Help with my 1985 atc 200x

[ps2fixer]

Ahh cool stuff. I don't think I've ran into that problem before, so interesting it was just tuning.

[shortline10]

With 3.5 turns out on the air fuel screw that simply means the pilot jet is to small . But if it’s running fine and the Spark plug color is good then run it .

Are you sure the pulser is timed perfectly ? This would also affect the idle . With an aftermarket cam sometimes the stock locations won’t give you peak performance .

Ok so what I did was makes sure i had free play in the cable. I snugged the cable up at the thumb throttle. Then went and adjusted the pilot screw out to about 3.5 turns. I moved the e clip to the middle setting on the needle and everything seems good to go. That fixed the lag in the rpm's going down. I did check for leaks everything is good and tight, no intake leaks. About ready for a test ride. Maybe tomorrow.

[ps2fixer]

Update on the wire I have, my supplier says the wire is not suitable for submersion in oil. The rep sent me a copy of their product catalog (90 pages), so trying to go though the wire standards to see if I can find what one would be best for this application. Sadly it seems the actual spec write ups are not for public reading, I don't get why everything is based on something you can't even find a copy of what exactly the standard is.

[jb2wheels]

With 3.5 turns out on the air fuel screw that simply means the pilot jet is to small.

You read my mind. I like a nice, big fat pilot jet. Well, not too fat. Nicely padded. The biggest one that will still kill the engine with the mixture screw turned all the way in.

They start easier, run cooler, and don't lean pop.

[Tacky]

With 3.5 turns out on the air fuel screw that simply means the pilot jet is to small . But if it’s running fine and the Spark plug color is good then run it .

Are you sure the pulser is timed perfectly ? This would also affect the idle . With an aftermarket cam sometimes the stock locations won’t give you peak performance .

Thanks for the input, I ordered a new keihin #40 and #42 pilot jet for it. the smallest I had was a #45 which is what my the base setting pilot jet is for my 99 foreman 450s 4x4.I have a 45 through a 50 when I built that motor also with a wiesco high comp and web cam. So I am gonna try the #40 when it comes in, just less adjustment on the fuel screw.

As for the pulser, no I have not changed it off the factory manual setting, however its on my list of things to do.

Hey a few days off will allow the bruise and pain in my foot to subside.

[Tacky]

Update on the wire I have, my supplier says the wire is not suitable for submersion in oil. The rep sent me a copy of their product catalog (90 pages), so trying to go though the wire standards to see if I can find what one would be best for this application. Sadly it seems the actual spec write ups are not for public reading, I don't get why everything is based on something you can't even find a copy of what exactly the standard is.

Thanks for looking into it, The 18 gauge I used seems to be holding up so far. Around 2 hours of run time.

[Tacky]

You read my mind. I like a nice, big fat pilot jet. Well, not too fat. Nicely padded. The biggest one that will still kill the engine with the mixture screw turned all the way in.

They start easier, run cooler, and don't lean pop.

Yep trying to get away from the pop. Easier starting would be Awesome. Nice trikes in your collection.

[ps2fixer]

On the wire thing, the price per ft isn't too bad in somewhat bulk, but I'd have to buy 4 colors at once so it's a fair bit of cost to deal with. I'll have a sell a harness or two to have the funds to cover the order. I think this would be a good product for me to sell since replacement wire seems to be hard to find and I've seem the stator wires get damaged quite often. I have atleast 4 stators on hand that could use the lead wires replaced, that's why I got them, they were soldered to hacked up harnesses people didn't want.

For the wire you're using, if it's not designed for the oil exposure it will do one of two things over time. The wire insulation will swell up and get really soft, or the compounds that keeps the wire flexible are attacked by the oil and the wire gets very brittle and can crack/crumble. If it's good wire, you might not see the effect right away and it will be more in the area where the oil touches the wire. The tests that I've seen on it are to put the wire in oil and heat it up (can't remember the temp), but they keep it hot for 7 days, then test the effects on the insulation. Oil resistant wire will perform better, the stuff I found has a great rating for oil resistance (I guess nothing is oil proof). It's also rated for 200C, my other wire is high temp, but is rated 105C. Typical automotive primary wire is rated 60-80C like you'd buy in the auto parts store.

Do you know if the wire you used is GXL automotive wire?

Anyway, the wire I found is silicone rubber insulated, with a fiberglass braid covering. Looks exactly like stator wire I've seen in the past (with the wire cut), so pretty sure this is the same or very close to the same as what OEM used. Here's a pic to see for yourself (notice the inner insulation, then fiberglass outer layer).

[Tacky]

On the wire thing, the price per ft isn't too bad in somewhat bulk, but I'd have to buy 4 colors at once so it's a fair bit of cost to deal with. I'll have a sell a harness or two to have the funds to cover the order. I think this would be a good product for me to sell since replacement wire seems to be hard to find and I've seem the stator wires get damaged quite often. I have atleast 4 stators on hand that could use the lead wires replaced, that's why I got them, they were soldered to hacked up harnesses people didn't want.

For the wire you're using, if it's not designed for the oil exposure it will do one of two things over time. The wire insulation will swell up and get really soft, or the compounds that keeps the wire flexible are attacked by the oil and the wire gets very brittle and can crack/crumble. If it's good wire, you might not see the effect right away and it will be more in the area where the oil touches the wire. The tests that I've seen on it are to put the wire in oil and heat it up (can't remember the temp), but they keep it hot for 7 days, then test the effects on the insulation. Oil resistant wire will perform better, the stuff I found has a great rating for oil resistance (I guess nothing is oil proof). It's also rated for 200C, my other wire is high temp, but is rated 105C. Typical automotive primary wire is rated 60-80C like you'd buy in the auto parts store.

Do you know if the wire you used is GXL automotive wire?

Anyway, the wire I found is silicone rubber insulated, with a fiberglass braid covering. Looks exactly like stator wire I've seen in the past (with the wire cut), so pretty sure this is the same or very close to the same as what OEM used. Here's a pic to see for yourself (notice the inner insulation, then fiberglass outer layer).

Not quite sure on the wire I used but im gonna check it.

On a positive note I did score a front sprocket cover since the one I had been missing since I bought in 1997. So I am getting a used one to refurb. That will protect the wires and case from chain damage. I also scored the following parts.

Used rear tailight and bracket, which was missing as well.
The rear fender decal, reproduction
Side warning decals
Year model chrome decal for frame
New gas tank decals
Rear brake master cylinder, factory was shot

Gonna replace the rear brake caliper, and getting a new brake line for the extended swingarm.

I am also thinking about getting away from the plastic fuel tank, and going back with a good stock metal one.

[Rob Canadian]

Not quite sure on the wire I used but im gonna check it.

On a positive note I did score a front sprocket cover since the one I had been missing since I bought in 1997. So I am getting a used one to refurb. That will protect the wires and case from chain damage. I also scored the following parts.

Used rear tailight and bracket, which was missing as well.
The rear fender decal, reproduction
Side warning decals
Year model chrome decal for frame
New gas tank decals
Rear brake master cylinder, factory was shot

Gonna replace the rear brake caliper, and getting a new brake line for the extended swingarm.

I am also thinking about getting away from the plastic fuel tank, and going back with a good stock metal one.

Covers for the front sprocket are hard to come by. Nice score.
What did you get for a rear master cylinder?
If you buy one of those cheap rear calipers of ebay or whatever. Keep in mind the pads are JUNK. Get a good set of pads. Side note: the Moose Racing qualifier pads have less meat on them compaired to a set of EBC pads.

[Tacky]

Covers for the front sprocket are hard to come by. Nice score.
What did you get for a rear master cylinder?
If you buy one of those cheap rear calipers of ebay or whatever. Keep in mind the pads are JUNK. Get a good set of pads. Side note: the Moose Racing qualifier pads have less meat on them compaired to a set of EBC pads.

Got the cover for $100, it was not cheap, but I needed one, and as you said they are hard to come by. Think their is one on ebay right now for $150. I got an aftermarket rear master cylinder around $90, I would have rebuilt the oem however its piston is stuck in the top, and cannot get it out. Its full of rust. Its seen better days. I may be able to use my rear brake caliper, plan on tearing it down and inspecting it. I plan on using the ebc pads, I have used ebc's many times in the past, and never an issue. Got a recommendation for a rear caliper, if the original cannot be reused.

[Tacky]

Well, according to the tracking the tail light, and few other parts arrived today. Now ready to get off duty at 7am and go home and
tinker.

[Tacky]

Scored an original 85 tank, no dents, and a few other parts, now I wait for them to arrive. In the mean time a few pics of my progress.

[350for350]

It's looking pretty good. WAY better than the 85 that I picked up in December 2017. MAN! I really need to get started on that thing!

[Tacky]

It's looking pretty good. WAY better than the 85 that I picked up in December 2017. MAN! I really need to get started on that thing!

Man that is gonna be some work, however thats the same condition I got mine in in 1997, the motor was also like that. In 150 pieces atleast.

I am lucky, I know the original owner that purchased it in 1985. He bought it from a mechanic at the honda shop. I also know the second owner, which is who I bought it from. Originally they had painted the frame blue, along with the blue hubs. It had white plastic like the 86 or 87 but not the same pattern. It has an aftermarket white plastic gas tank. It had no muffler. I did have a ram stabilizer which i still have just need the rear mounting bracket for the motor end. The airbox was removed and they had put a 28mm mikuni flatside carb on it. The spark plug threads were stripped, had to put a helicoil in it too. The rear axle had been swapped for a +4 one, still do not know the maker, but doesn't use 200x rrear sprockets, bolt pattern matches the 83 185s sprocket, which is whats on it 40 teeth. The original owner had a really bad wreck on it, and bent the swingarm pretty badly. He sold it to the second owmer that rode it that way for years, so long it wore the front tire at an angle. Well when I got it I put it back togather to riding condition, but nothing like it is now. I started on really going through it in 2006 but never completed it. Thats when I purchased the maier plastic on it. I fabricated a new swingarm that +6 out of steel, that corrected the lean. In 2006 I started on my 2000 foreman around that time, it is heavily modified. Here is the foreman I built.