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Thread: Any ideas of a small simple part to reproduce? (3D CAD Plastic/Rubber Parts)

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    That paint on stuff was something I kind of was thinking probably existed but didn't search for it lol. Would be interesting to know a bit more about what exactly it is to have a better idea on wear characteristics and such.

  2. #77
    newby200x's Avatar
    newby200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I don't think you got ripped off based on the pic. It looks like it was printed on a FDM machine, which is basically just printing layers of plastic on top of each other. This is the same type of machine I use at my workplace. I think you should enquire about the SLA or SLS version to get a better surface finish. I believe an SLA print will provide the best, smoothest finish out of all available options they list.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #78
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    I see, they had a lot of options, so hard to know what one to pick with out knowing much about 3d printers, so it could have been my fault too.

    Looks like you're right, it's FDM. I thought I avoided it, but I was also trying to keep this test part cheap so it was probably 1/2 the cost or something of the other options.




    Here's the price quote for SLA, and shipping is like $15.




    For SLS the only material offered is Nylon and no color options, I was going for black.




    Prices on their site do get cheaper with higher qty, but it doesn't drop too fast.

  4. #79
    newby200x's Avatar
    newby200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I was slightly involved during the research and purchasing phase when we got our 3D printer. I knew there were several machines out there available, all w/ their pro's and con's. Surface finish, functionality, and rigidity all come into play when choosing the type of 3D print. I'm sure you could read Google for a complete day on the differences between all of them. I know the best way to think of an FDM machine is just a CNC controlled hot melt glue gun making layer after layer.

  5. #80
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Two people confirming the 3d print is low quality, so must be true lol. I'd say avoid xometry for 3D printing then.

    https://www.xometry.com/

    I wonder how good the tail light pins are on my 85 atc250sx, it's a fairly untouched machine. I thought the pin was for an 86-87 250sx. Should be pretty easy to push the pin out from the back side with something round and flat to avoid marking up the OEM part.
    I pushed mine out with my thumb. They should slide out of the grommet pretty easily. When I grabbed the larger end to pull it out, the plastic crumbled, probably due to it's age and sun exposure over the years. I was still able to get pretty accurate measurements between both pins to create the CAD model.
    1987 Honda 250SX
    1987 Honda 200X

  6. #81
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    Apr 2012
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    Well I do need a small part to try to mold up for silicone pour style molding, seems like a hard plastic pin would be pretty ideal for a learning part, simple shape and such.

  7. #82
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    Jan 2009
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    Louisiana
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    Sorry, I missed this thread. The 86/87 200X rear shock flap was mentioned early on. I have an unopened OEM model I could lend to the reproduction process if it would help.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...c430dfcd841364

  8. #83
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    Apr 2012
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    I'll keep you in mind, if I get something rolling and get some good success, I'll make a mold of the part and make a "master" copy. I'll shoot you a pm if/when I'm ready, thanks for offering up the part to borrow though. I'm not even super sure what it's for, like something to keep the chain from slapping around? The parts diagram doesn't really click for me what it does lol.

    Talking about NOS parts, I also have a couple of the square like 250es style dash inserts that says honda. Probably another part I'll mold up since they discontinued this year. It's probably a bit of a challenge to make since it's pretty thin and a lot of spots for air bubbles to get trapped.

  9. #84
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    Its these, they go on the bottom of the rear shock and hook on a tang on the swingarm.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    There is a mold I made off a nos one floating around in massachusetts at this time but molds don’t last forever, he’s gotta stop playin’ with his new kitten and start pouring.

    Shep

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep1970 View Post
    There is a mold I made off a nos one floating around in massachusetts at this time but molds don’t last forever, he’s gotta stop playin’ with his new kitten and start pouring.

    Shep
    I've been drunk on kittens before. It wasn't pretty. Not much worth a f*** got done during that time period, I'll tell ya that

    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  11. #86
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep1970 View Post
    Its these, they go on the bottom of the rear shock and hook on a tang on the swingarm.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    There is a mold I made off a nos one floating around in massachusetts at this time but molds don’t last forever, he’s gotta stop playin’ with his new kitten and start pouring.

    Shep
    YOU FARKER!!! I did order my "JUICE"... I've been working on this track since last spring and if it stops raining, I'll be done!!

    Then I can make some parts

    Thank you Sheppy....
    WHO IS Q?? WWG1WGA!!


    86 ATC200X Flatrack ( I may not be fast but this is one FAST 200X!!

    86 ATC350X Motocross, 86 ATC452X Flatrack!!

    07 Weekend Warrior Toy Hauler

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