway
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I’m not sure if its 18 or 20mm to pull the flywheel? Maybe the swingarm bolt threads? Just saying you wont need much pressure. Snug a bolt in there if you can and tap the flywheel around the edge gently. Maybe she’ll pop off for you?
Just a thought.
It would be tough to cut the flywheel
Shep
Maybe heat the snout with a propane or mapp torch if you have one and that may help on top of what Shep said
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The cases are split but I only found very slight damage to two gear teeth. Not enough for me to think it was the cause of 2nd gear to slip bad during acceleration. The only other clue I have is that the counter shaft at the front sprocket would slide in and out of the case about 1/2" when the motor was together. The c-clip is in the grove on the other end of that shaft, though.
1) are these two gears damaged enough to need replacing?
2) are the shift forks in good shape?
3) what could have caused the countershaft to have so much side to side movement?
The manual indicates a tolerance for thickness of the claw but it does not say where to measure the thickness. That is confusing since the fork tapers.
The pad at the bottom of the “u” is the wear point.
Shep