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Thread: Tri z head stud removal question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Coachella Valley, Calif
    --
    124

    Tri z head stud removal question

    Newbie question...need to replace my head studs, was told I need a tool, (motion pro) brand was mentioned, others have told me I don't all I need is nuts n wrenches. I'd rather have a good tool if avail
    So if I need a tool what and where can I get it, I searched but didn't come up with anything difinitive

    Thanks
    I need all the help I can get!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,737
    https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Metric-St.../dp/B000HTAXFQ

    Make sure you use a torch to heat them up well inside the cases. Mapp gas should be sufficient
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    844
    I removed the studs from my Tri-Z recently. First, squirt some penetrating oil around the base of the studs and let them soak. I just used 2 nuts. Screw both on, tighten them against each other, put a wrench on the bottom one, and back it out. It's best to use the closed end of the wrench and put it on before you screw the nuts on. I have a stud remover but didn't use it. The way mine is designed, it tends to mare the studs. This is a case where the simpler approach works just as well or better. If you want a stud remover, this is the one I have used. Usually I only use it for really stubborn studs, like cylinder base studs if they are frozen and I'm going to replace them.

    http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-stud-e...FUuSYgodBhoFvA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,012
    As well as all the above I find a good straight down smack with a is the trick to getting the stubborn ones to break loose.

    If you must reuse them (the short studs on the left side are no longer available from Yamaha) heat them up and apply the Penetrating oil as they cool. Seems to suck the oil in as it cools. Then let them sit overnight in a position conducive to gravity pulling the oil down.

    Put the nuts on and tighten them really good. It never hurts to try to turn the studs a little further into the cases before attempting to turn them out for the first time in a gazillion years.

    Then smack the top with a , reheat and they should come right out. If you are encountering resistance as they are turning out, then turn them back in and repeat this process as you are bringing them out. There is no need to fight whatever gunk is stuck inside those threads as you may end up damaging the aluminum threads in your cases. Think of it as you would if you were tapping a hole, you don’t just go all the way in when doing it by hand, you have to constantly go back-and-forth to break the chips.

    I agree with Christph’s suggestion of putting the box end of the wrench under the nuts, but in the event that the first attempt doesn’t work I’ve turned a few wrenches blue reheating the studs.

    Get high quality nuts for this job and not soft junk, then you can safely use the open end of your wrench.
    Last edited by El Camexican; 05-06-2018 at 01:32 PM.
    It sucks to get old

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Coachella Valley, Calif
    --
    124
    Well this was too easy, went to try the double nut method, when I was tightening the top nut, noticed the stud was loose, I removed the case stud (by hand) w my fingers ...lol Case threads look okay. Cool!Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,012
    Quote Originally Posted by this old rz View Post
    Well this was too easy, went to try the double nut method, when I was tightening the top nut, noticed the stud was loose, I removed the case stud (by hand) w my fingers ...lol Case threads look okay. Cool!Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	252152
    Careful, it looks like you dog thinks it’s a bone for him.
    It sucks to get old

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