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Thread: 83 ATC 200e questions

  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    Got the rear sprocket today! Time to install the chain and start sticking the bike back together. The chain I got is a bit long, do I just make it as snug as it can go without aid of the chain tensioner and knock the pin out at that length? Only left to the build is the muffler that I’m still waiting on !

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    I guess it kind of depends how loose it is. If you can take a full link out and it's still long enough, that would probably be the best route. FYI, by full link, that means you can bunch up the chain 2 points on the sprocket tighter than normally laying the chain on it. If you end up making it too short, half links are made, but never used them myself.

    The chain should have something like 1in of slop moving it up and down, err like 2.2cm. You could probably go tighter since there's no suspension effecting the tightness of it. Also, the chain will stretch pretty fast at first until it breaks in. Don't forget to buy some chain lube for it.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    I guess it kind of depends how loose it is. If you can take a full link out and it's still long enough, that would probably be the best route. FYI, by full link, that means you can bunch up the chain 2 points on the sprocket tighter than normally laying the chain on it. If you end up making it too short, half links are made, but never used them myself.

    The chain should have something like 1in of slop moving it up and down, err like 2.2cm. You could probably go tighter since there's no suspension effecting the tightness of it. Also, the chain will stretch pretty fast at first until it breaks in. Don't forget to buy some chain lube for it.
    Appreciate it! Yeah, It seems like 3 links or so will have to come off. I never knew about half links, learn something new everyday. Some nice seeing all new chain and sprockets for the bike. I can see a Huge difference in the play as opposed to the old chain. On the old chain, if i lay the chain on a sprocket there was a lot of play, on this chain it fits perfectly. Will post up some pics once the machine is back together! Also for chain lube, I'm thinking on trying synthetic gear oil. Watched a cool youtube video comparing different chain lubes and gear oil is still one of the top picks apparently. I noticed the manual suggests 80w90 as well

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    Back when I rode a chain drive machine all the time, my dad has some sort of lube in a can specifically made for atv chains. It's big thing is that it sticks to the chain really well, kind of like bar oil for a chain saw. Speaking of that, straight 30 weight (or just car oil) used to be used for bar oil which is a big no no now, so maybe things changed, let me look up a modern sport quad service manual.

    Dang I fail at knowing modern machines, I thought the TRX250X/EX would be a sport quad chain driven lol. I know the TRX450R is a chain driven one so I'll look it up there. Looks like basically the same thing with the additional mention of what I just said it seems like lol.




    Oh looks like there's a bit more info about what 1 link is defined as and such. Also shows that special tool I was talking about before.


  5. #65
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    I put the chain on tonight. First time sizing a chain to fit a bike. So when I lined up the chain, I got it pretty short by cutting off the extra links. I was afraid to take one more link because I didn’t think I’d be able to line the chain back up with the master link. I think I may need a half master link for a true fit. When I assembled everything I had to turn the chain tensioner in almost all the way to get the tension I wanted. I’m aware that a new chain will stretch, so I’m thinking I may need to remove a link if that happens.
    On a side note, I was getting ready to put the tail on ( and solder the wires) and now the tail light has no power again haha. It had power the other day! Just my luck. Probably another wire that’s on the way out.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    If it's just the tail light, it's the brown wire only, it's supplied with power at the left handle bar controls and it splits up to the head light too.

    The chain will last a bit, chains can run somewhat loose with out too many problems, too loose tends to bend the sprocket teeth tips though. A trick for getting a chain together when it's pretty tight already is to put the two loose ends on the rear sprocket, then work the master link into it, assuming taking a link out isn't too tight. The machine should allow for a link spare room since it has a tensioner. Maybe once it stretches, it will be long enough where one link pulled out will be fine.

    With the special chain tool, you can take apart chains, and also add links back in I'm pretty sure, at least the bicycle ones work that way.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    Well I got the bike together today. Fixed the tail light, tidied up everything and got the fenders back on plus the back rack and stuff like that. Only one last problem to figure out now, that pullcord assembly is still messed up. It’s rebuilt with a new rope and does its job off the bike. When I bolt it onto the bike it gets caught. It’ll be very hard to pull it virtually unable to pull it. I’ll manage to be able slowly pull the cord out then it’s stuck and won’t recoil. When I take the bolts back out it recoils instantly. I noticed the 3 bolts that holds the basket/cup on have scoring marks as if it’s being rubbed against the recoils internals. I thought the recoil was as simple as bolting it back on haha! Not sure what my issue is

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    Maybe post some images? Normally the recoils bolt right on and it's good to go. I never had to rebuild one, been lucky getting ones that work fine. Well I target 250cc+ 3 wheelers, so I guess they are all kick start, but the 200es's I've bought have been good recoils. Maybe the recoil is from a different 200 series engine or something. There's a website that shows the differences for all the recoils... found the page.

    https://atcvin.webs.com/RecoilInfo/

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    1,042
    Did you put the proper gasket on? The thickness of the gasket may be difference in working or not. Not sure as I've never tried one without it.
    I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....

  10. #70
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    No, didn't put a gasket on it just gasket maker. Didn't realize the gasket would affect it that much. That could be the issue though for sure. So I took some pictures, im pretty stumped of whats going on. Few things im now skeptical about, do i need a gasket as mentioned? Also that neutral stub i don't have anything on it, does it require some type of cover? Here are some pictures of whats going on. Its a 200e, but it does have a 200m tank on it.

    Just got some fuel in the bike and got it running by the electric start, and when i turned the key to the off position the bike wouldnt shut off.. ps2fixer whats the chances of you making up a ignition switch and a full harness for this bike? The 200m is gonna be my collector toy and the 200e will be my use it whenever type of bike. Also i think i put the gear shifter too low when i installed it, tried sticking it in gear and couldn't get her down to first gear. The 200e has all down for gears.
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  11. #71
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    Hmm looks like there might be some rubbing going on.

    Not to bring more bad news, but the next cover in probably should have a gasket too. I think there's like 3 covers between the center case to the recoil, so that could add up to a fair distance. You could probably cheat and buy two recoil gaskets to stack to get the thickness, but probably better to get both/all that are missing. I've noticed the Japanese machines are made to a tight tolerance, like the 250ES starter gear cover which just holds the pins for the gears also has to have the gasket or it binds.

    For the ignition switch, already made =), harness wise, I can make it, just not sure how long it would take me. I think it's a fairly complicated harness, so I'll have to see how much time it takes me to make one, but I'd expect it to be a bit more on the pricey side. Kind of why I never focused on the big red/250sx models even though I'm sure there's some out there that would love a new harness regardless of price.

    Here's a link for the ignition switch, I also have them listed on ebay, but the 3ww shop supports the site with the seller fees.

    http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/index....product_id=329

    Anyway I personally don't like to just throw parts at things with out testing to be sure. You can test the ignition switch by checking for connection between the green & black/white wires. Off they should be shorted together, On should be no connection. Makes sense that it could be the problem if the internals are corroded or sometimes don't make connection. The kill switch on the left handle bar controls should work to kill the engine, if that doesn't work too, might be a bad wire. I've had to repair handle bar control wires before, can be a pain to find where it's at though. Worst case... I also mod newer Honda handle bar controls to work on your machine too. They are $75 since I'm paying Honda full price and such. If you have any interest in that too, let me know and I'll make the last one I have on hand for your machine, else I'll make it for an atc350x to restock my ebay listing.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    Okay, if you come up with a price for a 200E harness let me know. I’d be interested in one. Also just drove the bike around the yard. The new sprockets are great. I didn’t realize how easy these things are to do wheelies on, brought the front wheel up unintentionally. Also neither turning the ignition off nor the engine killswitch is working at the moment. Maybe it’s because I ran a new ground wire for the push button start. I’ll have to go back through the wiring

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    TN
    --
    1,042
    Gaskets can ABSOLUTELY made the difference. When rebuilding a 200ES engine, I took the sub-trans apart and assembled it several times until I understood how it worked....It will lock up bigger than Ssht without the proper thickness gasket. Base gaskets "CHANGE" things when they aren't to spec.
    I would certainly get the right gasket for it.

    When you put on a pull rope gasket, I have found using a gasket cement or sealer on the pull rope housing side only works great. If/when you have to pull it, you don't have to deal with it, it stays put.
    I was born and raised on Venus & I may be here a while.....

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,480
    Yep, 3 wheelers have a nice power to weight ratio. Front ends are very light compared to a quad so they are beastly wheelie machines.

    If you're new to the whole 3 wheeler riding setup, make sure if you have motorcycle experience, to resist putting the foot out when tipping. With your machine, you might not have enough power to gun it to flatten the rear out in a tip, so you'll have to learn to really lean to keep from going over the point of no return. Also remember if you can, you can steer out of a tip given the room/trail space. A small adjustment sometimes is all you need. If you ride hard like me, about a few years of riding you'd really get a good hang of 3 wheelers and you'll be able to fly down the trails fast. I can generally keep up with my dad on his 680 Rincon in the woods, which is both faster accelerating machine, and also has a rider that knows how to push the limits with out going over them. My dad is nuts on a dirt bike, he's way more experienced on 2 wheels than I am for sure, he's pretty quick on the Rincon too, clearly he'd be faster on an actual sport quad than a sport utility.

    Both kill switches not working is defo not right. The kill switch operation is to short the black/white wire to green wire (aka ground). The starter switch wires don't touch the direct grown wire at all, so that wouldn't have an effect. I just pulled up the service manual, the kill wire is solid black, newer machines use black/white lol. Anyway, either you have a bad wire/connect between the CDI to the splice point in the main harness, both switches are bad (unlikely), or you have some strange issue with your ground wire (green), that wire runs to just about everything..... Ignition Switch, Engine Kill switch, CDI, Regulator, Lights, Ignition Coil and Pickup/Pulse Generator Coil. I'd say to set your multi meter to beep when you touch the probes together, put one on the coil bolt where the green wire is bolted to it, and check each of the parts if they have connection or not. If you have a broken ground wire, then replacing the harness would probably be the best option for you. Same test for the Black kill wire, start at the CDI connector and test connection at the ignition switch and engine kill switch. Basically it's just a matter of following the circuit on the wire diagram to find where you don't have connection when you should.

    FYI, inside the headlight housing there's a 3 way connection for the green wire. Probably worth while making sure everythign is plugged in (headlight, ignition switch, and engine kill switch). I suspect that is the likely spot the wire could break/get cut to cause your issues too.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canada
    --
    49
    They’re fun as hell for sure! I’m a ex sport biker. Got sick of tickets and speeding around so got into off-roading years ago. Not a big fan of quads and didn’t want a dirt bike really. Blend that in with nostalgia and I found trikes lol! And yes definitely something weird going on. I’ll start troubleshooting at some point tomorrow. But I’d love to get a new harness in this bike eventually. Feel free to send a pm if you need with how much it’ll be.ill probably strip the harness coming this fall. I like to take care of what I own generally and it runs great. Yea it was funny earlier, neither switch worked so I just had to pop the ignition cap off to shut it off. The headlight still functions when I turn the key. I probably misunderstood the ground when I bypassed the old broken wire. I’ll go back through the diagrams and go from there. I have somewhat of a technical background, however I try to learn everywhere I go

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