Originally Posted by
ps2fixer
Yea, 18 gauge wire is the standard goto size. It can handle something like 12 or 15 amps for a short distance. There's wire sizing calcs out there to show limits etc, longest wire run is like 6ft and that's to a 5-10w tail light.
The thing that is really critical though is the wire insulation. Most generic wire will melt at a low temp, you need some good quality high temp wire like 105C rated. I personally use purely high temp wire for all of my harnesses and sub harnesses. It's a bit stiffer, but who cares when it's not going to melt if it touches the exhaust pipe for a short time. I've hit my solder iron set to around 300c on the insulation before and not have it melt. The wire I use lumps into the more generic rating of GXL which is common for car injector harnesses that are located right on top of the engines.
I could make you full pig tails to get you all new wires for your stator for a pretty reasonable price. I'd just need to know the longest wire length.
The only thing I'm not sure of is if your machine has a wet style alternator or not (bathed in oil). My wire is speced for oil resistance, doesn't say oil proof, not sure what the effects would be if it lived it's life in oil. I should message my wire supplier and see what they say and I suspect they would recommend another product of theirs. Stator rewire kits might be a fairly good product though, of course the rewire part of that is stator to harness, not rewinding the stator.
Anyway, congrats on finding the issue, that's one of those things that can't be seen over the internet lol. Now I wonder, did you test the OEM coil directly on it, or though the wire for the 14k+ reading? Pretty sure that should be your root cause of the no fire, just seems to match up perfectly.