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Thread: US90 torque improvement

  1. #16
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    It’s supposed to be Parrot green I assume.
    That's only because Honda couldn't outright call it KAWASAKI Green.



    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    I didn’t paint it. It came to me that way.
    I know, and that is exactly what makes it so funny....to some.



    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    The rest of the joke went over my head.
    That's ok, if you hang around here long enough you will eventually understand it.

  2. #17
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    I would think that the trailer rims would dig into the ground if you have much weight in the trailer. That would make it harder to pull.

  3. #18
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    Sounds like a big bore kit is in order then. I see 54mm pistons available, but no cylinders is it safe to assume I can bore the standard cylinder to 54MM?
    Ok, I know very little about these, so unless someone extremely knowledgeable here posts info regarding converting it to a big bore, I would send a pm to shortline10 whom is a member here, and/or call or email beatrice cycle and get more info from them.

    From the beatrice cycle (dr atv) ad below, it seems as though 53.5 mm is the smallest "big bore" piston they carry, and that the standard cylinder can in fact be bored out that far. It looks like they only have 1 larger piston option from that which is 54 mm. You do not want to go 54 if you can get away with 53.5 unless you want to buy another cylinder if you ever need to bore it again, but they may be fairly cheap on ebay etc, and if so, it is no big deal, in which case you might just want to go for the gusto and bore it to 54 mm the first time. If it is done properly, and high quality oil is used, and the engine is not overheated etc, you will probably be dead and buried long before you wear it out. There may also be an aftermarket kit with an aluminum cylinder, which is likely the way i would go if there is, but shortline10 or someone else here may know for certain.

    http://dratv.com/ctatsts90cls.html

    .

  4. #19
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    What about exhaust and carb? Can I get by with a re-jet to get the most out of it or should I get a 110 carb? I would prefer not to change the exhaust as it took me forever to find the correct one.
    These are more complicated questions, so I will try to give you a brief and simplified answer.

    In general, if put the big bore piston in it, and you only plan on revving the engine to maybe 1/2 of it's maximum rpm ability, then you can in fact easily get away with the stock carb and pipe etc. If you plan to race around on it and rev it out, then you will greatly benefit from a slightly larger carb and high perf pipe, or at least a pipe with a straight thru silencer/muffler or a supertrap style, and without a spark arrestor, but obviously these can be obnoxiously loud.

    If it is currently perfectly jetted, you will definitely have to rejet it if you go to 53.5 or 54 mm oversize, and I would start with a main jet that is 2 sizes bigger than stock, but you may eventually find that just 1 size bigger than stock is enough providing you do not make any other changes like a different pipe etc.

    Also, if your air filter is pretty old, make sure it is not disintegrating. This can easily be done by simply pinching a small piece of it then trying to pull it off. If the piece comes off, the filter is junk.

    .

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cribbs74 View Post
    It’s supposed to be Parrot green I assume. I didn’t paint it. It came to me that way. The rest of the joke went over my head.

    Yes, rubber would be good, they roll just fine on the grass probably with less rolling resistance on the thin steel than with rubber. Glad I could provide you with some humor.

    ATC’s aren’t super common around here and the ones that do pop up need some serious work. So if I am going to spend money might as well do it with what I have.

    Ron
    Hay good evening Ron, nice collection of rides. When you get done pussyfooting around with the SHOP'S and the other guy, I can help you with your needs for your 90. It sounds like you need to freshen up the top-end : a mild-mid range cam, a new piston kit, re-jet the carb and a aftermarket exhaust. I have all this in stock. When your ready just PM me. JW
    * 1970 US90 Red
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    * 1978 ATC 90/128 Bandito / Ace Williams Springer.
    * 1980 ATC 110/ ? Helm&Son, Dickson Full Suspended
    * 1981 ATC 110 MTC Full Supended
    * 1985 ATC 200s
    *1986 ATC 250R/310 2"+ Westcoast Swinger

    http://www.ebay.com/usr/jwheeler760

  6. #21
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwheeler View Post
    When you get done pussyfooting around with the SHOP'S and the other guy, I can help you with your needs for your 90. It sounds like you need to freshen up the top-end : a mild-mid range cam, a new piston kit, re-jet the carb and a aftermarket exhaust. I have all this in stock. When your ready just PM me. JW
    OMG...I definitely just peed my pants...and I think my spleen burst too!

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  7. #22
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    Go get em Big Jeff. sell some of those parts.
    90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"

    Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"

    90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"

    110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
    flat track build. “Shop trike”

    1974 original 90 X 2

    1974 Original 70.

  8. #23
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    .

    Here's some more info for you.


    90 cc MAXIMUM BORE SIZE

    Yes, you can bore an atc90 cylinder out as far as 54 mm, and many people have done it.


    USED CYLINDER PRICES AND AVAILABILITY

    You can get used cylinders on ebay cheap if you want a spare or if you want to keep your original one as it is and get a used one to bore out. Below is a link for a pair of good reborable cores for only $25.00 for both plus $13.00 shipping.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CT90-...0AAOSwO7pcgX5P

    Here's several more.

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...nder+&_sacat=0


    CYLINDER DIFFERENCES

    Cylinders from ATC90 and ATC90 K1 models with vin's lower than 300001, use cylinder p/n 12100-918-000. Cylinders from ATC90 K2 and ATC90 K3 models with vin's 300001 and higher, use cylinder p/n 1200-918-010. I do not know exactly what the difference is but my guess is that they are interchangeable but may use a different seal or gasket or chain roller etc. I'm too lazy at the moment to see if any of those parts are different, but that is something that shortline10 or another ATC90 guru here can tell you.


    PISTON KITS

    A piston, rings, pin, and circlips kit is only $49.00 from Dr ATV (Beatrice Cycle). This is where many people buy them. They have been in business a long time and I have bought a lot of parts from them myself and my experience was that they are very reputable, PLUS, they have some NOS parts that have been discontinued from Honda that they sell for a reasonable price.

    Since you want more power, and used cylinders are so cheap if you want a spare, there is no logic in simply boring yours out to the next size over instead of boring it out to 53.5 or 54 mm, especially since the piston kit is only around $25.00 more than many traditional oversize piston kits. You will need to ask DR ATV if the rings are included with the kit or if they are sold separately.

    Traditional oversize piston kits.

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...rings&_sacat=0

    53.5 mm

    http://dratv.com/atslst53bipi.html

    54 mm

    http://dratv.com/ol54bigbocyk.html


    HEAD GASKET

    You need a new head gasket with the 53.5 and 54 mm pistons due to the larger size of the piston, but DR ATV sells them for a palrty sum of only $5.05.


    PISTON TO CYLINDER HEAD CLEARANCE

    The only minor pita thing you need to do when going to the 53.5 and 54 mm pistons is check the piston to combustion chamber clearance at TDC because the pistons can hit the head slightly on some bikes due to production tolerances etc. DR ATV describes their method of checking this clearance in their description of the big bore kits but there is another method which I can describe if you want.


    PISTON TO CYLINDER CLEARANCE

    As far as piston to cylinder clearance, I personally would run .00175 minimum to .002 maximum. This is slightly larger than what most people would normally run but it will reduce the potential for it to seize.


    ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION

    I would also use a high quality Group IV oil as these perform better under high heat conditions than the lower number groups if all other aspects of the oil are the same.


    ENGINE WARM UP PROCEDURE RECOMMENDATION

    With the big bore kit, you should let the engine warm up for at least 3 minutes before putting much load on it. This will also reduce the potential for piston/cylinder damage.

    .

  9. #24
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    Wow, good information there Barn's. Nice explanation of how it all works and even the links for part's needed.
    90 heads are all interchangeable.
    90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"

    Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"

    90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"

    110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
    flat track build. “Shop trike”

    1974 original 90 X 2

    1974 Original 70.

  10. #25
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    If some redneck can put a small block chevy on a barstool, surely to god you can make a little more torque from a Honda!!!

    LOL
    I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAM shop View Post
    Wow, good information there Barn's. Nice explanation of how it all works and even the links for part's needed.
    90 heads are all interchangeable.
    They're all interchangeable? I thought the early ones were different somehow and you couldn't mix a late cylinder with an early head.

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  12. #27
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    Correct , the early cylinders mate to the head differently .



    Quote Originally Posted by hippyplz View Post
    They're all interchangeable? I thought the early ones were different somehow and you couldn't mix a late cylinder with an early head.

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  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    Correct , the early cylinders mate to the head differently .
    Didn't know that guy's, thanks for the clarification.

    Is there anyway you can tell a early year head and cylinder from a later year?
    90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"

    Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"

    90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"

    110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
    flat track build. “Shop trike”

    1974 original 90 X 2

    1974 Original 70.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
    That's only because Honda couldn't outright call it KAWASAKI Green.
    Kawasaki doesn’t even call Kawasaki green. They call it lime green.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  15. #30
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    Kawasaki doesn’t even call Kawasaki green. They call it lime green.
    "She put the lime in the coconut, she drank 'em bot' up
    She put the lime in the coconut, she call the doctor, woke 'I'm up"

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