Are modern brake shoes cheaply made?

[Jkoht]

So far with my bike I've had to replace the shoes both front and rear every year. Usually the fronts will still have some stopping power, but the rears will be shot. I've had to do this 3 years running now, and just got another new set for year 4. I've been buying them as a set off of eBay for around $20. Are this just the really cheaply made shoes that they wear out that fast? I have seen individual shoes for $20-30 a piece, but I don't know if they are designed to work any longer. One further point, when I install the rears usually I have to grind some metal off of one of the shoes otherwise the drum won't go back on. My drum is clean and rust free, but if you try to put it on it'll hang up on the actually pad area of the shoe and not slide into place.

[HyKlas]

This is from an auto mechanic's perspective but I really don't think it makes much difference here.

Cheap brake shoes and pads are cheap, modern has nothing to do with it. Does EBC make something for your application? Is the friction material actually wearing completely away or are they just getting out of adjustment? What model machine are we talking about here? Would help me find an exploded view and see what's available...

And as far as brakes go, either they stop good or they last a long time. You can never have both.

[Jkoht]

The bike is an 83' 185s, and yes the material is wearing completely away and in some cases the material comes off of the shoe completely.

[ironchop]

My personal experience owning several kinds of trikes and quads. My dirtbikes had less weight to slow down so they don't wear as fast as ATC/ATV

Rear always wears out much faster than front.

Cheap shoes and pads don't last as long as quality stuff.

Depends on where you ride too. I've trashed a brand new set of pads down to the steel backing just riding at Trikefest for two or three days. Water/creek/ sand riding makes them wear way faster. I always bring extra sets with me if I'm at somewhere to ride for more than a day.

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[HyKlas]

Using factory shoes? I see some available for around $15-$20. Friction material coming unglued is pretty common for cheapie stuff. Keep in mind though, if the shoe material was harder it would eat your drum as well and I assume we'd rather go through shoes than drums.

[Jkoht]

When changing the shoes does anyone else have to grind the flat spot on the shoes where the lever actuated to push them on? I kinda figured for $20 they aren't going to be amazing parts, and honestly I don't mind doing the job once a year (especially after I got over the first time learning curve). I agree that I'd rather go through pads than drum, especially since I bet I'd have trouble replacing a drum.

[Jkoht]

Ok I feel silly today. I ordered shoes last week and they came in Saturday. I looked at them yesterday and they were both the same size. So I looked back over the order and it said 1983 XL185S shoes. I never knew there was an XL185s that's a motorcycle apparently. I have now ordered the correct new ones but does anyone know if these ones will work in the rear? They appear to be the right size so I'll compare when I get the correct one.

[Rob Canadian]

Yes the XL185s is a dualsport. Or on/off road bike. Not sure if it is the same size. Guessing yes.

You get what you pay for. I bought a cheapo rear caliper with cheap pads in it. 3 hours riding and they are shot. I don't use my rear brake much.

[ps2fixer]

Another thing to remember is the drum surface, if it's ruff it will eat shoes up faster. I've been caught in the cheap shoes before and had them last a day or two. I've had good luck with EBC branded shoes for lasting a lot longer. Remember, a grippier brake shoe generally means it's made of softer material, and it lasts much shorter.

I rode the snot out of a 85 250es with ebc shoes in the back at trike fest, tons of clay/mud, hills etc, and the brakes are just fine today ~4 years later.