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Thread: Any ideas of a small simple part to reproduce? (3D CAD Plastic/Rubber Parts)

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Western NY
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    50
    Here is a CAD rendering of the '86/'87 taillight pin, P/N 33716-HA6-680:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I can output different file formats (.stp, .stl, etc.) depending on what your 3D printer uses for input. Please let me know if you would like to print a couple and I'll send you the CAD file.
    1987 Honda 250SX
    1987 Honda 200X

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Any reason the tip is hollow? If it's not notched out probably best to leave it solid.

    Only photo I see of the part is in this listing based on the part number you posted.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/183754928335

    When I was making up the cad drawing, I was cheating the system by adding little tabs to connect an array of like 100 pins together to lower costs. Sadly 3d printing a part leaves a lot of lines and such but I'm still research out options. I'm thinking about learning more about silicone pour molding and such.

    I've been kind of slow to buy the required stuff to make molds and such, just a bit tight on money, have to expand the business slowly or things can go bad fast.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    1,326
    Ps2fixer, for about $20-30 you can start to play around with molding. A little plastilina clay too for mold making is kinda cheap.
    At your nearest micheals craft store, buy this (pic) for smalls it works fine. If and when your ready I’ll send u plastic (or rubber) 2-part base sample for the actual part.
    For a mold release u can use Vaseline (it works) in a pinch. But would recommend a release spray that contains no silicone when mold making (it’ll act like a binding agent) I can suggest one in the future if you would like.
    The toughest thing about molding is finding a nice part to mold.
    Believe me I’m no expert..... I have more fun molding a piece to see the outcome than the actual selling, that’s my problem
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Shep

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Thanks for the info, I was looking at like $60 for the 70A mix and that much or more for the mold material (wasn't 100% sure what to order to make the molds from). Color dyes and such I'd think would be fairly cheap though.

    Since talking to another person that does 3d printing and plastic molding, there's some tricks with 3d printing and ABS plastics to make a glass smooth part, but it's effectively melting the surface of the plastic so shape and dimensions could go out of spec. I figured small parts like these would pretty much have to be made that way, finding donor parts would pretty much require NOS parts that's never been installed.

    I'd first have to get good at molding parts for 1 at a time, but in theory it should be possible to up the production numbers by making runners and molding up say 10 in a mold. I'm sure venting and such would be critical to get right with bigger runs like that though, I know for even single parts it can be a real challenge.

    Also, as part of the instructions I was reading on the 70A mix, sounds like it pretty much calls for a vacuum chamber to pull bubbles out of the mix before the pour, and a pressure chamber after it's poured. Don't have either right now, but I do have a small like 1hp vacuum pump, and a crappy little air compressor which should work. Maybe I shouldn't target a rubber part as a first target.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    1,326
    Yup, bubbles/trapped air is my worst enemy. Yes you can vent but remember the material will also clog up vent lines/holes.
    You could spend hours de-clogging those vents, ok maybe not that long but it is frustrating. The more vents you have the more locked together the mold halves are. If that makes sense.
    I generally pour about 1/3 more mix than is needed just so when putting a two part mold together some squishes out and any air usually follows.
    Colors are about $10 per 1oz from alumilite (two small drops for dash mold for an example) it lasts a while (the alumilite brand dye is the easiest to work with) I’ve found. Oh there’s silicone dyes from China also -don’t be tempted-
    Yes a plastic part would be easier for your first trial.

    Check out smooth-on, alumilite, and Reynolds advanced material for free catalogs.
    The Reynolds company is 30mins from my house I’ve had the boss man drop off casting stuff on his way home from work twice- he lives the next town over from me just off the same st. You’d think I’d get a discount, kidding- the three are good companies never had issues. They speak English too.
    Just a random catalog pic-Click image for larger version. 

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    Shep
    Yes a vacume chamber should be on your wishlist but u can learn a lot without one
    It’s the pressure chambers that are the big$$$. Maybe someday

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Well I grew up with a cutting torch and a welder, so if something is expensive to buy, build it your self =). Pressure chamber shouldn't be too hard to build, but building something that's quick to seal and pressurize is probably quite a challenge. Vacuum chamber shouldn't be so bad, for small mixes, just a glass jar upside down should be strong enough for the vacuum plus you get to see what's going on. I'll have to check out some designs and see how viable it is to build one. Clearly starting with something that's already designed for 100+ psi wouldn't be a bad idea.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Western NY
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    50
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Any reason the tip is hollow? If it's not notched out probably best to leave it solid.

    Only photo I see of the part is in this listing based on the part number you posted.

    [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/183754928335[/url
    Nope, again the '85 is different from the '86/'87. The entire piece is hollow back to the large diameter end. Even if there are lines or extra material from the printing process, they can be trimmed with a razor knife. If the ID were solid, it would probably work fine, just wouldn't be factory looking.
    1987 Honda 250SX
    1987 Honda 200X

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Is the part in that ebay listing the wrong one? I looked it up based on the part number, but it has a center rib and your CAD is missing that. It's kind of weird that the pin is hollow, maybe it was to make the part cost a penny cheaper in materials or something.

    Here's a part I paid to have 3D printed. It's a bit more work than a little touch up. Based on my chat with another person that owns a 3D printer, it could have been printed a lot smoother, sounds like I got ripped off by the company printing off a low quality print.


  9. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Charleston, SC
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    32
    If you need some parts 3d printed I can do some under 150mm in size, just pm me if you want anything.

    I wonder if it would be better to have those taillight pins made out of metal instead? Seems it would be relatively simple to turn down on a lathe

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Sadly, I don't have access to a metal lathe, wish I did though. Ideally could make one from metal as a "master" and mold it up, then make enough to make a larger mold to do say 4-10 at a time. I was planning to have a 10x10 grid printed of the 350x head light plastic pins, but based on how the 3d printed part came out above, I kind of scrapped that idea. I was trying to cheat their pricing system a bit lol.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Indiana
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    455
    I have access to a 3D printer at work as well if you need a small part in a pinch. I do new product development for a living, so I work w/ CAD software and 3D Printers daily. Our printer primarily runs ABS plastic and you can change the "slicce" layer setting from .005" to .130". If we are printing parts to make them "show" quality, we print on the .005" layer and then bondo and sand smooth. I'm not sure how well the bondo will mesh w/ the mold making process though.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    Quote Originally Posted by newby200x View Post
    I have access to a 3D printer at work as well if you need a small part in a pinch. I do new product development for a living, so I work w/ CAD software and 3D Printers daily. Our printer primarily runs ABS plastic and you can change the "slicce" layer setting from .005" to .130". If we are printing parts to make them "show" quality, we print on the .005" layer and then bondo and sand smooth. I'm not sure how well the bondo will mesh w/ the mold making process though.
    Just putting this out there, through trial and error bondo doesn’t work well with silicone rubbers or epoxy. If the part were to be sealed with a lacquer first it does better though but not good. Not sure if it’s the heat generated during curing or chemical.
    I tried a brake master rubber cover 3-part mold, it failed every way it could (using bondo) outer shell, epoxy inner
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	258933. Tried JB weld too, turned to mush

    There is this product (pic) never tried it thoughClick image for larger version. 

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    Alright I’m done, figured I’d add my 2-cents
    Have a great day, I hope them early trikefesters are staying dry.........
    Shep
    Last edited by Shep1970; 06-18-2019 at 08:43 AM.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Western NY
    --
    50
    It appears that you are correct that you were ripped off by the company that 3D printed that part for you. Surface finishes are a lot better than that, and should not have any lines. You should be able to print that pin and have it come out looking just like the CAD rendering.

    I don't believe that the ebay ad is the correct part number. The pin for the '85 is P/N 33716-964-000, and the '86/'87 is 33716-HA6-680.

    I'm thinking the hole was a material cost savings for Honda. Making thousands of those, the material that would fill that hole could get you "free" material about every fifth part. Functionally, it wouldn't make any difference if it was there or not.
    1987 Honda 250SX
    1987 Honda 200X

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Indiana
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    455
    There is this product (pic) never tried it thoughClick image for larger version. 

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    Interesting product...would be fun to try out and see how well it performs.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Two people confirming the 3d print is low quality, so must be true lol. I'd say avoid xometry for 3D printing then.

    https://www.xometry.com/

    I wonder how good the tail light pins are on my 85 atc250sx, it's a fairly untouched machine. I thought the pin was for an 86-87 250sx. Should be pretty easy to push the pin out from the back side with something round and flat to avoid marking up the OEM part.

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