Anyone else ever change to Boyeson reeds and chase a WOT flutter?

[El Camexican]

I can pin mine during a race or in the trails for about 4th or 5th gear then all hell is going on.

If I understand this correctly you’re saying that your trike runs like a raped ape as you accelerate, but when you hold it open for an extended period of time it starts to break up and run like crap?

If so, that is the symptom I was getting from my Yamaha when I went to the dunes. I have purchased a top mount tank, different carburetor and a new ignition system, but I haven’t had a chance to check any of it yet.

It was a very hit and miss situation. The trike would either pull like it had 60hp, or break up and simulate and ignition problem. On the advice of somebody I started tightening my spark plug gap and it seemed to help, but as I got down to .016” it started becoming clear that this was more of an under-fueling issue, but my plug always looked dark.

I have the V Force cage in hand as well as a Ricky Stator ignition, just need time to test.

I’m not convinced that having a larger orific in the return tee to the fuel tank will cause any negative of effects. I say this because in theory until such time as the floats have risen and closed there’s no reason for the fuel to return to the tank, it will always take the easiest path which should be into the float bowl.

[Outlaw #24]

Unless the restrictor is failing or has been drilled out then it dumps to the Tank first and all of the times Because it is closer to the tank than to the carb plus it has to go through the 2nd shut off valve. Remember the pumps are 33 years old in a lot of cases too! May need to be rebuilt. Just saying!

[fieldy]

Very interesting thread! Is there any way you could temporarily bypass all the tri-z fuel pump stuff?

[3Z with Fangs!]

Very interesting thread! Is there any way you could temporarily bypass all the tri-z fuel pump stuff?

Just a top mount tank as far as I know.

[3Z with Fangs!]

If I understand this correctly you’re saying that your trike runs like a raped ape as you accelerate, but when you hold it open for an extended period of time it starts to break up and run like crap?

If so, that is the symptom I was getting from my Yamaha when I went to the dunes. I have purchased a top mount tank, different carburetor and a new ignition system, but I haven’t had a chance to check any of it yet.

It was a very hit and miss situation. The trike would either pull like it had 60hp, or break up and simulate and ignition problem. On the advice of somebody I started tightening my spark plug gap and it seemed to help, but as I got down to .016” it started becoming clear that this was more of an under-fueling issue, but my plug always looked dark.

I have the V Force cage in hand as well as a Ricky Stator ignition, just need time to test.

I’m not convinced that having a larger orific in the return tee to the fuel tank will cause any negative of effects. I say this because in theory until such time as the floats have risen and closed there’s no reason for the fuel to return to the tank, it will always take the easiest path which should be into the float bowl.

Top mount tank? Where did you get one? I would like one but it would have to simulate the airbox cover in looks for me. I love the one on the Bud light TRI-Z.

[El Camexican]

Top mount tank? Where did you get one? I would like one but it would have to simulate the airbox cover in looks for me. I love the one on the Bud light TRI-Z.

You can make your own, or get lucky and find one of the few hand made ones that have been built over the years. There’s a nasty looking aluminum one on eBay right now listed at $900. I have one of the last ones made by John Swinehart before his untimely passing. It’s white, unused and has a new banshee cap. I might be willing to let it go if you are interested. I was told the plastic is paintable.

[3Z with Fangs!]

El, PM me brotha, I'd like to see it and maybe we can work out something.

[3Z with Fangs!]

And man, if I could my own I would and make them for all the Z guys out there as well. I don't know how much demand there would be but if I could make it happen I'd be game.

[El Camexican]

Unless the restrictor is failing or has been drilled out then it dumps to the Tank first and all of the times Because it is closer to the tank than to the carb plus it has to go through the 2nd shut off valve. Remember the pumps are 33 years old in a lot of cases too! May need to be rebuilt. Just saying!

My pump is fresh and I have pulled the hose to check it and it moves a lot of fuel. Sometimes I wonder if that wasn’t the problem from the beginning, that they used a pump that was too large. I’m sure you’ve seen those small rectangular Mikuni fuel pumps that are on everything from lawnmowers to snowmobiles, I believe they only pump about 1/3 the volume of the model used on the Tri Z.

Your thoughts on the restrictor Tee have got me thinking. I might just remove the stock system completely and run fuel through it and have the carburetor feed hose in one pail and the return hose in another to see just what the difference is.

I’m not convinced that opening up the restrict your hole would have an adverse effect on getting fuel to the carburetor. I say that because my self and others have had problems with the pressure of the pump overcoming the restriction of the carburetor float and overfilling the bowl when we put carburetors originality meant for gravity fed fuel systems.

[3Z with Fangs!]

I have a clear hose on mine from the shut-off valve to the carb. I would expect the line to stay full all of the time but you'd be surprised at how low it runs sometimes and fuel looks like it's just trickling in.

[Outlaw #24]

Put a loop in that Hose. and you will be shocked at the difference. THIS IS A ROB SELVY TRICK! He Taught me and Keith Salyer This in 2015 at Ashtabula. Also you may want to remover the 2nd fuel shut off and run directly from the Restrictor.

[Outlaw #24]

BTW The carbs overfill because, with the pump it actually needs the float set lower to shut the fuel off sooner. It has no choice but to shut with the float! No choice Has Too! With the pump in place it will help keep a flow to the carb better than gravity flow.

[3Z with Fangs!]

Thanks, Outlaw, my 2nd fuel shutoff isn't in the greatest of shape anyway so getting rid of it won't break my heart. I may run out in a bit and get all new fuel hose and run it all new from the tank fwd. Where do you suggest placing the loop and securing it?

[3Z with Fangs!]

Ok, so I've PM'd Outlaw to see if he wants to be my friend but in an effort to keep this thread useful I've run new lines and deleted the 2nd shutoff and looped the fuel line hopefully correctly. I have plenty of fuel I can see now but I've noticed something new in how it runs. It's rich mid throttle so back to jetting.

[3Z with Fangs!]

I really have no idea what any of that means but I'll try the small jet that just came but it's gonna blow.