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Thread: Got some questions about my Honda 250sx 1985.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
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    5

    Got some questions about my Honda 250sx 1985.

    Hi everyone, I bought this 3wheelers a couple days ago, this morning after a little trip I saw gas leaking out from the carburator tubing and I was wondering if this tube is suppose to be connected somewhere. On the pictures the tube #1 was the one leaking and the #2, I didn’t see anything wierd exepted that it wasn’t plug anywhere.




    Hope I was clear enough, im not quite into mecanics.


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    Nevermind.... Just saw the number two which means you're not talking about what I thought you were talking about

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    6,722
    Wow lol , their shouldn’t be a tube connected to the air fuel screw #2 in your picture , that’s your fine tune screw for idle .
    #1 hose is an over flow and it should only leak from their if the machine is on its side or up side down .
    Your float valve is not working properly or full of trash but either way the carburetor needs to come apart and be rebuilt , I recommend a shindy brand kit .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,531
    Just don't use the jets that come with the rebuild kits. Those aren't always the same size despite what number may be on them. If you can't clean up the ones that you have, buy new ones from a dealership or from jetsrus.com. If you use jetsrus.com, you can check out and then it will give you the option to upgrade to the faster shipping (it says that normal shipping time is something like 2-3 weeks). If you go this way, you'll be charged the normal shipping again too. Their website doesn't realize that you just paid for the standard shipping. I had to email them and get a refund to my PayPal. It's easier to get the faster shipping the first time. other than that, I HIGHLY recommend them. One more thing, don't buy the "OEM equivilant" jets either. They're NOT the same thing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Yea the "OEM equivilant" labeling is horrible, better way of saying it is OEM clone that's sized differently. Stick with OEM brand jets ONLY.

    Btw, having the drain hose on the slow just adjusting screw is pretty funny to see xD.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    6,722
    This is what happens when you order china carburetor kits .
    The Shindy brand kits are made in Japan and will come with the correct size jets . Yes they cost more but you get what your pay for .
    I have installed thousands with rarely an issue .



    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    Just don't use the jets that come with the rebuild kits. Those aren't always the same size despite what number may be on them. If you can't clean up the ones that you have, buy new ones from a dealership or from jetsrus.com. If you use jetsrus.com, you can check out and then it will give you the option to upgrade to the faster shipping (it says that normal shipping time is something like 2-3 weeks). If you go this way, you'll be charged the normal shipping again too. Their website doesn't realize that you just paid for the standard shipping. I had to email them and get a refund to my PayPal. It's easier to get the faster shipping the first time. other than that, I HIGHLY recommend them. One more thing, don't buy the "OEM equivilant" jets either. They're NOT the same thing.
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    --
    5
    Thanks for the replies guys its very helpful, btw my crankshaft is dead and my electric start either do you have any suggestion for a new electric starter or the cheapest one should be good ?


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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,531
    I've used DB Electrical. I haven't had any problems with them. Scratch that. I did have one issue, but it was my own fault. I ordered a starter for my 85 250SX. It was listed as fitting 86/87 250SX. I didn't realize that the 85 SX starter is different. I'm also wondering if the hose on the fuel screw was to help with adjusting it? It's kind of hard to get anything in there, especially when the engine's hot. That's just a guess and I could be wrong.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    What exactly do you mean the crankshaft is dead?

    For electric start, have you done any diag work to know for sure it's the starter? There's 2 fuses and 3 switches + the starter solenoid that must work for the starter to work.

    Here's the diagram for the 250ES, but the 250SX is the same diagram too. I highlighted Red as the "hot" wires for the solenoid, and the green wire as ground/neg. You could test each switch & fuse with a multi meter on a ohm/beep/short test, or you could test for battery voltage from neg to across the 20amp fuse, then though the switch, etc till you end up at the hot side of the starter solenoid. If all tests good there, then put the positive probe on the battery, and test the neg side of the starter solenoid with the machine in neutral to be sure the neutral safety switch is working right. You should also hear the solenoid click when you hit the starter button when the ignition switch is on, starter button pressed, and machine in neutral, the neutral dash light also runs off the same power/ground, so if that's working then it limits the issue down to the starter switch and solenoid.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
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    5

    Got some questions about my Honda 250sx 1985.

    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    What exactly do you mean the crankshaft is dead?

    For electric start, have you done any diag work to know for sure it's the starter? There's 2 fuses and 3 switches + the starter solenoid that must work for the starter to work.

    Here's the diagram for the 250ES, but the 250SX is the same diagram too. I highlighted Red as the "hot" wires for the solenoid, and the green wire as ground/neg. You could test each switch & fuse with a multi meter on a ohm/beep/short test, or you could test for battery voltage from neg to across the 20amp fuse, then though the switch, etc till you end up at the hot side of the starter solenoid. If all tests good there, then put the positive probe on the battery, and test the neg side of the starter solenoid with the machine in neutral to be sure the neutral safety switch is working right. You should also hear the solenoid click when you hit the starter button when the ignition switch is on, starter button pressed, and machine in neutral, the neutral dash light also runs off the same power/ground, so if that's working then it limits the issue down to the starter switch and solenoid.

    I diag both the solenoid and the starter. I took out the starter and I plugged a battery charger using 12 volt on it and it wasn’t working, then I opened it and saw that the little wire connecting the pole to the motor, I fixed it and tried starting it again with the battery charger and it worked. Then I put it back on the trike and tried starting it, I heard the solenoid clicking but the starter wasn’t working again.

    For the crankshaft, Their’s no grip I gotta finnd the good spot to finally start the motor, sometimes it takes me 15-20 minutes to start it...Kinda funny but im getting tired of this.... lol


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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Kick starter slipping is the one way bearing for the primary clutch, pretty common for these machines. The electric start side has one as well if that slips too, less common though. Here's a link for the OEM part number, but there's aftermarket options out there too for cheaper. Make sure the bearing physically stops the same direction as the orig, they are sometimes mis-labeled from the aftermarket suppliers.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...10ca3bce8f6e94


    For the starter, if it worked once, it likely is repairable. By small wire I'm guessing the magnet wire from the copper windings? There's also the brushes which uses heavier wire. How did you fix it, details are everything and photos can help a ton too if you're not sure what things are called.

    Battery charger alone likely won't have enough power to start the engine, it needs something like 100 amps. You can jump the battery with a car/truck battery and a set of jumper cables (heaver the copper wire the better), booster packs might have enough power to start the engine too.

    Just to do a mini lesson in electronics, voltage is nothing with no amps, wattage is a nice universal measurement since it's fairly easy to follow. 12v * 100 amps = 1200w, if your battery charger is say 10 amp, it's 12v * 10 amps = 120w which would get ate up by the lights + starter solenoid and have little left over for the starter cranking. Also free spinning a motor is much easier than making it work. No offense meant by this or anything.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    --
    5

    Got some questions about my Honda 250sx 1985.

    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Kick starter slipping is the one way bearing for the primary clutch, pretty common for these machines. The electric start side has one as well if that slips too, less common though. Here's a link for the OEM part number, but there's aftermarket options out there too for cheaper. Make sure the bearing physically stops the same direction as the orig, they are sometimes mis-labeled from the aftermarket suppliers.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...10ca3bce8f6e94


    For the starter, if it worked once, it likely is repairable. By small wire I'm guessing the magnet wire from the copper windings? There's also the brushes which uses heavier wire. How did you fix it, details are everything and photos can help a ton too if you're not sure what things are called.

    Battery charger alone likely won't have enough power to start the engine, it needs something like 100 amps. You can jump the battery with a car/truck battery and a set of jumper cables (heaver the copper wire the better), booster packs might have enough power to start the engine too.

    Just to do a mini lesson in electronics, voltage is nothing with no amps, wattage is a nice universal measurement since it's fairly easy to follow. 12v * 100 amps = 1200w, if your battery charger is say 10 amp, it's 12v * 10 amps = 120w which would get ate up by the lights + starter solenoid and have little left over for the starter cranking. Also free spinning a motor is much easier than making it work. No offense meant by this or anything.
    Thanks for the infos and sorry, Im french Canadian and I kinda searching for my words specially when Im trying to be that specific.


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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Not a problem, I've noticed a few more Canadians active lately.

    Anyway, if you do want to replace the starter, sticking with OEM used isn't a bad option. There's new Chinese made ones, but I'm not sure if they are good or not. They are effectively clones of the Honda ones, so maybe parts would interchange if it doesn't work for some reason. Also Honda sells some of the parts yet if you wanted to buy brushes or the brush plate if that's your problem. Your starter would be the lower left one in the diagram.

    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...starting-motor

    Based on the part numbers, your machine should be able to accept an 85 or 86 ATC250SX starter, but the 1987 starter is a different part number. Also the 250es is a different part number, but I'd think if you got an 85 it would likely work. I could dig into the parts a bit deeper if you need me to. 250ES one is silver while the SX one is black, so that forces a part number change.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    --
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Not a problem, I've noticed a few more Canadians active lately.

    Anyway, if you do want to replace the starter, sticking with OEM used isn't a bad option. There's new Chinese made ones, but I'm not sure if they are good or not. They are effectively clones of the Honda ones, so maybe parts would interchange if it doesn't work for some reason. Also Honda sells some of the parts yet if you wanted to buy brushes or the brush plate if that's your problem. Your starter would be the lower left one in the diagram.

    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...starting-motor

    Based on the part numbers, your machine should be able to accept an 85 or 86 ATC250SX starter, but the 1987 starter is a different part number. Also the 250es is a different part number, but I'd think if you got an 85 it would likely work. I could dig into the parts a bit deeper if you need me to. 250ES one is silver while the SX one is black, so that forces a part number change.
    You’re right its the one on the left on the diagram.

    I’ve made some research on different part seller and part compatibility websites and ending up with silver starter, I think it should work too. The question is, should I buy a new one or try repairing it ? I know how the mechanism’s working but repairing it is another thing...


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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Kind of depends what's wrong with it. There used to be businesses that rebuilt starters for a reason, normally it's cheaper to repair than to replace. Those businesses have been drying up though since less and less people get things repaired and instead just replaces parts. "Refurbished" items are generally rebuilt and cleaned up.

    If you know how it all works, repairing shouldn't be too hard I wouldn't think unless there's like actual metal wear, bad bearings etc. New is always an option, I just don't know much about the aftermarket starters, but I'm pretty sure most/all are Chinese made, so you'll likely get a lower quality starter than what the OEM one was.

    I think I've read some of the starter shafts are too long for some people, I'm not sure which starter for what machine they bought though, I think that might be the 85/86 vs 87 difference.

    Another machine with a similar starter setup is the 85 TRX250, but you'd have to replace the starter gears to match the starter since it's a different tooth count.

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