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Thread: Any ideas of a small simple part to reproduce? (3D CAD Plastic/Rubber Parts)

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Based on what I've read, laser cutting is more accurate, cheaper to run, and cuts faster than water jet. Nice benefit of laser cutting is there's no part cleanup afterwards, the water jet the abrasive has to be cleaned off. It seems most things laser cutting is ideal for, but water cutting can be used for special cases that laser cutting can't do. This is all just google results, so very possible info is outdated etc.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    CT
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    206
    I really like the idea of the metal ignition mount plate. The one thing that stopped me from ordering an ignition switch was that I couldn't find a "dash" that I was happy with, and even though I did find some universal mounts, I wasn't sure how well they'd fit. If you had a bolt on kit I think that would be ideal!

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
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    1,065
    Laser is faster but for a high carbon or tool steel part water wouldn’t work harden the part.
    A tool for every job and every tool has its positives and negatives.
    I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Maryland
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    3,077
    Plasma will leave some slag on the edge and require belt sanding cleanup of each part. Laser/water jet would produce the closest thing to a "sale ready" part. Like we talked about I'm going to cut out a few of your mounts out of quarter inch thick billet hopefully this weekend. At least then you'll have another option in hand for comparison etc etc.
    And that's the rest of the story. ~ Paul Harvey

    "Yes its broken, but does that really surprise you?."
    "What happened? What does it look like happened?!?!"

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Oregon
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    591
    Quote Originally Posted by newby200x View Post
    For flat sheet metal parts like this, you may want to investigate a local CNC plasma or CNC laser outfit. They can burn out 100's at a time and the cost is usually very reasonable. No set up time, or tooling required.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here are some parts I had our shop laser burn out for my gasser project. Bolt on front shock brackets, and brackets for home built style Caltracs traction bars. All out of1/4” plate.
    Trikes owned:
    83 Honda 200x "Liquid X"
    81 DG 250r : Sold

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Quote Originally Posted by floydechoes2000 View Post
    I really like the idea of the metal ignition mount plate. The one thing that stopped me from ordering an ignition switch was that I couldn't find a "dash" that I was happy with, and even though I did find some universal mounts, I wasn't sure how well they'd fit. If you had a bolt on kit I think that would be ideal!
    That's the plan, a bolt on ready to go kit. Just to validate, are you planning to use the ignition switch I'd supply with the kit, or were you wanting to modify a Honda switch. The mount hole size is slightly different between the two. The switch I supply works with the Honda mount size, it just isn't as snug as I like it so I designed these plates based on making the size slightly smaller to fit my part better, but the Honda switch might not fit at all. Modifying my drawing to fit the Honda switch is easy and isn't much of a price difference if I have it all in one order so I just need to know if I should order a couple or not for that special case. Do you prefer the single bolt hole style, or the dual bolt hold style (updated design below, it bolts on directly where the handle bar clamps bolt on). I'm not super happy with the overall look of the "full dash" plate, but it's not too bad. The top two bolt mounts look too much like washers in my mind, but that will be covered up by bolts pretty well anyway. I had to make the top cut down quite low because of how the stock clamps have a raised section between the bolt holes in the clamp. Maybe I'm just too critical of my own work though.


  7. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Here's a random find for the 86-87 atc200x frame end caps. I'm not sure what size the frame tubing is though. Black instead of Red, but keeping water/rust out of the tubing vs not having them is a nice option if they are the right size. There's also some related parts that are similar in design.

    https://www.amazon.com/Square-Tubing.../dp/B005QNBN0W

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    CT
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    206
    Personally I like the double mount plate, and I'd be going with your ignition switch. If you could make one work with my 86 TRX250R I'd be very interested in one for that machine as well as my 350X.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    I don't have a TRX250R harness yet, so I'd need to see the handle bar connectors and how far away that connection point is vs the handle bars. The 350x works well with my KS105R switch, ~9in long. I suspect the wiring is similar to the 350x, but even if it's the modern reversed kill switch setup I can wire the ignition switch for it. Also if you can get a somewhat accurate measurement of the handle bar mounting spacing, that would be great. The 350x is 140mm center to center, I suspect the TRX model is more like 100mm like my TRX350D, TRX250X, TRX250, etc. I have the service manual for the machine, so I can validate how to wire it and what wires need to be tapped into and such.

    I like both plate styles, but I'm not sure how many to have cut of each lol. Now that you mentioned about the TRX model, I probably should copy the design and tweak it for the narrower TRX bolt pattern too.

    For the 350x kit I'm thinking $65 shipped within the USA.

    $23 for ignition switch (Replacement switch is KS105R and I have them currently listed for $26 shipped).
    $20 for adapter harness (goes inline between main harness and handle bar controls and gives the extra two connections for the ignition switch to work)
    $20 for the larger "dash" in aluminum (I'm thinking $10 for the smaller one).

    For the TRX model, the switch and plate will be the same, but I'm unsure what connectors are needed. If nothing super special or anything, then same price as well.

    I'm thinking those prices should be pretty fair for both sides of the transaction. If it seems overly expensive or low price, let me know and I'll see what I can do. The metal cutting has a lead time of 2 weeks + shipping time, so trying to get anything and everything I can think of cut all at once to get the best deal possible besides the better shipping costs.


    I'm also thinking of a slightly different design for the large plate. I'll keep a copy of this layout as an option too, but I'll post up a pic of my updated idea. Trying to make it look as good as possible.

    FYI, the finish will be raw aluminum. It would be just fine as is, but there's nearly endless options for different finishes on it. The laser cutting business doesn't offer anything for surface finish though and as posted before, I'm in the middle of nowhere, so not a whole lot of options locally for me. I suspect they would buff/polish up nice and be a bit of a bling effect if you're into that look.


    I suspect I need to get the handle bar spacing size for a Tri-Z and Tecate too. I don't see why those machines would be any different for this option besides the mount plate and having the right connectors for the adapter harness. I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, I'll have to test fit the dash on my machine to ensure it's all good with the updated design.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    I think this looks a bit better/polished. Calling this v2 of the large dash.



    I also could just center the ignition switch, but I think the offset look is pretty good too.
    Last edited by ps2fixer; 01-25-2019 at 06:18 AM.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    Laser is not more accurate than waterjet

    I've actually programmed both types of machines and my Omax 50x100 could waterjet within +/- .001 on sheet metal in most instances and I had much less trouble out of that machine than the Mazak laser. They both seemed to have about the same accuracy and repeatability as each other

    Much of waterjet overhead comes from the garnet media they use and the consumables like the nozzles which are made of carbide and have a Ruby, diamond, or sapphire orifice to concentrate the stream. We used garnet which was much cheaper than diamonds obviously. You get two things, 80,000 psi water and an abrasive media. A waterjet will start to cut tapered in much thicker materials which is why we had aTilt-a-Jet head which comps for that taper and eliminates it.

    The Mazak laser had much higher overhead and repair costs than the Omax waterjet and required liquid nitrogen to cool it because the electronics inside the machine easily overheats. Hopefully Mazak addressed this problem since those days but our Laser was a one year old pain in the rear most days and the Omax was ten years old and still ran like a top. Pumps are very easy to rebuild as well.

    Waterjet also easily cuts plastics, wood, and stone materials. I cut alot of granite countertops on that thing, so it's much more versatile than a laser
    Last edited by ironchop; 01-25-2019 at 02:22 PM.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    17,438
    Quote Originally Posted by fabiodriven View Post
    I appreciate anyone who makes these obsolete plastic parts greatly. It has been a game changer in our community. In 2005 there was a lot of stuff discontinued already, and those parts became unobtainium. There was nothing anyone could do when they needed these obsolete items! There are so many things you guys make now that I can't even keep track of them all, it's amazing!

    I don't know how those taillight pins are available, I literally just checked for those last week. I must have made a mistake.

    Does anyone make the clutch adjustment cap for the SX's?

    #19 in the picture
    I think this is what you need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22850-HA0-0....c100040.m2060




    And that's the kind of PROFIT people can make selling old NOS parts. I doubt you'd pay that much, nor would I, but that is a super easy part to make...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    CT
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    206
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    I don't have a TRX250R harness yet, so I'd need to see the handle bar connectors and how far away that connection point is vs the handle bars. The 350x works well with my KS105R switch, ~9in long. I suspect the wiring is similar to the 350x, but even if it's the modern reversed kill switch setup I can wire the ignition switch for it. Also if you can get a somewhat accurate measurement of the handle bar mounting spacing, that would be great. The 350x is 140mm center to center, I suspect the TRX model is more like 100mm like my TRX350D, TRX250X, TRX250, etc. I have the service manual for the machine, so I can validate how to wire it and what wires need to be tapped into and such.

    I like both plate styles, but I'm not sure how many to have cut of each lol. Now that you mentioned about the TRX model, I probably should copy the design and tweak it for the narrower TRX bolt pattern too.

    For the 350x kit I'm thinking $65 shipped within the USA.

    $23 for ignition switch (Replacement switch is KS105R and I have them currently listed for $26 shipped).
    $20 for adapter harness (goes inline between main harness and handle bar controls and gives the extra two connections for the ignition switch to work)
    $20 for the larger "dash" in aluminum (I'm thinking $10 for the smaller one).

    For the TRX model, the switch and plate will be the same, but I'm unsure what connectors are needed. If nothing super special or anything, then same price as well.

    I'm thinking those prices should be pretty fair for both sides of the transaction. If it seems overly expensive or low price, let me know and I'll see what I can do. The metal cutting has a lead time of 2 weeks + shipping time, so trying to get anything and everything I can think of cut all at once to get the best deal possible besides the better shipping costs.


    I'm also thinking of a slightly different design for the large plate. I'll keep a copy of this layout as an option too, but I'll post up a pic of my updated idea. Trying to make it look as good as possible.

    FYI, the finish will be raw aluminum. It would be just fine as is, but there's nearly endless options for different finishes on it. The laser cutting business doesn't offer anything for surface finish though and as posted before, I'm in the middle of nowhere, so not a whole lot of options locally for me. I suspect they would buff/polish up nice and be a bit of a bling effect if you're into that look.


    I suspect I need to get the handle bar spacing size for a Tri-Z and Tecate too. I don't see why those machines would be any different for this option besides the mount plate and having the right connectors for the adapter harness. I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, I'll have to test fit the dash on my machine to ensure it's all good with the updated design.
    I think your price is right in line with what I was thinking. I have next Friday off, I may be able to get some measurements/photos of the TRX harness then, as well as a good look to see where a good place to mount it would be. I think the plate might be too low and too close to the gas tank but I'm not sure.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    When you get the measurements for the bar mount spacing, also check how close the tank is at full right turn or whenever the right mount bolt is closes to the tank. The plate is designed at 60mm (2.3622in or about 2 3/8in) for the distance from center of the mounting bolt straight down distance to the very bottom of the plate. If it's too close to the tank, I could re clock the ignition switch hole so you'd just bolt it on top of the bar clamps instead of the lower ones.

    I just did a ruff check and the 200ES dash is about 50mm. The 10mm difference is just over 3/8in. It makes much of a difference, I could center the ignition switch between the handle bar clamp bolt location. That should make the distance less likely to interfere, but if you can get measurements to double check that would be good.

    Anyway, lots of options at this point, so I'm sure one way or another I can figure out a plate that will work.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Western NY
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    50
    The taillight pins for the 250sx that are still available are for the '85. The '86/'87 pins are slightly different and are discontinued. I just pulled my taillight off and broke one of mine. All of the ones on fleabay are broken as well. I'll post up a drawing if I can get one together. Should be easy to print.
    1987 Honda 250SX
    1987 Honda 200X

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