Originally Posted by
ps2fixer
I think you're underestimating how strong steel is, even with surface rust. It's the pitted/flaked out rust you have to worry about. How's the exhaust besides the flange? I probably have a junk rusted out exhaust with a desent flange/pipe if you can weld or know someone. Since it's broken right at the flange, it's probably not ideal to try to fix it.
For the rims, sand them down, repaint and they will look like new again, unless it has heavy pitting. If that's the case and you want pretty rims, use some body filler to fill the pits, sand it smooth and paint. I've NEVER seen a rim so rusty it crumbles, only so rusty it leaks air and I've seen some BAD rims lol. On the frame, depending how it's bent, it could be possible to bend it back, but it would take some fancy work to get things just right, probably best to leave it as is as long as it doesn't drive/ride weird. Again if you're into welding and such, I could probably cut off the neck of a 200es frame and ship it your way. Also whoever does the weld work better be good, no bubble gum welds like on that exhaust flange.
Nvm on the frame, it looks like the pipe is collapsed pretty bad, so yea pretty weak for running into things, should be fine for normal riding and such, just don't push anything with it.
Also that redneck way of dismounting tires is a horrible way to do it, I've tried it before and never had success. Easier way is to drive your truck tire over the tire and ride it as close to the bead as possible. It takes a few attempts but works fairly well. It's more ideal for larger tires though, atv tires it's trying to take too much off at once. I've done it that way or when it's really bad, with a tire maul for car/truck/semi rims. My dad inherited a huge pile of tires when his dad died, and the tire recycler either charged more for with rims, or wouldn't accept them with rims, so we broke down a 16x8 trailer loaded about 7-8ft tall with tires all broken down by hand. Hauled in the rims to pay the cost of recycling them and maybe a tiny bit extra for a "profit". I got pretty good at taking down those 16.5in split style rims used on bigger trucks back a long time ago.
Looks like you'd need a lead pipe for your machine too, it's looking rusty enough that it's getting thin. I think they tend to break though on the bottom side were water would drip off when wet. Might have one in usable shape laying around, I'll have to check the shed further back on my property though. If you are planning to replace the whole exhaust system with all new, it wouldn't hurt to just weld the exaust head pipe to the exhaust pipe, just it will be trashed and unusable once you cut it back off.
Anyway, update on the air box now that it's warmed up. The airbox to frame rubber boot is pretty good, soft and flexible and I don't see any cracks. The carb one is a bit stiff but not rock hard, but the top side has about a 1/4in crack at the clamp area, might be usable but probably would want to atleast RTV seal it up when installing. Also I noticed the actual airbox has a melted hold in the side of it, but I think you already have an air box anyway. Also make sure your air box has the exhaust shield, it screws on, this one here is in good shape.
I'll run out and check for the lid screws and such, also have to try to dig up a seat pan for another member.