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Thread: Project Loose Fillings AKA The Goblin

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,092
    Eh it will be fine, worst case scratch up the red section and spray bomb it black to make it harder to see. Not sure if there's anything that will stick too well, but it sticks for a while when it isn't flexing. I wasn't sure on the fiberglass thing too, really don't know if it would work well or not. It's not a gas tank, so stickers etc won't bubble up so the epoxy/resin should stick fine I'd think.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    She runs!!!!

    Still only a straight pipe at the moment but it sounds mean. LOL!

    I had to scrap the whole breather box. That sucks, should waited instead of doing so much work. Ohh well.
    Hopefully YaegerB will chime in here.
    His carb builds are flawless. I put a 200X carb on this. He built it for a 200X. The only real difference in this engine and a 200x (running wise) is the cam. Well, with the breather box in place, it runs WAY too rich. Flooded at the drop of a hat. I refuse to touch the carb so I put a simple free flowing air filter on and it runs great. Starts easy. Alls well that ends well.

    Now to find me some rear fenders and build the rest of the exhaust.

    The Goblin has a pulse!!!!
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,510
    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel View Post
    She runs!!!!

    Still only a straight pipe at the moment but it sounds mean. LOL!

    I had to scrap the whole breather box. That sucks, should waited instead of doing so much work. Ohh well.
    Hopefully YaegerB will chime in here.
    His carb builds are flawless. I put a 200X carb on this. He built it for a 200X. The only real difference in this engine and a 200x (running wise) is the cam. Well, with the breather box in place, it runs WAY too rich. Flooded at the drop of a hat. I refuse to touch the carb so I put a simple free flowing air filter on and it runs great. Starts easy. Alls well that ends well.

    Now to find me some rear fenders and build the rest of the exhaust.

    The Goblin has a pulse!!!!
    Glad that carb worked out for ya!
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    So, finally on the exhaust. This is gonna be.....fun....

    Found a tractor muffler that fits in the available space fairly well. I will have to weld brackets to the muffler so I can bolt it to the frame in the original locations.,.,I hope.

    Anyway, how to get this 1.25 pipe to work with the muffler. To the lathe. I turned this piece and modified a Honda factory exhaust clamp.







    Now I can get an exhaust clamp on the part I made to hold the muffler in place. That U-bend is what I will make the connection between the header and the muffler from.






    It's my intention to bore out another Honda clamp, weld it to the header and then I will be able to bolt them together. I've got to come up with a donut gasket to sandwich between the two but I think I got that covered. Hopefully I will have at least a mock up by days end tomorrow. Then final welding, grind it smooth and wrap the header and paint the muffler. What a pain! It'll be worth it though. Unless my rebuild seizes up and being as I built this crap myself....I wouldn't be surprised.


    Wide open to suggestions on an exhaust tip. I'll have to see how it sits on the frame before I can cobble up a tail pipe but it'll be different most likely. Nothing on this build is simple or ordinary yet, no sense in starting down the path of mundane now.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,092
    Should work fine. If you can get pipe close to the same size as the lead pipe, I'd think running that for the tail pipe would be best to keep the system balanced and such. About the only thing I can think of would be to taper the ID of the adapter so the exhaust gases are a bit more free flowing. Kind of like porting, but in an exhaust xD. You pretty much have to read a bunch of stuff at echomodder to get the aerodynamic stuff, like the adapter in a perfect would world round open smoothly to like a 10 degree angle so the air flow stays "attached" and doesn't make turbulence. Of course once the gases go though the muffler, it's not exactly straight/smooth air flow anymore lol. For the sake of KISS, probably easiest to just stick with what you have going on, I doubt it would effect performance enough to be measurable.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    The way I have it made, the pipe goes THROUGH the adapter so it'll be a seamless flow till it hits the muffler.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,092
    I was just meaning, the ID of the adapter to the ID of the muffler. The abrupt end will effect the air flow a little, but like I said, probably not enough to even really measure the performance hit. If it was a performance exhaust then things might be a bit different. Basically it's like the megaphone shape on the DG/Cobra exhaust, then it goes though the packing material to the out pipe. Your exhaust is built different though, probably a metal pipe with a block in the middle to force it though holes in the pipe and back though again out the pipe.

    I need to get me a metal lathe some day, so handy to have.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    OK, exhaust is almost complete. Need to tack the clamp in the header for the muffler joint. Then I need to look it over real good and then I will wrap the thing in header wrap & paint the muffler. Then I gotta com up with a tip and it's done. I couldn't resist starting it, LOL!!! Its not loud but it's really deep and throaty sounding. NOT what I expected. I was hoping for a little quieter but it's a far cry from anything considered to be loud. I ended up using a muffler for a Ford tractor in the end. It fit the best. I know the header doesn't look just fancy but I don't see the need to make the welds weaker by grinding them smooth if I'm just gonna wrap the whole thing anyway.

    Here's today's progress.

    Muffler mounts and test fit.






    Making this header from the Kawasaki work was NOT as hard as I thought. I bought (2) mandrel U-bends and got it right the first time. I have another to use for any future projects.










    Now.......what is we gonna do wiff diss fugly tail end? Hmmmm..... AND, am I gonna regret putting that muffler bracket there? I would know if I had fenders but I don't so...I don't. I'll probably have to notch the fender to clear the bracket but it won't be seen so F it.

    Amateur Resurrectionist

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    Second to last picture.......
    You see the frame mounting point for the factory exhaust? Wonder if it would be wasted effort to build a support bracket for the header and use that spot too?????
    I grabbed the exhaust and was rocking the whole machine. It is solid as a rock but.........trails do evil things......
    Only reason I hesitate is it would make wrapping it a little harder.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,092
    On my 350x, it has no grab bar, so the DG exhaust I've used a few times to scoot the rear end around, they should be mounted solid =).

    I'm not sure where the stock exhaust mount was on that machine, could probably look up a photo on ebay to see where the tab comes out though.

    I don't think grinding on welds would really make them weaker, think of unibody or frame repair, it's butt welded, then ground smooth so the finish can be like it was new. I'd think grinding would only weaken a weld if the weld didn't penetrate well and the top of the weld was where all it's strength is at. The process of welding already heats the snot out of the metal, so not like the grinding heat is going to effect much, depending how you do it.

    The tail pipe seems fine, what's the problem with it, I thought it wasn't going to be that close to the rear of the machine, but looks like it worked out about right. Maybe throw a little down spout to it with another one of your adapters and call it good? As it is, just keep it out of the rain so it doesn't collect water.

    That exhaust is made kind of silly, normally the arrow on them shows the flow, not the intake side. I suspect that muffler doesn't matter a whole lot which direction it's installed anyway.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    Yeah that arrow seemed rather dumb to me too.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    Got it wrapped and done...all but the muffler clamp. Ordered it today. It's solid enough to run without it 'gently' so I can break the engine in. The Goblin made it's maiden voyage around the yard today. Feels strong. Much stronger than any 200 I've built so far.

    Got to looking at it today and the seat I made...it's gotta go. I spent a LOT of time carving foam and stitching leather from a Broyhill leather couch to make this seat and it is BY FAR the most comfortable seat I have ever sat on.....but, as Jessie James once said on an episode of Monster Garage...Time and money spent will NEVER justify something that looks like sh!t. .....and it does. It doesn't match the lines of anything. It dwarfs the tank and looks like a big square couch cushion sitting there. !! Ohh well. I may try to find another seat pan and save this instead of tearing apart. Maybe it'll look better on something else. Looks like Hiflite is getting some of my money in the future.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,092
    Like 15 years ago I was a given a 1979 RM125 dirt bike with no seat. I wanted to fix/ride it, so after I got it running, I welded up a metal seat frame from tiny like 1/2in square stock from some scrap in the yard and used canvas as a seat cover. The foam I used is the foam used under carpets. Used an angle sander with like a 50 grit disk to shape it. Besides being an ugly green color, the seat turned out awesome, it also was nice and comfy too. It was about 5 layers of carpet padding, I don't think I even glued them together, just held in place and sanded away and then covered it.

    Anyway, a seat is a seat, if you can ride it, I wouldn't worry too much about it, at least not yet, you don't even have fenders on it yet right? Once you figure out the fenders, it might change your opinion on how the seat looks.

    The Jessie James quote kind of reminds me of something my grandpa said all the time. "If you can't find time to do it right the first time, then how are you going to find the time to do it again." My dad over builds everything he touches because that's been instilled in him so much lol. His "light duty" trailer only made for quads is now our go to trailer for hauling scrap, fire wood, etc. The only thing that's been too much for it was a 1960's era 1 ton ford with a king cab. Axle to axle was so far, it bent the back of the trailer a bit. That truck was probably 4 tons though and the rear axle was on the weakest point of the trailer.

    Anyway, sounds like all that hard work on the harness worked out and the engine building =).

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    Brother, I cannot thank you enough or give you high enough praise for all the help. Never would I have been able to make this harness AND IT WORKED THE FIRST TIME!!! Without your help. One of the few things I have ever built from scratch and didn't have to "adjust" anything. It worked perfect from the time I plugged in the last connector.

    By the way, I had major concerns about the stator when i first started this. This engine and frame sat in a corn field for nigh ten years just exposed to the elements. If we can believe this chinese tach/volt meter I got off ebay it is producing 14.4 volts at 2K RPM. New engine and only took a couple laps around the yard. I have not revved it any higher and won't until I get the break in oil changed. Idling it shows 13.2 volts and with the key on/engine off it shows 13 volts. Not a good battery, it's a harbor freight generator battery and they aren't a shining example of quality. BUT, I'd say for time spent in the sun and storms, it's working well, yeah?
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    876
    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    Glad that carb worked out for ya!

    Hey Brendon, I set the idle to about 800-825 rpm with a hot engine. As per your note, I did NOT touch anything else. When it's hot, if you blip the throttle it will idle up to about 1000-1050 for about 3 seconds and then fall right back to my set idle. I've had them idle up and won't come down but this one comes down abruptly after about 2 or 3 seconds. Reckon that's because I am running a clamp on breather and NOT the breather box? If it continues to run like it is now and (once the engine is broke in) doesn't show a lean condition on a plug pull test I refuse to F' with it. Hot dang! When it's cold with a full choke it rolls over three times and starts, go immediately to half choke for just a few seconds.....when it's hot, you jump barely bump the starter and it fires right up.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

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