1985 350x rear bearing cariier

[trevorakm]

So looking at my 350x I need to get into the rear bearing carrier and replace the bearings. I haven't pulled it apart yet or ordered parts. My question is assuming this has never been done, Can you get away with just replacing the bearings and seals or do I have to replace the entire carrier? If it's the carrier I'm aware that you have to go to 1986 parts including the rear chain sprocket and bolts for an 86. Just trying to get a gauge from the more experienced and to maybe save some time ordering parts.

Thanks

Trevor

[Red Rider]

Unless the carrier itself is damaged, there is no reason to replace it. Yes, the bearings & seals can be removed/replaced with new ones. I've never removed carrier bearings before, but from what I understand, you'll need to heat up the carrier to get the bearings out, as they cannot be pressed or pulled out.

[trevorakm]

Thank you.

[350for350]

When I replace mine, I just use a long brass drift and drive the bearings out from the other side. I haven't had to use heat. Maybe that means something's wrong with my carrier?

[Red Rider]

When I replace mine, I just use a long brass drift and drive the bearings out from the other side. I haven't had to use heat. Maybe that means something's wrong with my carrier?

When I've checked the bearings in my 250R's rear carrier, there doesn't appear to be enough of a lip, for a drift to drive against, in order to drive the bearings out from the other side. And the same thing goes for using a blind bearing puller, not enough of a lip to catch on, to pull one out. Once you get one bearing out, and the center sleeve, the other bearing can easily be driven or pulled out.

[wonderboy]

No need to heat. Here is what I do:

Red Rider, you are correct that there is no lip to use a blind puller, nor can you just start driving with a drift. The key is to get one bearing separated first. Knock out the dust seal on one of the bearings so that you can see the cage holding the balls. Use a small punch to knock out the cage (it is easy to do, but will come out in lots of pieces). Scoot the balls all together to one side of the bearing and this will allow you to pull the inner race out. With the inner race out, the balls and pieces of the cage will be gone. Now the center spacer tube can be pulled out and you're in business. Either a puller on the outer race that is left, or a drift from the other side can knock the bearings out.

[Red Rider]

Wonderboy, excellent explanation on your technique. Most times, seemingly difficult things can be easily overcome with a little thought & ingenuity. If a person had removed their rear carrier, and seen the bearings were falling apart, I think your technique would be an obvious solution to getting them out. But if the bearings were completely intact, and were just being replaced for preventative maintenance reasons, I wouldn't have even thought of destroying (disassembling) a bearing to make the whole process easier for myself.

It's not that heating the carrier would be difficult, but not everyone has a torch to do it. And for those that have used heat, what type of torch is necessary? Will a standard propane torch get it hot enough, MAP gas, or only Oxy-Acetylene?

[Arky-X]

No need to heat. Here is what I do:

Red Rider, you are correct that there is no lip to use a blind puller, nor can you just start driving with a drift. The key is to get one bearing separated first. Knock out the dust seal on one of the bearings so that you can see the cage holding the balls. Use a small punch to knock out the cage (it is easy to do, but will come out in lots of pieces). Scoot the balls all together to one side of the bearing and this will allow you to pull the inner race out. With the inner race out, the balls and pieces of the cage will be gone. Now the center spacer tube can be pulled out and you're in business. Either a puller on the outer race that is left, or a drift from the other side can knock the bearings out.

Before there were carriers including bearings for less than $100 all over eBay.....hell, before eBay even existed....we had to knock them out of the carrier like you described. Not sure about a 250R but on a 350X, there was barely enough of a lip to catch to knock it out from the opposite side. Pain in the rear but doable. Then I had bearings erupt on me once and figured out the easiest way was what you described here.

Reinstalling them was putting the bearing in the freezer for a couple days and then heat the carrier with a torch. Bearing almost dropped in. Kept a piece of wood cut to size of the bearing and a large socket if it needed tapping with a .

[trevorakm]

Do the carriers just slide out? and what would most recommend, pull the current bearings or just go with a new carrier and bearing s set?

Thanks for any feed back, once past this I'll be asking about the forks and how to rebuild.

Trevor

[Red Rider]

Do the carriers just slide out? and what would most recommend, pull the current bearings or just go with a new carrier and bearing s set?

Yes, once axle has been removed, remove the large circlip on right side, then brake caliper mount. Then loosen the carrier pinch bolts, and the carrier should slide out. It's a tight fit, so it may need to be persuaded with a rubber mallet, or a block of wood and a . Just don't whack the carrier directly with a metal . No need to replace the carrier, unless it's damaged. If you want a new shiny, new, billet carrier, go for it. It's up to you.

[trevorakm]

Thanks not really into buying another as I hear it requires an 86 sprocket with recessed bolt heads.