I cannot make these run!!

[Scootertrash]

This may have already been tried, but I keep a spray bottle of gas/oil mixture of 40:1, which covers any machine I have here, for the occasions when I can't get an engine to fire or run. I spray a squirt or two into the carb while holding the throttle open and then try starting the engine. If that works I try to keep the machine running by spraying small spritzes of the mixture into the carb.

It's a pretty simple basic tactic, but it verifies if it's a fuel delivery issue.

YMMV

[tripledog]

I use only non ethanol fuel in all of my 2 stroke engines. The only problem I have had with my trimmers and saws is buildup of gunk between the flywheel and pick up coil, creating a no spark situation. I remove the pickup coil, clean it and the flywheel magnets with rubbing alcohol, and use a business card to set the air gap upon reinstalling the pickup coil. I also use only Tygon fuel lines, as they seem to stay flexible instead of hardening and cracking.

[mendoAu]

.............Husqvarna.............and use 2cycle before storing. When it starts smoking like hell shut it down and then drain it when you're ready to use it again.

[ps2fixer]

I'm probably opening a can of worms, but some of the best 2 stroke tools I've found has been Dolmar and Makita (same company). Dolmar was the first company to make a gas powered chainsaw. It was a German company but Makita (Japanese) bought though out. 90%+ of their chain saws are still made in Germany. They use Maul cylinders, Zama (yes chinese built, owned by Stihl) carb. Their electric chainsaws are known to be one of the best balances between power vs chain speed/cut speed, never had one so can't really comment much on the electric though.

My dad ran Stihl for years, bought a new saw and had all kinds of problems. By the time he got things sorted out he came across a Makita 6401 professional chainsaw for $300 used. The thing was about 2 times faster than the 041 super. If you read up on porting these, you have to be super careful because they are already well built from the factory and there isn't much room for improvement. Even just removing the base gasket can require the top of the piston to be modded to make it not hit the top of the head. My dad's getting into porting them now, so interesting to see.

Here's the basics of the model numbers.

xx = home owner, some are china built, pretty much don't bother with
xxx = farm use, normally quite well built
xxxx = professional use, basically the best of the best that they make

First two numbers are the CC of the engine, as in 6401 is 64cc and it's professional grade.

If you have problems with pull starts, get one with the easy start system, it's completely nuts how easy it is to start warm. Cold you have to choke it etc and takes 2-3 pulls unless you know the saw well. There's a youtube video of a 9 year old & 7 year old girl starting a 61cc saw (warm). If you can just pull it past compression stroke, it starts, no fast pulling needed.

Also, do some reading on the chain saws you're trying to fix. Modern ones have an hour rating on them. Home/farm is 50hr, professional is 300hr.

Here's a couple of youtube videos to showcase the easy start lol. The non-easy starts are not bad, you just have to actually spin the engine over fast enough to run it. They are super easy to flood, they don't always fire after 3 pulls choked, after 3 pulls always push the choke off and generally it starts next pull or two. Never had to pull more than 6 times to start any of mine except my super old Sachs-Dolmar 133 (85c 1979-1887), but I'm slowly going though it fixing it up.

42cc farm use saw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2Jv9I1jGkk

61cc pro saw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkPCmFhGAMc

The husqvarna saws are just a poland unless it's the professional series, so if you ever run that brand, only settle for the professional saw, other wise just run a cheap McCulloch, Poulan/PoulanPro, WeedEater, or Jonsered, they are all made by the same factory with different plastics/styling and minor differences saw to saw. The pro saws seem to run well, but they are high chain speed with less torque, stihl seems to be higher torque but lower chain speed, and dolmar/makita are a well balanced with high torque while also having a matching chain speed.

Not trying to start a war or anything, just trying to stick to the facts. I'm a sucker for Honda for small engines and Toyota/Lexus for cars/trucks too. My dad's had good experience with an Echo weed wacker, but he hasn't used it for all that long, so can't really say much for longevity, but seems to have nice power. He got a 2nd one used and put a brush saw blade on it to clear out some brush out, 21cc and it cuts better than the 31cc engine i used before (Ryobi & Bolens).

[fabiodriven]

I'm probably opening a can of worms, but some of the best 2 stroke tools I've found has been Dolmar and Makita (same company). Dolmar was the first company to make a gas powered chainsaw. It was a German company but Makita (Japanese) bought though out. 90%+ of their chain saws are still made in Germany. They use Maul cylinders, Zama (yes chinese built, owned by Stihl) carb. Their electric chainsaws are known to be one of the best balances between power vs chain speed/cut speed, never had one so can't really comment much on the electric though.

My dad ran Stihl for years, bought a new saw and had all kinds of problems. By the time he got things sorted out he came across a Makita 6401 professional chainsaw for $300 used. The thing was about 2 times faster than the 041 super. If you read up on porting these, you have to be super careful because they are already well built from the factory and there isn't much room for improvement. Even just removing the base gasket can require the top of the piston to be modded to make it not hit the top of the head. My dad's getting into porting them now, so interesting to see.

Here's the basics of the model numbers.

xx = home owner, some are china built, pretty much don't bother with
xxx = farm use, normally quite well built
xxxx = professional use, basically the best of the best that they make

First two numbers are the CC of the engine, as in 6401 is 64cc and it's professional grade.

If you have problems with pull starts, get one with the easy start system, it's completely nuts how easy it is to start warm. Cold you have to choke it etc and takes 2-3 pulls unless you know the saw well. There's a youtube video of a 9 year old & 7 year old girl starting a 61cc saw (warm). If you can just pull it past compression stroke, it starts, no fast pulling needed.

Also, do some reading on the chain saws you're trying to fix. Modern ones have an hour rating on them. Home/farm is 50hr, professional is 300hr.

Here's a couple of youtube videos to showcase the easy start lol. The non-easy starts are not bad, you just have to actually spin the engine over fast enough to run it. They are super easy to flood, they don't always fire after 3 pulls choked, after 3 pulls always push the choke off and generally it starts next pull or two. Never had to pull more than 6 times to start any of mine except my super old Sachs-Dolmar 133 (85c 1979-1887), but I'm slowly going though it fixing it up.

42cc farm use saw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2Jv9I1jGkk

61cc pro saw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkPCmFhGAMc

The husqvarna saws are just a poland unless it's the professional series, so if you ever run that brand, only settle for the professional saw, other wise just run a cheap McCulloch, Poulan/PoulanPro, WeedEater, or Jonsered, they are all made by the same factory with different plastics/styling and minor differences saw to saw. The pro saws seem to run well, but they are high chain speed with less torque, stihl seems to be higher torque but lower chain speed, and dolmar/makita are a well balanced with high torque while also having a matching chain speed.

Not trying to start a war or anything, just trying to stick to the facts. I'm a sucker for Honda for small engines and Toyota/Lexus for cars/trucks too. My dad's had good experience with an Echo weed wacker, but he hasn't used it for all that long, so can't really say much for longevity, but seems to have nice power. He got a 2nd one used and put a brush saw blade on it to clear out some brush out, 21cc and it cuts better than the 31cc engine i used before (Ryobi & Bolens).

Very good post and I agree with very much of it. I used Just Ben's Makita gas saw this past year and I'd never seen one previous. I didn't even know they existed. It ran and worked great! What a fantastic saw!

Also, you mentioned flooding. That's something so many people have difficulties with whether it be a 500cc two stroke or a 40cc two stroke. Two strokes flood very easily, but they also clear very easily as well. It's the simplest thing in the world, I learned it on a group ride in Jr high when my IT flooded and wouldn't start. I always had that problem with it. All the other riders were running and ready to roll but my IT wouldn't start because it was flooded. The leader of the ride was yelling over the group of running bikes so I could hear, "Hold the throttle wide open!" This went against everything I thought I knew, but I did it, and the bike started right up. That stuck with me from that day on and I'm always amazed at how many people are afraid to take that advice when a vehicle is flooded, even though I was afraid to take that advice the first time as well.

The smaller the engine, the easier they flood. Just as stated, if you've pulled it enough with the choke on to know that the engine has fuel, try clearing it. Try no choke or no choke with WOT if necessary. If fuel is your issue, it's either going to be an abundance of it or not enough.

I am going to take issue with what was said in regards to a homeowner's Husky saw being "just a Poulin", that is incorrect. Husqvarna did buy Poulin, this is true, but Poulin is not making their regular old disposable Walmart saws labeled as Huskies. This is a very misleading statement because everyone knows that Poulin makes absolute garbage saws, I'm sure we can all agree on that. I could take a Poulin saw and bend the bar in half if I wanted to. Every single aspect of those saws is junk, even the pull starts sound ready to break new out of the box. So no, if you buy a homeowner Husky saw, you are not buying a relabeled Poulin. As I said, I've had my 435 for years now and it has been a great saw. It doesn't have a bar I could bend in half, it doesn't have an awful pull start that's ready to break right out of the box, and it's run great for many, many years now, something a Poulin will not do. We've all had the father in laws or neighbors who went down to Walmart and bought a Poulin "Wild Thing" or "Predator", and we all know you might get through a tree or two, five at the most, and that saw has had it. There is no working on it to fix it or improving upon it, it's a disposable saw. I've never seen anyone pull out their Poulin they've had for a few years and start cutting. Every one I've seen has come brand new out of the box and ends up in the trash mere months later. That is not at all what you see with Husky saws.

So no, a homeowner grade Husky is not a Poulin saw.

[ps2fixer]

Ironically, based on a chain saw builder we met (bought some Dolmars from him but his main business is rebuilding stihls), he mention the "Wild Thing" Poland from the 90's was one of their best built home owner saws. My dad has one, 42cc I think and it still runs fine. I didn't say the Husky's are unreliable, but the machining/quality seems to be a huge step down vs the professional line. Also some parts do interchange. A lot of the newer saws (don't remember which brand or both) are starting to run plastic oil pump gears. Mikita are all metal yet to my knowledge, besides that, nearly all of them have an oil pump that's adjustable and you can make them really oil. The stihl's seem to starve the bar of oil, but then again, that's related to the problems my dad had with the new saw.

For example part number 577831101 is a piston + cyl kit for Husqvarna 240 and 235 saws. If you look at the notes, it replaces part numbers 574291001, 545050418 and 545050417

574291001 is also listed as Husqvarna, same interchange list as the above part number
545050418 is listed as a Jonsered part number for the CS2234 saws
545050417 is also listed for Jonsered

Another example... part number 577831101 is a piston kit. It's for a Craftsman chain saw & husqvarna 235 & 240.

Learning how to search these dealership sites better, crank shaft assembly part number 580302601 is again for 235/240, and also brings up a Red Max GZ380. Never even heard of that brand lol.

Another interesting find (just picking random models from google), crankshaft part number 504206802 is Jonsered CS2152, CS2153, and Husqvarna 346 XP/351/353. Just a note, the Husqvarna part number is the same numbers, but has a different format on the site I used, instead of 504206802 it's 5042068-02. Almost seems like they are trying to hide the fact the parts interchange between different models. NONE of the sites flat out lists both brands of saws together in the same list, they just bring up both part numbers and you have to pick which brand of saw you're looking for parts on.

One thing I don't get, if it's the same part number, why do they charge more for the Husqvarna labeled one -_-. It's almost like a Ford Mustang, some parts interchange with more "base line" cars, but the parts when looked up for the mustang application are marked up more, even though it's the same part.



Not to bsh your 435, but for giggles I looked it up too. Crank shaft assembly is used in Jonsered and Craftman saws.



I picked the piston/crank/cylinder area because that's the "heart" of the engine. Like a Honda 200cc series engine (200m, 200s, 200e, 200es, 185s, etc), they have the same basic parts, or extremely similar in design.

I'll come out and say, not all Dolmars are the greatest saw ever or anything, all brands do have bad models. Like the Toyota Tercel with auto trans are known for a plastic bushing in the trans to go bad. The 510/5100 series dolmar saws were adjusted lean to pass epa requirements, and were ment to be re-tuned before selling at the local dealers, but most didn't, so that saw is known to burn piston and cylinders up. I own a 5105, and it's a great 51cc saw, but the 6400 series (6100, 7900 are the same saw besides the top end) walks all over it. The 6100 series is also known to be a great pick, my dad has one of them, little less go than a 6400, but a lot more fuel efficient and also has larger tanks. Together my dad and I own 15 or so Dolmar/Mikita saws, it was Stihl before (I still have a MS310). We both burn wood for heat, last year we cut around 100 face cord of dead ash in about 2 weeks. Loading up the trucks was the slowest part of it lol.

[Shep1970]

I’ve gotta add to this and maybe i’ve just had good luck but fabio mentioned wild thing chainsaws so.
I have one yes its one of those green+purple one’s bought it at lowes for $129 maybe 8yrs ago.
Its been great, i’ve cleared a couple two/three acre lots with it also whenever a storm comes through it clears many a tree on our trails. Customers in the winter call me when a tree has blocked there driveway and i tell you that saw is ready to go.
Granted its small and lightweight and really is a throwaway machine but i’d buy another next time around.
Just had to add my 2-cents

Shep
Of course i may have just jinxed myself.........

[ps2fixer]

Yep sounds just like my dad's saw. It is a Poulan as in it takes a lot of pulling to get it running sometimes, but besides that once it's going it's ready to go. My dad used his along side of the Stihls, it was just a slower cutter. My dad put 20in bar on it since that's what he runs for the most part except his bigger saws. My dad was also running an OLD McCulloch too before they were made by Poulan/Husqvarna. Basically no exhaust on it (by design), loud as hell, but was always ready to go, ironically it was his most reliable saw out of the 4-6 he took with him out in the woods which included a MS310, 041 (he had like 8 of these), 041 Super, sometimes the Wild Thing. He likes to keep the saws with a nice sharp chain, so once it starts to dull, he just swaps saws to keep cutting.

Here's a random pic of the same saw my dad has had since around the 90's. If I remember right, it was $80 new.

[Shep1970]

Yes the same one ps2, the good thing is when it does crapout i’ll buy another new one at lowes put this old one back in the box and return it for refund, ha
Maybe i shouldn’t say that out loud....

Shep

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Good posts here fellas... But I take issue on the Hooskies having no torque... My 394 blowing 210psi cold begs to differ And I would take the Pepsi challenge against any 066/661 this side of a full on cant racing saw with my Tree-90-Feckin-Fo.... 36" bar buried in sugar maple are the terms



All kidding aside, they ALL make cheaper "homeowner" grade saws, and they all make fantastic professional grade saws, Hooskie, Creamsicles, Johnny-Red (which have been red/black versions of the same model Hoosky for quite a few years now, literally Chevy/GMC relationaship) Echo, and even Dolmar/Makita. I would say Dolmar/Makita probably makes the best small displacement homeowner saws. Many are split mag case construction like the bigger "pro" saws and that is a definite advantage in my opinion, the 421 being first to come to mind. I have a fair bit of trigger time with a Dolmar 6400 that belongs to my FIL and it's a darn impressive saw, especially when you consider the price he paid for it new, $600 OTD! Equivalent model Husky would be the 562XP and Stihl would be the MS362, check out the prices on THOSE if you want a little 60cc sticker shock. He liked his 6400 so much that based on my recommendation he bought a red/black Makita EA4300F (same as a Dolmar branded 421) and it has proven to be just as high quality as the 6400. Stevo, you can get a new Makita 4300 for right around $300 new. They are 42cc and well built. Tough to find a better saw than those in that size class IMHO, especially at that price range.

Anyway, some cheaper "homeowner" saws just aren't worth putting much money into when they go down as it's much easier to approach replacement cost as the repair parts list grows. Now if you aren't one to do your own work, adding labor cost closes the deal. Better off to replace it, or maybe time to consider investing in a higher end saw that will just plain last longer provided you do your part in maintaining and using it properly.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Ironically, based on a chain saw builder we met (bought some Dolmars from him but his main business is rebuilding stihls), he mention the "Wild Thing" Poland from the 90's was one of their best built home owner saws. My dad has one, 42cc I think and it still runs fine. I didn't say the Husky's are unreliable, but the machining/quality seems to be a huge step down vs the professional line. Also some parts do interchange. A lot of the newer saws (don't remember which brand or both) are starting to run plastic oil pump gears. Mikita are all metal yet to my knowledge, besides that, nearly all of them have an oil pump that's adjustable and you can make them really oil. The stihl's seem to starve the bar of oil, but then again, that's related to the problems my dad had with the new saw.

For example part number 577831101 is a piston + cyl kit for Husqvarna 240 and 235 saws. If you look at the notes, it replaces part numbers 574291001, 545050418 and 545050417

574291001 is also listed as Husqvarna, same interchange list as the above part number
545050418 is listed as a Jonsered part number for the CS2234 saws
545050417 is also listed for Jonsered

Another example... part number 577831101 is a piston kit. It's for a Craftsman chain saw & husqvarna 235 & 240.

Learning how to search these dealership sites better, crank shaft assembly part number 580302601 is again for 235/240, and also brings up a Red Max GZ380. Never even heard of that brand lol.

Another interesting find (just picking random models from google), crankshaft part number 504206802 is Jonsered CS2152, CS2153, and Husqvarna 346 XP/351/353. Just a note, the Husqvarna part number is the same numbers, but has a different format on the site I used, instead of 504206802 it's 5042068-02. Almost seems like they are trying to hide the fact the parts interchange between different models. NONE of the sites flat out lists both brands of saws together in the same list, they just bring up both part numbers and you have to pick which brand of saw you're looking for parts on.

One thing I don't get, if it's the same part number, why do they charge more for the Husqvarna labeled one -_-. It's almost like a Ford Mustang, some parts interchange with more "base line" cars, but the parts when looked up for the mustang application are marked up more, even though it's the same part.

Husky and Johnny-Red have been in a literal Chevy/GMC relationship since roughly the mid 1990's. The reason those parts you list interchange as they do is because they are twin sister models with very few differences. When comparing say a Husky 372 and a J-Red 2172 the only mechanical differences are top handle angle (about the only party that does not interchange between the pair) choke control lever, and I think that's it. The J-Red 2172 also only came in the standard air filter config where the 372 came with the heavy duty or "high-top" (as known in saw aficionado circles) filter setup. Beyond a few external mechanical/ergonomic differences and the color scheme, they are the exact same saw. Same relationship between the Husky 346xp and Johnny-Red 2152 and many other models. J-Red in fact have been continued as a brand by Husqvarna, designed and manufactured by Husqvarna since the name acquisition years back. Now things are going to get all changed up again... Most of the J-Red product line is slated to be discontinued and replaced with a handful of Redmax products. J-Red as a brand is not long for the chainsaw production industry at this time.

[Rob Canadian]

Does anyone know what chainsaw 'Leatherface' used? That thing had some POWER!!!!

[sledcrazyinCT]

Husky and Johnny-Red have been in a literal Chevy/GMC relationship since roughly the mid 1990's.J-Red as a brand is not long for the chainsaw production industry at this time.

Great comments...shame most lawn equipment these days is throw away or EPA detuned/tamperproof.

I inherited an 85 or 86 Jonsereds 820 and need to freshen it up. Seems parts for these are not easy to come by anymore.
I would love to have new top end and seals installed so it goes another 20+ years. If anyone knows of parts sources or repairs saws please let me know

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Yes Sir, that 820 is prior to the merger with Husky and a true-blue Johnny-Red. May I suggest joining the Outdoor Power Equipment forum? It's a great site for gathering parts, info and knowledge. Lots of saw nuts there, including myself. You might just get a little help locating those hard to find parts and then you never know, you just may end up porting your first saw!

Here is a link: http://opeforum.com

Also, there is a saw salvage parts outfit that may be useful to you, Chainsawr.com

[Jkoht]

Any motor other than a car should use ethanol free gas. From my outboard, to atv, to act, to saw, to trimmers, to mowers, to generators all are fed ethanol free gas. All can be started after sitting all winter too.