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Thread: Project Loose Fillings AKA The Goblin

  1. #1
    Gabriel's Avatar
    Gabriel is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Project Loose Fillings AKA The Goblin

    So, I rescued this sad old 200E. Not sure of the year. Engine....I know it's trash but I might tear it down and see what's savable. Someday.
    It sat outside for the last decade or better. Uncovered. No seat or fenders, in an open field.
    The battery box is rotted so I cut it out and smoothed it up. This will be sporting a 200S engine anyway.
    This is going to be a very long term project. I have two other three wheelers to fix first. BUT, I wanted to get this in paint before winter got here.

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    I want to find a 185 front end and make this a true rigid. Hence the name, Loose Fillings. Not sure what I will do with the engine but I would like to find a 200XR top end for it.


    Sand blasted the frame. Two coats of etching primer and five coats of GCI acrylic enamel Marine Corp green. I had a gallon left from an M151 I fixed up years ago. I got the paint from Rapco. It's awesome paint. Semi-gloss and it dries FAST.

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    I'm going to paint the tank to match, provided I can find one. I know painting the fenders will be a bad idea but I have some really ratty old fenders that are whole but cracked bad. I have cut out the zip tie repairs someone done before me and used steel wire to stitch it together. If you twist the wire tight and do individual stitches, it's a hell-for-stout repair. It just looks like Frankenstein's forehead.
    I have a piece of a fender that is beyond repair. I'm going to do a little experimenting with painting it. I'm wondering if lightly etching it with a sand blaster would give the paint something to grab ahold of. If I do decide to paint the fenders, this paint is good, it's meant to be recoated anytime so touch ups are a breeze. The military has been known to use a mop to apply this stuff to a deuce and a half. LOL. Surely I can make it look "Redneck Decent".
    Last edited by Gabriel; 10-23-2018 at 05:41 PM.
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  2. #2
    Gabriel's Avatar
    Gabriel is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    BTW, If any of you guys have an extra 185 front end you wanna sell, please let me know.
    ....I think the 185 is the right front end. What ever front end that had no shocks that will fit this frame. I think the early ATC200's had solid forks too.

    Thanks!!!
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  3. #3
    Gabriel's Avatar
    Gabriel is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    OK, I had a thought. Let's see what you think of it.

    I am currently looking for a S or M front end to upgrade my 84 200ES (yet another project) to a pair of Showa forks. MUCH better than the factory turds. That ES front end was not very well thought out.

    But I was looking at the ES front end today and had an idea to make a rigid front end out of it. Using about a 5 inch length of 4140 I could turn half of it to be a slip fit to the inside of the ES front end and the other half to the same OD as the ES front end tubes. Then drill the axle holes in both and the brake drum pin hole in one of them. Mock it all up and tack them to in the ES front end. Disassemble and weld it up tight. I only did some rough measuring today but from the fork bolt hole to the axle bolt hole is about 12 inches. That would only have a couple inches of my homemade trunnion hanging out of the ES forks. I know I could make it PLENTY strong and give the rigid front end I'm looking for.

    I will have to take some actual measurements and lay it all out but it seems rather simple in theory.
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  4. #4
    Gabriel's Avatar
    Gabriel is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Started the rear end today. Got it cleaned up and smeared a little paint on it. Got the hardware all cleaned. THAT might be one of the worst tasks in any rebuild....cleaning all the rusty nuts and bolts.

    Anyway, a large truck inner tube makes for GREAT gasket material for the brake drum cover. Should last for years.

    Waiting on the axle bearings and seals as well as the brake cover seal. Then I will get it installed.
    Still not entirely sure what rear end this is. I THNIK it's from an '83 ATC200. ....I think.

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    Next I need to decide on a rear sprocket. The current one is a 47 tooth. Once I confirm it IS in fact an ATC200; Where's the best place to get a different size sprocket? If I use the 200E engine I am stuck with the 11 tooth front sprocket. It's in great shape so no worries there but it's a unique animal and I doubt custom ones are available.
    I would like to find something like a 43 tooth rear & pick up some speed. Loss of low end isn't too much of a concern as that two speed subtransmission will help out for low speed pulling.

    Any thoughts on that?
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  5. #5
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    Contact PBI spockets.You may have to get aluminum for a smaller size.I think they range from 35-60 teeth.
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  6. #6
    Gabriel's Avatar
    Gabriel is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Got a little lathe work done today.
    I posted in another thread that a 220 Bayou Kawasaki rear hub will interchange with a Honda ATC200 axle. BUT, here's the rub. One side is a big gaudy brake drum.

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    No problem. Lets give it a hair cut.

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    Then I noticed it's a bit long in the tooth to get the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole so it needed a little more trimming. Set it up in the lathe and trued everything up and got it to fit perfect.

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    Okay, I admit it ain't purty but a coat of flat black and you'll never see it under the Kawasaki 10 inch rims. Outta sight, outta mind.




    Then I set my mind to those totally sheet 200 ES forks I have. I want to make it into a rigid front end. Let's get started.

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    I still have to drill the axle holes, then I will put the axle in to keep the holes aligned and weld these in place.
    I have decided to delete the front drum. I'm going to do one of two things here. Run a back brake only or see about making a disk brake work. I don't have ALL the parts (surplus that is) needed to make a front drum to work. Honestly, I've been riding 3 wheelers for over 3 decades and I rarely use a front brake anyway. 99% of my braking is with my right foot.



    Getting closer. I was looking at the frame and that green paint. I have decided to call this one.....The Goblin
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  7. #7
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atc300r View Post
    Contact PBI spockets.You may have to get aluminum for a smaller size.I think they range from 35-60 teeth.
    Thanks! I looked at those after you posted it but I can't get on board with an ALUMINUM sprocket. I'm sure they're fine but I will just use the stock one I have for now. It's an easy swap later if I find what I really want.....AND if I actually NEED to.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  8. #8
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    I found a way to run one of the 220 Bayou front wheels on this trike build.

    Using one of the Kawasaki front brake drums and one of the 9 inch front wheels, I will build a front end for the Goblin.

    First thing, I need the 'Saki drum to accept Honda ATC front wheel bearings and seals so they fit the ES axle I will be using. No biggie. Lets open them holes up.
    Had to turn the outside a bit to get something true to hold onto for the opposite side.

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    Now, As soon as I get the front fork trunnions drilled and welded in place I can make the appropriate spacers to center the tire to the forks.



    ....If ya'll ain't figured me out yet.....I love taking junk and making toys out of it. The Green Goblin will be JUST THAT. A pile of sht. ....eeerrrr, I mean a turd polished....no wait. Salvaged parts crafted into a ridable 3 wheeler. YEAH, that's what I meant.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  9. #9
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    On the custom sprocket, check into these guys. My dad put 28in outlaw tires (big tractor like mud tires) on a 99 Yamaha warrior and the stock 44ish tooth sprocket was way too high geared with a 13 up front I think. If I remember right stock rear tire size is 22in, I've ran 25in ever since (I bought it). He got 11 in the front and 52 in the back if I remember right. Still too high geared but atleast the clutch wasn't being used constantly while in the mud lol. We abused the hell out of that machine and had no sprocket issues, just the chain getting loose quick because it was a cheap/crappy one and the fact the mud will eat them up fast.

    http://sprocketspecialists.com/

    Here's the same tires, but on a blaster project of mine. If I recall correctly, we put 25in tires on the front of it. This was going to be the new mud toy to give the warrior a rest lol. Soon after we got a couple Honda's and never bothered with chains till I got a 350x =).
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  10. #10
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    Small victory. The rigid conversion for the ES front end is going to work. I'm almost to the point of making it permanent. I'm going to do another test assembly and disassembly after tacking it together before making a solid weld.




    Here's my finished trunnions and spacers. I made the spacers using steel tubing and machined bushings that I press fit in each end and bored to a slip fit to the axle. I had to do it this way because it's all I had to work with and I needed something that would go inside the seal snug and bear against the bearing race.
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    Here's it's assembled. I got it pretty close considering what i have to work with. Best i can measure, the wheel is about 1/32" off center to the fork tubes. I don't think the Goblin is gonna care. It'll track straight enough.

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    Each trunnion has a large counterbore on each end. One for the head of the axle and the other to clear the 19mm socket used to tighten the nut. I think, since this axle only has a hole in head to hold it during tightening, I am going to add a roll pin. I will get a pin that fits the hole in the axle then use a small round file to make a grooved pocket for the pin to sit in on the trunnion. That way the axle CANNOT rotate.
    Off to get dirty again.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  11. #11
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    Welded in and ground smooth. There's some right nasty pitting on these tubes. Deeper than I want to grind to remove them. I got a plan for that though.

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    I know I'm gonna want to run an LED for the head light so next is to cut and weld some mounts for it. Then I'll get it cleaned up and smear some paint on it.
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  12. #12
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    Jessie James once said on an episode of Monster Garage years ago; something that always stuck with me because it is so true.
    Time and money spent will NEVER justify something that looks like sh!t

    The rigid conversion is still going to work but the wheel hub setup is NOT. I got to studying it and the wheel bearing spacing is so close together theres NO way it will hold up. It needs a totally different hub, which I have.... I just dont have a wheel for it. Too bad. I'm not building something i know will fail. One step forward, two steps back.
    *sigh* Gotta find a rim now. Dangit!
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  13. #13
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    What's the difference in the rims, just bolt pattern? When I was poking around that area on part diagrams, I figured it was just 2 piece rim vs standard rim.

  14. #14
    Gabriel's Avatar
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    What I was going to use was a front wheel and hub (modified) from a Kawasaki 220. The bearings are too close together and I know it won't hold up in turns. I have a front hub that will work right but I have no wheel. I need a 4 lug wheel with a 130mm bolt circle. It could be a 8, 9 or 10...heck, even a 12 would work. I just can't find a rim around here. Guess I should post a wanted thread in the classifieds.
    Amateur Resurrectionist

  15. #15
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    I have a 4x130mm split style rim from an early ATC185 like 81-83ish. I measured the mounting holes to be sure. Outside isn't too bad, rims were painted black. Inside they didn't touch, and the junk tires were rusted on quite bad, had to cut the side wall off and break each of the metal bands to get it to release. Anyway, assuming you don't mind the repaint work they should work for your needs. Let me know if you need to know anything else about them. Also two of the lock washers are missing, should be easy enough to source replacements though.

    The photos makes them look worse than they are, it's surface layer rust with a little flaking, doesn't seem to be deep pitting or anything. Also the rim halves were sealed with silicone in the middle + the o-ring. You might need a new o-ring, or copy what the last person did to seal it. Sanding/repainting them should make it a lot easier to seal up though, atleast it did when I did the same thing to a set of ATC90 rims that were in about the same condition.
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