//ArrowChat Code

Upcoming Events for the Next 120 Day(s)

Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: 82 250R-put away wet

  1. #1
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516

    82 250R-put away wet

    Greetings!!
    Picked this up this week w/o the top end and pipe. Thats it...so I hoped, but not as easy as picking those up and having a running 2-stroke trike.
    Tipped it over yesterday to start cleaning it and a cup of water poured out. Drained oil-no water.
    It will definitely be a learning process for me but, I plan to get it going.

    Ok, Im wondering what should be done. Can I pour diesel in there to flush out the rest of the water?Click image for larger version. 

Name:	194C2EB5-D883-4772-83E5-06351A919D10.jpeg 
Views:	37 
Size:	2.69 MB 
ID:	254921 Or will it be more than that. Other than that, appears to be in great shape

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9EDD4DA3-5B5B-4890-A04D-334947821BEF.jpeg 
Views:	46 
Size:	2.52 MB 
ID:	254923
    Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,355
    Split the cases and at the very least. Replace the crank bearings and seals and get a new connecting rod installed with big end bearing.
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  3. #3
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516
    Thanks yaegerb. Good to hear from you. I just got a glimpse of the flywheel—-it’s not pretty. Although, I’m stoked to have it, this might take awhile. First order is a manual.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carthage NY 250r rules
    --
    2,109
    Join the facebook aircooled site .Alot of members are from 3ww and air-foolers.Good place to find info and parts.
    250r rules

  5. #5
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516
    300r, thanks. Engine came out easy. I only wanted to clean the chain. Carb cleaned up nicely—might need a little more attention?? A manual is coming, soon, so I’ll try to not do anymore until then, but dang—it’s fun!!
    Seller tells me he got it for free, the kids next door were getting rid of their dads stuff after he passed. Also told me it was stored inside as I’m looking at pine needles all over it. Offered him 50 less at 200. Attachment 254948
    Attachment 254949

  6. #6
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516
    This trike doesnt seem as bad as the title. Cleaned out the crankcase real good diesel and gas flush. Ive got a manual, but without securing any parts, yet, I havent cracked the cases. Im a little unsure about that. There is no play on the rod.

    Grease gun pushed the brake pistons out. Front master was horrible so I sanded the plastic and cleaned inside. Calipers and master cylinders work great. Hopefully, (with help) this trike will amount to something. Thanks

  7. #7
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516

    Reed suggestion please

    Thanks to 3ww, cylinder, head & pipe are in route!! Im unsure about the reeds. Should I buy a used stock cage? I dont see anything else. What reeds can you suggest I get for a stock 82? Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,355
    I would use boyesen power reeds. Work well and they are priced affordably.
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    2,131
    On the service manual, there's online copies of the actual Honda service manual. For any critical details, I'd reference that manual to be the most accurate. The other branded mauals should be good for general how to's. You can always print the info you need from the digital copy and not care about getting the paper dirty etc.

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

    I'd guess the transmission is alright, but water in the crank area is bad even short term. I'm with yaegerb, split the cases, and bare min replace the crank bearings, seals, and a rod big end bearing. New rod would never hurt too since it's taken down that far. Splitting the case can be kind of scary, but just follow the service manual and things generally end up fine. If not, post here and we can help with what's missing, what order things should be in etc which is also shown in the manual. I've split a couple of TRX250X engines, it's not that bad when gravity holds everything together and you're just taking one case half off.

    Once you get the cylinder and such in the mail, I suspect you'd want to measure it and see if it's standard bore or over sized and buy a new piston/rings to match it, maybe have the cylinder bored if it's standard bore but out of spec, etc. I'm not all that experienced in that area, I just know the piston determines the bore size (always buy the piston first, then have the bore job done to match it). Maybe the piston you have is re-usable, probably depends if it's scored and such.

    Anyway, good luck on your build.

  10. #10
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    On the service manual, there's online copies of the actual Honda service manual. For any critical details, I'd reference that manual to be the most accurate. The other branded mauals should be good for general how to's. You can always print the info you need from the digital copy and not care about getting the paper dirty etc.

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

    I'd guess the transmission is alright, but water in the crank area is bad even short term. I'm with yaegerb, split the cases, and bare min replace the crank bearings, seals, and a rod big end bearing. New rod would never hurt too since it's taken down that far. Splitting the case can be kind of scary, but just follow the service manual and things generally end up fine. If not, post here and we can help with what's missing, what order things should be in etc which is also shown in the manual. I've split a couple of TRX250X engines, it's not that bad when gravity holds everything together and you're just taking one case half off.

    Once you get the cylinder and such in the mail, I suspect you'd want to measure it and see if it's standard bore or over sized and buy a new piston/rings to match it, maybe have the cylinder bored if it's standard bore but out of spec, etc. I'm not all that experienced in that area, I just know the piston determines the bore size (always buy the piston first, then have the bore job done to match it). Maybe the piston you have is re-usable, probably depends if it's scored and such.

    Anyway, good luck on your build.
    Hey there, thanks!
    Im not sure if these pictures can tell anything:


    What would be wrong? I mean what can I look for from looking down in crank area that will tell me it needs new bearings? Or is it a feeling when it is turning? There is red residue inside crank area that isnt coming off. Other than that it looks good and feels smooth with no up/down play.
    Maybe its hard to tell without it split open? Oh ya, newbie alert!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    2,131
    Water = rust, rust = wear in bearings. It won't be instant, but it *could* be a problem later. The idea is better safe than sorry. Replace bearings now, or the whole crank + bearings etc later. Engines have some pretty extreme conditions they have to hold up to, just think of how much force has to be pressed down to turn that crank, the transmission gears, the chain, axles, tires etc to push you on the machine and go 60mph+ in top gear.

    Anyway, ignoring the possible rust factor, there are legit specs to check too. It starts on page 95 of the manual I linked before. It requires some special tools and the crank to be removed to inspect, so still requires the case split.

    I guess this can be kind of like baking a raspberry pie, then finding there was bugs in the berries. You could try to pick out the bugs and still eat it, but most people would rather start with a new pie and not risk eating the bugs (the bugs being a failure/issue with the engine later).

    At the end of it, it is your machine, your money, and your decision, fully understand trying to save money. Personally if everything appeared good and the bearings seem to be in spec (read the specs in the service manual to get an idea what to look for), I might run it as is after cleaning everything out. I'd probably split it anyway just to be sure no dirt and such got in anything. Dirt + oil/gas = liquid sand paper. It's just good to know the possible risks related to it. I've had 4 stroke engines that had rust in the cylinder and seized up and I broke it free and it ended up running fine and not having any major problems. If it was a post on here, I'd suggest pulling the cylinder off, honing it to clean out the rust etc, because that's the best way to fix it and every situation is different.

    The crank seal replacement is still strongly encouraged though, 2 strokes that have an air leak anywhere can run lean, which can cause a lot of damage to the piston/cylinder.

    I'd suggest having someone tune the engine after the build to be slightly rich and use a slightly heavier mix of oil than what your oil of pick suggests, for the basic fact it has to break in again and there's extra friction/heat to deal with. Then after a few tanks of gas, have it dialed in for a proper tune with the oil/fuel mixture you plan to run. Of course there's a lot of different opinions on how to break in an engine, not really trying to get into that argument though. It's kind of like buying a new Honda, and running Honda oil for the first few oil changes. In the mind of the owner, they are running the best oil possible for the machine during the break in time, but is Honda oil actually the best can be an argument, but most people can agree good oil is best instead of junk or used oil.

    Anyway, I haven't worked on many 250r's, is the rod color normal for that engine? It almost looks like a light layer of rust, but then again almost looks like it's plated with copper. I can see in the bottom of the case has an orangish build up, might be rust, might be whatever is on the rod. I'd want to remove it off the AL in either case. Also the pitting on the crank is one of the reasons I'm in support for replacing the bearings, clear signs that corrosion has happened to some extent.

    Doesn't matter what route you go with this, but I hope it all works out well for you in the end. It's not the end of the world if the crank goes bad, it just has to be caught before major problems like the lean condition I mentioned before happens (bad bearings can take out seals quicker).

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
    --
    4,355
    Dave, when you get everything back and you assemble you must at the very least do a pressure test.
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  13. #13
    Jd110's Avatar
    Jd110 is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    516
    More work, but hey! Its got to be done. Maybe not by me because Id like it to be done right lol. Thanks for the push towards the right direction. Youre right, I was ignoring it.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //