KTM Three Wheeler Conversion - Done!!!

[knappyfeet]

Nice work sir!

When I get ready to attempt one myself I'll do the smartest thing and call you and pay you to do it.

(Then take the credit myself)

[El Camexican]

Nice work sir!

When I get ready to attempt one myself I'll do the smartest thing and call you and pay you to do it.

(Then take the credit myself)

Ha ha! You’re one of many on here (past and present) that I wouldn’t want to have a build off with.

[3Z with Fangs!]

Looks good man, once it's all foamed and covered nobody will know but you.

[El Camexican]

I dropped the seat off at lunchtime yesterday and picked it up after work today. I’m pretty pleased with how it came out. Also picked up some laser cut parts including the upper section of what will be the sub-frame.









I’ve decided to leave the upper shock mount in the stock location. This will allow me to use the factory boot that goes from the carburetor around the shock and out toward the left side of the bike, but I’m not sure what the air box is going to end up looking like. I’d like to keep the massive ATV air box if possible. It would hold a lot of beer and ice.

[ironchop]

..... I’d like to keep the massive ATV air box if possible. It would hold a lot of beer and ice.

Yes it's important to keep the fuel vapor and the air cool and dense in order to facilitate optimum air/fuel ratio.

Looking good otherwise



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[El Camexican]

Started on the lower supports of the sub-frame tonight.

The KTM uses 16mm X 20mm aluminum extrusions to make the sub-frame. I went with 5/8” 18ga carbon steel and plug welded solid steel bar into the ends and countersunk and tapped them like the stockers. Hopefully it’s going to be strong enough.

[HondaRidr]

I've been following this with lots of interest. I'm excited to see the final product

[El Camexican]

I'm excited to see the final product

That makes two of us!

[El Camexican]

Busy weekend. Drove up to Laredo on Friday to mail the steering stem to the guy building the triple tree and then started working on the upper section of the sub frame again this morning.

















I’m really happy with how this is coming together, it even looks like I might be able to use the section beneath the seat for an air box as well as tool storage, as it seems that the shock and reservoir will clear everything. It also looks like the seat height is going to end up being about 5 inches lower than the motorcycle seat was. As long as the geometry will still allow the suspension to bottom out without the cases bottoming out everything should be fine.

[86T3]

Looking great man, keep up the good work

[El Camexican]

I’ve been debating whether or not I need to get another gas tank for this project and if so what color it should be. As you can see in some of the previous photos I’ve posted the 16 year old used tank is not anywhere near the condition of the brand new ATV fenders.

The other day I started messing around with sanding and polishing, something I’ve dabbled with a bit in the past, but never really gotten near the quality of some of the work I’ve seen on here and other places.

I started with 320 grit, then 400, 600, ( my Home Depot is out of 800)1000, 1200, 1500 and then finally 2000. I even tried some 3000 and some heavy cut rubbing compound, but the 3000 sandpaper does almost nothing and the heavy cut rubbing compound actually scuffs up the plastic as though it was 600 grit sand paper, so I stopped using it and went straight to a light polishing compound and then finished with a final cut, or pre-wax polish.

The results were good, but after finding a few deep scratches that hadn’t sanded out I learned something about this particular plastic. Seems that if you go through all the procedures I just mentioned including the final buff and then start over again from 320 and work your way all the way up the sand paper cuts much better and a lot of fine scratches that didn’t come out the first time disappear. I’m not sure exactly why this is happening, but I’ve tried it with, and without the mechanical buffing procedure and I’m thinking that the heat caused by the mechanical buffing is hardening the plastic somewhat and makes it much easier to sand.

I am very happy with the results I’m getting. You can see a few scratches if you blow the photo up, or physically stare at the thing from a few inches away, but from a couple feet back it absolutely glowes.

[Red Rider]

I’m thinking that the heat caused by the mechanical barfing hard is the plastic somewhat and makes it much easier to sand.

My guess is your potent stomach acid from all of the camexican food you've been eating. Whatever it is, keep at it. It's looking awesome!

[El Camexican]

My guess is your potent stomach acid from all of the camexican food you've been eating. Whatever it is, keep at it. It's looking awesome!

This is what I get for talking instead of typing

[ironchop]

Looks great.

That's alot of labor

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[Louis Mielke]

Maybe its a depth perception issue, but I don't see how that pivot can still work

I know I'm late to this party but just FYI, they do not pivot any more. Derrick had made plates to make the pegs "bolt on" without welding new mounting plates to the frame. I welded the pegs themseleves onto the plates that clip to the original peg mounts. Basically Bryan wanted the pegs pulled back 2" and the only way to make it happen was by welding the pegs to the plates. They're still removable in case of a bent peg, just have to cut them apart and weld on a new one.