Rear chain help? Maybe

[Shep1970]

My heads hit a brick wall, must be an age thing. Can someone that’d know take a quick look and tell me?
I’m thinking three links shorter or maybe 4?
The axle carrier is loose on chain tension so can be tightened-
Yes this chain is getting replaced(junk)
Auto 200x- going from 42tooth to a 36
The chain in the pics is 88 links
Thanks for any help I figure someone will look and say “oh that’s an easy one”

The master link is the top real rusty one
Or maybe I’ll just get a longer chain and invest in a chain breaker tool
Shep

[fabiodriven]

Depending on your setup and gearing, sometimes you end up at a point where the chain is going to be either too short or too long. If you have the carrier all the way slacked, then you're obviously going to have to go to the next link. Hopefully there will be enough travel in the carrier to take up the slack. The new chain is going to stretch so you may get to a point where you have to remove a link after it stretches.

[DAM shop]

I've had to cut them on the short side and use a half link..

[fabiodriven]

I've had to cut them on the short side and use a half link..

I've used half links in certain situations but I didn't even bring them up here because they can be somewhat unreliable.

[Shep1970]

That’s the thing I’d like to stay away from the half links. I might be able to get a touch more slack out of the carrier adjustment. I will mess with the carrier to see, i’ll See what the carrier movement allows for adjustment. Have to make dinner for fam be back soon.

Damn may flies suk/
Just need a couple hours more of daylight!!
Shep

[fabiodriven]

The flies are terrible yes. I have bug nets I put over my squash. It might look funny but it works.

[El Camexican]

I don’t have much to say other than f@@k I hate when that happens.

I’d go up or down on the rear sprocket 1 tooth before I debated a half link.

Remember that it’s better to be a little loose than a little time on a suspended axle.

[Shep1970]

This steel 36t sprocket was like $25 bucks, they had a 37tooth at the same price.
Sprocket specialties was like $80 for a 38tooth. I do have a one tooth smaller for the front but I’ll probably have to run next to it then jump on, ha
Wife took us to Walmart, been here for 1-1/2 hours and daylights gone! I’ll take another look at this tomorrow.
(Ok back to lurking)


Shep

[Shep1970]

Ok, I think I found the solution. I put a larger 13tooth on the front. But still had the same half link look in the rear
So now I will leave the 13 on the front and put the 42t back on the rear that will give me what’s equal to a 38/39 in the rear because stock is 12t. It should be better than the 12/42 ratio? (Need a touch more speed)
Doing this because the trx200sx engine 1st gear seems to be a granny gear and only a five speed, found myself over and over looking for 6th gear but not there!

Or maybe just go buy that 37tooth and leave the stock 12t up front
Ok, well thanks for listening to me ramble on- “happy Sunday”!!!!

Shep

[El Camexican]

General rules of sprockets....

The smaller the front sprocket the faster the chain wears out. Too small and you’ll have accselarated wear on the upper swingarm pivot area. Too big and the chain can start wearing into your cases and whatever else is around that area, especially after it starts to get worn and loose.

1 tooth on the front is equal to about 3 on the rear.

Even though the ratios may be almost identical like a 12/42 vs a 13/45 the smaller front sprocket will give you a better 60’ time at the drag strip, not sure why that is.

JT sprockets are cheap and from what I have experienced they don’t wear any faster than the high dollar stuff, they just don’t look as pretty.

[Shep1970]

My final decision-ha- yes the 13 would probably have been fine up front but a little snug near the case saver for my liking.
Back to the stock 12t, left the 36t on rear. Just ordered a cheaper 84link chain “hoping it’ll stretch sooner. I pulled the chain slack out to where a new chain would go, the chain did have a little up/down movement but not as much as I would like, I’m hoping for the best.....if not i’ll Start over again.
I just “don’t” want to split these cases to replace output shaft bearing because “I” left the chain too tight
Just have to wait for the mailman....
Shep

The 36t looks tiny compared to the 42t /

[El Camexican]

If you want to be absolutely certain that you have not over tightened your chain, remove your rear shock and pivot your swing arm out until the axel is a far away from the countershaft as it can be. You can have the chain as tight as a fiddle string at that point and nothing bad will come of it.

If you don’t want to remove the shock, just get a few portly friends to climb onto the trike at the same time and set it taunt when the suspension is half compressed. A ratchet tie down might work as well and they don’t ask for beers when you put them to work.

PS. There’s no such thing as a good cheap chain.

[Shep1970]

I bought an “RK” non-oring chain, the company sounded familiar and supposedly made in Japan. Im thinking it’s atleast a step above those colored china $15-18 chains found on eBay. Good idea on removing the shock, I have to grease the bushing anyhow.
Im “still” finding trikefest mud/clay in places on this bike.....jeez
Shep

[El Camexican]

I bought an “RK” non-oring chain, the company sounded familiar and supposedly made in Japan. Im thinking it’s atleast a step above those colored china $15-18 chains found on eBay. Good idea on removing the shock, I have to grease the bushing anyhow.
Im “still” finding trikefest mud/clay in places on this bike.....jeez
Shep

RK makes a great product as does D.I.D.

[Red Rider]

As El said, RK is a quality brand, but personally, I wouldn't use a non o-ring, as they're too noisy for my liking. Supposedly, the extra drag of a traditional o-ring chain robs hp, as they are fairly stiff, but much of that is negated by the newer x-ring chains, which move much more freely.

Wife took us to Walmart, been here for 1-1/2 hours...

That is a recipe for fun!