‘82 250R-put away wet

[yaegerb]

How does it run?

[barnett468]

Forgot to add this....I did do a pressure test. it held 6 lbs for 6 minutes. Kept it on for an hour and it held steady. So, hopefully that’s good.

ummm...yeah, that's ludicrously good.

As for the the seals where the pipe meets exhaust flange, I’m not sure what type of seal was original. Where there is an o-ring for some, this has a metal ring with a split in it, that goes in the recessed channel.

This is an original honda split ring seal for an 82. Both seals look very similar to the ones ironchop posted for an 85 so the 82 vs the 85 seals look to be the same basic design but may just be slightly different in size. Your existing split ring seal sounds like it is correct and original.

I’m trying to figure out what number 7 is in this diagram: Is it a copper gasket?

Here's a little better photo of the 82' head pipe seal item 7 and is an nos item. It looks like a soft (possibly asbestos) material that is impregnated with some type of coating.



.

[Jd110]

That’s great, thanks guys. Barn, I was told by someone here locally, that it was probably made of lead. So, I have an idea to make one with copper wire and lead. You guys know what’s up!! Seems every time, this group has the answer. I’ve asked several people here locally over the past few weeks.
Chop, I saw that bike master ad. I almost got it the other day, but wasn’t sure about it fitting so, I ordered a Honda ring for the FL350. It’s in Canada so weeks away. Thanks for taking the time to look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jd110]

How does it run?

Not yet. This is where I could use your advice or even double checking me. I put in a 50 pilot & 152.5 main. Clip is in the middle. 32:1 mix for new top end (Honda hp-2)?
I’ve got a 148(came with trike), 150, 152.5, 158 main.
Should I check the plug after the first start up or heat cycle? I’m not sure how to get it close before I can do a plug chop.

If you have an idea on a temporary seal for the pipe-cylinder, I’m off today and available to start it, which I’m anxious for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[atc300r]

This may sound stupid but when I change headlight bulbs I remove the silcone o-ring from the blown bulb and use 2 of them on my aircooled 250r. I have used these for years never had a leak I clean the manifold and pipe well before installing. Pic of the bulbs.

[barnett468]

I think the O ring idea is great for the outside of the flange, and have done the same on other vehicles. Viton, silicone, and fluorosilicone have the highest heat resistance. Some ACE True Value hardware stores in my area carry a wide selection of viton seals, so if there is one in your area you could check with them. Seal suppliers and traditional industrial hardware stores should also carry them. Auto parts stores may sell the O rings separately that atc300r posted.

http://mykin.com/rubber-temperature-range


Harbor Freight shows a variety of viton seals, seals, but the package is $10.00.

https://www.harborfreight.com/180-pi...8aAq5hEALw_wcB


As for the soft seal, I have an idea that may work and will post it in around 30 minutes, but I have never seen this seal in person, so I don't know the dimensions, therefore, others here can tell you if my idea may work or they may have a better idea.

.

[barnett468]

Ok, here's just a few suggestions for the soft seal.

1. stack up some O rings until they are the height you need.

2. Use some of the firm type silencer packing and cut it to size. Most motorcycle shops sell it but it might be $10.00.

3. Use some soft, non foil backed, starter motor heat shield wrap and cut it to size. Many auto parts stores sell it but it might be $10.00 or more.

4. Use some soft header wrap and cut it to size. You will likely have to cut 2 or 3 strips then glue them together to get the right thickness. Below are some examples. Auto parts stores should have it but it might be fairly thin, some off road truck stores may have it also, and they may have thicker material, but if it is too rigid, it might not compress enough to seal well, however, the O ring will also seal a bit.


This material is around .060" thick, but it is professional grade and it might be hard to find something this thick.




This is the 2 strips standing on their edge.




This is the 2 strips together making it around .120" thick.





This is one type of header wrap, but you might be able to find some without the foil on it. If you try to peel the foil off, it may or may not pull off a lot of the insulation along with it.



.

[Jd110]

300r, not at ALL!! I’ve got one (1). It was a bit of a stretch but fits and the pipe fits nice and tight around the flange. If I can nail down the gas/oil mix, I’ll try to fire it up. Thanks for chiming in!
Barn, your posts are very helpful to me, thanks. This o-ring might be temporary.

Edit: ok barn, that’s a lot of info for me to think about. I should stop thinking about starting it for today.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

300r, not at ALL!! I’ve got one (1). It was a bit of a stretch but fits and the pipe fits nice and tight around the flange. If I can nail down the gas/oil mix, I’ll try to fire it up. Thanks for chiming in!
Barn, your posts are very helpful to me, thanks. This o-ring might be temporary.

I for one think you are fine with the 32:1 for your particular app, but others here that use your particular brand of oil will know. I am running 40:1 Maxima K2 in my 1980 YZ250 race bike and I beat the bejesus out of it the last 6 months on a used engine, and some of that was wot in 100 degree heat, and it hasn't seized yet.

As far as a temporary seal, using the 0 ring by itself is definitely sufficient, and I would put a little grease on it,however, it might spew a little exhaust onto your nice clean engine.

As far as the jetting goes, unless someone suggests something else, if you have the stock pipe and silencer and carb, and the engine is basically stock etc, I would probably go 1 up on the main from stock to start with if you are below around 1500 feet in elevation. If it has an aftermarket silencer, I might try 2 up on the main. It's safer to be a little rich than a little lean.


.

[Jd110]

I’m not positive what stock main jet size is I’ve read 150-158. Pretty sure it was 300r that said 152 somewhere. The closest one the Honda shop had was 152.5. My shindy kit came with 150. 148 came out of it(but that could be wrong). I’m going for it real soon. Today!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[barnett468]

My guess is that atc300r is likely correct, but I just looked at the online manual in the link below, and the best I can figure out is that the 81, 82, and 83 used the same main jet because there is no addendum for the carb for the 82, and no addendum for the main jet size for the 83. The jet listed at the beginning of the manual says it is a 158 for carb number PE23, and it in the 83 addendum, it states the 83 carb number is PE30, but this does not mean it would have a different main jet, but otherrs here that know these can tell you for certain.


http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

.

[barnett468]

Just for general info, the 85/86 manual says the following:

1985 - carb PE37A, main jet 142

1986 - carb P03A, main jet 145

.

[Jd110]

What a day!! I wanted to get back here before it got too late. You all know what this means.

First, I’d like to thank Yaegerb. His knowledge is amazing. This would have been much harder, if even possible, without him. Thanks to him, I changed my main this morning to a 158. Threw the shindy pilot in the trash and put back in the oem 50 pilot.

Anyway, this morning I put gas in the tank and it immediately leaked out of the petcock. I don’t think I ever cleaned it in the sonic cleaner so I did and that stopped the leak from the valve.

After I got that back together I put gas in it again and started kicking and gas poured out of the overflow tube. I took the carb apart to check the float. Don’t know why it leaked out, maybe because I opened it sideways this morning to change the jets. Put it back together and tried kicking some more with no sign of gas.

After just a few kicks—-WOW!! I’m in love...it sounds great to me.

300r, your trick worked wonderfully. I just finished the 2nd heat cycle and it’s not leaking, at all.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jd110]

I was happy it started and revved up good, a little surprised maybe, too. The next day I took it for a stroll, but it wasn’t ready.

It revs up good until it’s in gear, then just sputtering. It takes off just ok (while sputtering) then after about 1/2 throttle there is no increase in speed.
First, it started dumping fuel out of the overflow, again. Found that to be the float not set properly. Next, I put in a smaller main, but that didn’t work, either. Stuck a vacuum on the air inlet tube to see if it was clear-all good there.

When I blew out the muffler with air, before installing it, quit a bit of ‘stuff’ came out. Maybe packing materials or a mouse house? It did have good suction when I was done, as well as did the pipe.

So, I’ve got some detective work to do and no doubt that I’ll be still learning for a while.

1. The needle is not new, so I’ll put in the new one.
2. I was going to pull the air box lid off.
3. Need to check gas cap vent.
4. I’ll check the timing also and report back.

Any suggestions to help narrow my search
are always welcome. Everyone, have a great weekend!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[yaegerb]

Check ignition as well.