350x lights troubleshooting

[DDQ]

Neither headlight on my 350x works. They both have new bulbs. I took AC readings at the green and yellow wire coming out of the stator and got 1.4 v at idle and 2.7 v when I rev it.
I am getting 00.7 ohms with the motor off. Is this for sure a bad stator or could it be something else?

[ps2fixer]

I'm guessing it's a dirty green/white wire you're trying to test which is for the pulse generator not the alternator. The Lighting coil alternator is White/yellow and green which is the white 2 pin connector at the engine. Test procedure from the service manual is below, this is without the engine running of course and measured in ohms.



Also the ac regulator should be 100k ohms.


If the regulator isn't working, the lights will blow nearly instantly. It's possible that your handle bar switches are not working right. Testing it would be to disconnect the 3 pin connector that goes to the main harness, and the head light connectors (white, blue, green) and test for resistance from green to green to ensure it has a good ground, white/yellow to brown for lights on (bright and dim should both show connection), white/yellow + white for dim only, and white/yellow + blue for high only.

How is the wiring in the headlight sockets, if they are corroded badly, it might not be making good connection with the headlights. Really that goes for any of the connections at the alternator of the handle bar switches.

Also, you can test the alternator + regulator together with the machine running by disconnecting the 3 pin connector that the handle bar switches plug into and read voltage from the white/yellow wire to green/ground. Should be around 13.5-14.5v AC

Here's a 350x wire diagram for reference.


Good luck with the diag work, let us know what you find.

EDIT:

Just noticed the pic, really weird the stator side is wired with different colors than the harness. Wire diagram shows green + white, so I guess the white turns very yellow with age. Based on the resistance measurement you said, it's within spec, but the voltage output is way low. With nothing else connected to it and it's not even getting 10v, I guess the stator must be bad, maybe it has an internal short draining the voltage down even though the ohm test seems about right.

Also fun fact, the 85 and 86 stator style are not interchangeable, one is slightly smaller than the other, maybe you have the smaller stator with the larger style flywheel. Correctly paired up they interchange as a set between the years. Sadly I don't know what the gap should be, but might be worth checking into.

[DDQ]

This is the flywheel I bought to use. I did not know they were different between years. If the gap was too big the bike would not run or not run well, right?
I'll check the handlebar switch after work. Thanks.

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[DDQ]

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[ps2fixer]

Try to contact the seller and find out exactly what year it came from (still could be inaccurate). I believe you have the early/85 style stator.

Here's the style of stator I've ran into the most. I think it's the 86 style (early 86's used the 85 style stator from what I've read).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC35...hahKvr&vxp=mtr

Same seller has the fly wheel listed below, so I'm assuming it's from the same machine and it looks the same as the one you have. No clue if there's a visual difference for the other style though. I hate it that people won't say what exact machine the part comes from.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC35...BahKsS&vxp=mtr

Just to make sure I wasn't grossly wrong, I double checked on partzilla and it does list 2 part numbers for both stator and flywheel, and it lists all 4 part numbers as 85 & 86 application.

If my guess/theory is right, the smaller stator in the larger flywheel would result in weak power generation from the larger gap. Kind of like adjusting the coil on a lawnmower engine to have too big of a gap. I don't have an engine around to compare what the gap should be, but I'd think it should be fairly tight, not like a 1/4 inch or anything. I think the most accurate way to measure it would be to set the stator in the flywheel so one side is touching the fly wheel, and measure the gap on the exact opposite. The centered gap would be 1/2 that measurement (as in when it's installed). Sadly I don't have accurate measuring tools nor the stators/flywheels laying around to really give hard numbers, maybe someone else can hop in on them?

[DDQ]

I think I do have an 85 wheel. I have a big ride Saturday so I ordered a flywheel that LOOKS like the later version due to bigger rivets. I hope it's right.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Honda-ATC-350...app-cvip-panel

[DDQ]

Another pic of the one on my bike now.

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[DDQ]

Here is the difference in ID of the two flywheels.

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[Dirtcrasher]

My 350X wouldn't run right forever when I made such a stupid arse mistake!

Gotta have the right flywheel.

[fabiodriven]

I knew this at one point but had forgotten about it. Thanks for the reminder.

[ps2fixer]

If you haven't installed it yet, mind taking a side by side photo of the two flywheels? That is of course if there's any visual cues to look for to tell the difference. Measuring is probably the only way to be sure though.

[DDQ]

Sorry, I alrrady installed it. The lights work now.

[ps2fixer]

Nice, atleast everything ended up being a success =)

Now you can resell the spare flywheel to recoup most of the cost of the other flywheel lol.

[HairyJR]

Sorry, I alrrady installed it. The lights work now.

DDQ glad to read you fixed your problem. To help answer fabio and ps2fixer questions thought I'd add this info....look at this thread, page 4 post #51.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...hlight=mitsuba



"HJ"

[ps2fixer]

Ahh I had them backwards, figured the newer one would be the stator with more coils but guess I was wrong. Thanks for the photos/link