Kick starter slipping is the one way bearing for the primary clutch, pretty common for these machines. The electric start side has one as well if that slips too, less common though. Here's a link for the OEM part number, but there's aftermarket options out there too for cheaper. Make sure the bearing physically stops the same direction as the orig, they are sometimes mis-labeled from the aftermarket suppliers.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...10ca3bce8f6e94
For the starter, if it worked once, it likely is repairable. By small wire I'm guessing the magnet wire from the copper windings? There's also the brushes which uses heavier wire. How did you fix it, details are everything and photos can help a ton too if you're not sure what things are called.
Battery charger alone likely won't have enough power to start the engine, it needs something like 100 amps. You can jump the battery with a car/truck battery and a set of jumper cables (heaver the copper wire the better), booster packs might have enough power to start the engine too.
Just to do a mini lesson in electronics, voltage is nothing with no amps, wattage is a nice universal measurement since it's fairly easy to follow. 12v * 100 amps = 1200w, if your battery charger is say 10 amp, it's 12v * 10 amps = 120w which would get ate up by the lights + starter solenoid and have little left over for the starter cranking. Also free spinning a motor is much easier than making it work. No offense meant by this or anything.