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Thread: 83 ATC 200e questions

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Well guys, will have the front sprocket tomorrow. So anywho, i went at the bike. Drained the oil out of it. Im a lil stuck, before i go any further would like some input. So i took the Hi Lo gearbox off the bike, I can see that i still need to take the left side cover off. Do i need a holder or something weird to get the bolt of that holds the stator in place? I am assuming its normal thread. How do I get this side cover off to expose that front sprocket? I really don't like how these manuals fail to advise the procedure of changing the drive sprocket / front sprocket out. I can tell without holding the crank somehow I won't be able to unbolt it.
    Any advice.
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  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Pretty sure that cover just pops off, I recall there was a hidden bolt holding it though

    Here's an ebay listing to help spot any bolt holes you might have missed pulling a bolt from.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Honda-...frcectupt=true

    Once you're sure you have the bolts out, there's normally a couple flats on the case to tap off with a soft like a raw hide , rubber mallet etc. A steel works too, but be mindful it can break the case if you hit too hard. Once it starts moving, it should slide off fairly easy. I'm guessing one of the lower bolts is hiding or covered in dirt/grease.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Pretty sure that cover just pops off, I recall there was a hidden bolt holding it though

    Here's an ebay listing to help spot any bolt holes you might have missed pulling a bolt from.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Honda-...frcectupt=true

    Once you're sure you have the bolts out, there's normally a couple flats on the case to tap off with a soft like a raw hide , rubber mallet etc. A steel works too, but be mindful it can break the case if you hit too hard. Once it starts moving, it should slide off fairly easy. I'm guessing one of the lower bolts is hiding or covered in dirt/grease.
    Appreciate the link, will try at it again tomorrow. So the stator bolt doesn’t need to come off in order to remove the cover? Additionally the Manual mentioned removing the neutral switch which has a clip on it. Mine just has like a stud sticking out in the location of the “ neutral switch and no clip to remove.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    It's been a while since I took a 200 down that far. I think normally the gear indicator has an E clip on it, but it's a pretty tight press on so if someone was in it before, maybe they lost the E clip.

    Your engine looks a little different from what I'm used to, maybe the 200E is a slightly different design. This is what I'm used to seeing in the image below. Baiscally take a screw driver to stop the catch from spinning and pull that bolt out, it slides right off and remove all the case bolts to pull the cover off and the neutral indicator.

    https://i.gyazo.com/2d9b09bcfbc1a0b7...17a0c8cc1a.png

    Looking at the 200E manual, I see the cage is a different design. Can you reinstall the cage and still get to the nut under it? If not, maybe you happen to have some junk spare bolts around to throw in the little hub thing to use a screw driver/prybar to stop the engine from spinning. If all else fails, pull the spark plug and push in a bunch of rope to lock the engine up so you can get the nut loose. Common trick for chain saws atleast. Might want to make sure you're on the compression stroke so the valves will be shut.

    Just for reference, here's the diagram from the 200e service manual that matches up to what you have.

    https://i.gyazo.com/9506291610b760af...7f3b367d33.png


    I remember working on an engine with a similar design, can't recall what model it was, but I remember it was a bit of a pain. That was before I really learned about the rope trick.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Well I got the cover off, and the one under came out easily. Took your advice and took two bolts and screwed them into the holes where the pull start cup bolts in. I then put a wrench on the bolts and let it bring up against the foot peg. And it worked out perfectly. I can see the front sprocket finally. It’s actually in better shape then I thought but I’ll be putting on the new one regardless at this point. Appreciate all the help highly. I’ll touch back when I have more trouble. Also since I couldn’t find much more information about the front sprocket changeout , I’ll do a write up with the pics and videos I took. After going through this process now it seems easy!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Not a problem at all, glad you got it all figured out. Seems that's the nature of these 3 wheelers, at first it seems like a weird design, or overly complex, but doing the work once and it's a million times easier for the next time.

    A write up/guide would be handy for other owners of similar machines I'm sure.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    okay guys, got some questions for you and also a few pics for observation purposes.
    firstly made some comparison of the old sprocket versus the new one. New one is well worth it of course!

    Now, I have a question regarding the subtransmission, I reassembled everything pretty much exact same reverse order that it came apart. With the HI LO gearbox cover off, everything shifts perfectly and it goes into hi or lo easily. Gears all turn in the same manner as previous. When I assemble the cover and screw the selector handle back on, it will be harder to shift and the selector handle will back itself off and loosen up. I noticed in the end of the shaft sticking out , it looks like a hole where a pin would go. Also on the back of the handle it has a space where it looks like a pin would go, however i didnt see any pin upon disassembly. Pictures attached. Additionally on the topic of the subtransmission, I assume this has a port that fills up through the crankcases oil.


    Now a simpler question, I started to put the recoil starter pulley back on, I decided to use rtv gasketmaker on it to keep it weather proof. When I put the recoil on, I can pull the pullcord out a bit, however it seems to be refusing to recoil back in. With the unit off the bike it works as it should. I seen the shaft sticking out from the recoil portion, I assume its the neutral switch, but i don't really know how it works.
    Once I figure these things , the bike should be back together in no time.
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  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Recoil sounds simple, sneak the rope out and generally there's a notch in the part the rope goes around, stick it in that and give it an extra turn to make the spring have more tension on the rope. It should pull enough to make the handle stick up so junk doesn't get in the recoil.

    I can't really offer much on the high/low lever, just referece the part diagrams.

    I don't see any pins in this one.
    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ub-trans-cover

    Maybe item #11 in this one?
    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...-red/sub-trans

    The neutral safety switches I'm only really fimilar with the 250es style, basically there's a nub that sticks out, when it's pressed in, it grounds the top contact. I suspect the 200e/200es operates similar, just different mounting style and such.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...2c1145d17e0547

    The old sprocket defo wasn't too great of shape, seems like it was a good time to replace it.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Recoil sounds simple, sneak the rope out and generally there's a notch in the part the rope goes around, stick it in that and give it an extra turn to make the spring have more tension on the rope. It should pull enough to make the handle stick up so junk doesn't get in the recoil.

    I can't really offer much on the high/low lever, just referece the part diagrams.

    I don't see any pins in this one.
    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ub-trans-cover

    Maybe item #11 in this one?
    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...-red/sub-trans

    The neutral safety switches I'm only really fimilar with the 250es style, basically there's a nub that sticks out, when it's pressed in, it grounds the top contact. I suspect the 200e/200es operates similar, just different mounting style and such.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...2c1145d17e0547

    The old sprocket defo wasn't too great of shape, seems like it was a good time to replace it.
    Appreciate it highly, based on those diagrams it looks like #11 should be there. I’d reckon the pin acts like a key way similar to on a pump. That lil pin would certainly help reduce the chance of that lever slipping. I know I assembled the hi lo right cause I took videos of the disassembly.
    I’ll try with the recoil again as well.
    The neutral switch is basically the nub style that you’re talking about. Might be a dumb question but what actuates the neutral switch?
    I need to get the electric start working on the bike too after all this is taken care of. I’m wondering if the neutral switch has to do with the electric start not working. So far I know my battery is good, starter works and solenoid clicks when I test it off a battery. Which leaves me with that starter button on the handlebar

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    1,065
    The shift drum has a dowel pin that engages the slot in the back of the shift lever. It'll never really work right without it. The selector lever bears against it when moving back and forth from high/low range.

    Find it or a suitable replacement.
    The one Fixer linked is what you need.


    As far as sub-tranny lube, there are two oil passageways in the engine case cover. They have O-ring seals. You should have noticed (and replaced) them when removing it to install the sprocket.

    The shaft you're seeing is the mechanical neutral indicator.
    The electrical neutral switch is in the engine case, has a single lead wire and makes ground contact via a brass disk located on the shift drum inside the transmission.
    Last edited by Gabriel; 05-30-2019 at 08:54 PM.
    I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    For the 200E there isn't a whole lot that would stop the electric start from working, the 200ES has the annoying inhibitor switch. It's easy to test the neutral switch with a multi meter, just test the wire connection point to ground. Should show connection when in neutral, no connection when in any other gear. That ground connection is what's used for the starter solenoid for it's ground connection, and between the two is the starter switch. You'd test the starter switch the same way, should be green/red and light green/red wires. The "hot" side of the solenoid should be hot as soon as you turn the ignition switch on. A test light or multi meter can work for that test, test from yellow/red at the starter relay to a good ground point (clean frame or battery neg). If your lights work, the starter solenoid *should* have power. If no lights work then check the wire and fuse near the battery, wire diagram says it's a 7 amp fuse.

    I just scanned though the service manual and there's no "simplified" diagram for the starting system. Maybe I should make one as an easy reference on my atvmanual.com site.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Makes sense, so if need be I could just bypass the neutral switch to ensure it works. Also my front light works fine, however there’s no rear / taillight hooked up yet. I do have one in my spare parts, I just need to get the right light bulb connector for it. Basically I got a new tail light housing, and only two wires. So I need to track down the right connector that fits into the housing and bulb. Should be easy enough to solder.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Tail light wires for Hondas is Green for ground, and Brown for tail light power. There's no brake light, so no 3rd wire.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
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    49
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Tail light wires for Hondas is Green for ground, and Brown for tail light power. There's no brake light, so no 3rd wire.
    That should be easy to test for then! I have a tendency to over complicate things.. i guess it comes from school. If its just a taillight shouldnt be any trouble getting that back working. Will post some progress pics when i get it back together! I don't even have any pics before i disassembled it really other then semi stripped.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Haha, yea, simple test, find the wire the has power when the lights are on, ground the other anywhere including the green wire =). It's a light bulb, they don't care about polarity and such unless it's LED, then it gets more complicated.

    EDIT: Here's the simplified wire diagram for the electric start. I just made it black & white. Let me know if there's any mistakes on it, or if something could be represented better. You can click the image to view it full sized.

    http://atvmanual.com/honda/81-atc200...-start-diagram
    Last edited by ps2fixer; 05-31-2019 at 04:04 PM.

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