Are you sure that opening that bore .002” would be enough for a forged piston? I’m about the farthest thing from a piston fitting expert you’ll find on here, but I do know that a forged piston required a slightly larger bore and the numbers you posted look pretty tight.
I’d contact Wiesco and ask them what size the bore should be for that piston.
It sucks to get old
60 to 73 mm .0025"
Oops thats for a 2 stroke, back in a few minutes but they somerimes include that info with the piston.
Ok wiseco no longer gives piston clearances. They told me lsst week thst the piston will have the correct clearance when the cylinder bore is the correct size, meaning if the piston is for a 65 mm bore, then it will have the correct clearance when the bore is exactly 65 mm. My 465 bores were slightly under size plus they had some light scratches so i honed them out to the correct size and ended up with around .00025 clearance on an 85 mm bore but this is on an air cooled 2 stroke.
This:
Contradicts this:
Why cut corners? To save money? Individuals spent lots of money and time restoring/rebuilding trikes, and they want to cut corners to save $25-$30? The local engine machine shop here charges 25.00 to hone .001-.003.
Do it once and do it right the first time. That saves time AND money!
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Liberalism suspends the intellect of its victims, while at the same time tricking them into believing that they're smarter than everyone else.
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90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"
Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"
90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"
110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
flat track build. “Shop trike”
1974 original 90 X 2
1974 Original 70.
Yup same with my guy. He won't bore sans slug.
85 Tri-Zinger 60
85 ATC250SX
86 ATC250SX
87 ATC250SX
02 XR650L conversion
84 ATC 480R
Yup, I have done the same thing since 1975 but, I tell the machinist what clearance I want based on the bike or car engine and the app etc. I used to race 2 strokes (like my 74 Bultaco's) that had studs going thru the cylinder to the head, and these would be prone to seize in the 4 corners where the studs were in the blazing California heat if the factory clearances were used, so I had them bored with additional clearance and they stopped seizing. I also have some cylinders "plateau honed", depending on various factors.
Well, if it was mine, I would make the clearance at least .002". This obviously means that you need to remove .0018" which is around how much you planned to remove.
I would then use a dedicated break in oil or non synthetic high ZDDP content oil (preferably with low detergents) for break in, then a good Group IV oil after that.
.
Well ladies.....It WORKED. It took the better part of 45 minutes with a 180 grit flex hone. 900 RPM, 20 strokes at a time. Clean it, measure, liberal amounts of 30 weight oil and go again. What a frackin' mess I made!!!!!!!!! There's oil all over the place.
Ohh well. I ended up with a total clearance of .0019 That's taking the largest part of the piston and the smallest reading I could get in the bore. The bore has a VERY slight taper. It's about .0006 larger at the bottom. Nope, don't care. She'll run.
Conclusion:
Is it the right way to do things? Emphatically NO!
Can it be done. Yes.
Why did I do it as opposed to getting it done professionally? I wanted a new hone anyway. These Flex-hones are the shizzz!!! I took my three stone traditional spring loaded contraption and tossed it under the lathe for down and dirty work. I'll never do another engine with one.
*sigh*
What's the next thing that'll bite me in the arse? Time will tell. Till next time, this is your friendly neighborhood halfassin' redneck, signing off.
†††Gabriel†††
I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....
I just like doing whatever I can on my own when I can, which is probably what you're doing. When you're ready to run Indy, then you can have it double-flare-square-bored-with taper swirl-plateu-hone-nika-poish or whatever the frig Barnett was talking about.
85 Tri-Zinger 60
85 ATC250SX
86 ATC250SX
87 ATC250SX
02 XR650L conversion
84 ATC 480R
Hones are just for making a crosshatch. If you use a drill on low speed and a quick in and out movement, you can get the desired degree of hatching.
Just don't plan on taking off a bunch of material. If your hone does take off a bunch of material, it is too coarse and you'll need another hone to deglaze the surface.
I like the ball hones myself with plenty of oil and a real good eye as well as repeatable motions.
I watched a buddy have his "engine guy" hone his 1986 RM250 cylinder in a drill press!! He turned it on and went up and down slowly, All it did was it made circles in there parallel to each other, no degrees of separation between them (if that makes sense, I'm trying here).
Definitely the wrong speeds, it's really easy when you get the speeds and motions down, maybe check YouTube??
But, none of it is done "fast"...
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country