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Thread: 200e bottom end 200s top end

  1. #16
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    I don't recall, but I don't think he used any 200x parts.

    The normal 200 series is about 7.6:1 compression, while the 200x was something like 9:1. I suspect an aftermarket piston could probably make up the compression difference. Depends what your goals are with the machine. Shorter stroke generally is better for high rpm, quick acceleration etc, when you stroke it, you keep the same spinning mass, and torque goes up, but longer the stroke, the more of a tractor engine it turns into instead of a hyped up sports engine. There's always a balance in life. Personally, I'd probably just look into aftermarket pistons and get a 200x top end and maybe an aftermarket cam.

  2. #17
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Yea thats the plan high comp piston, cam, better carb, and exhaust. I think i would prefer more get up versus top speed it goes plenty fast enough for me. Although in between would be nice a little more spunk with a little more top end. Idk if thats possible i know its usually 1 or the other. I pulled the e motor out the frame today im going to go.ahead and tear the bottom end down and start cleaning it up and replacing things looks like it was at the bottom of a mudhole think im going to change just about everything to be on the safe side

  3. #18
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    Upping the compression should increase the power across the board. Targeting around 9:1 wouldn't be a bad target to run on pump gas. Not sure how far you can go before higher grades of gas is needed.

    I wonder if that 230 top end from the china engine would be a simple upgrade for the 200x, 200 -> 230 is about 15% more displacement, so all else equal should be 15% more power. Up the compression and you should see pretty nice gains. As the American saying goes, there's no replacement for displacement. I suspect finding a CRF230 top end might bit a bit more fool proof since you can get the whole top end likely off ebay, but this is the stuff that isn't documented much.


    I personally like torquey engines like the 350x, even if it's not the fastest to rev, or fastest 0-40mph time or whatever spec it would be. Torque is the true measurement of power, hp is work done over time.

  4. #19
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Yea i think i read 10.25:1 i could still use 93 pump gas even if i had to put in an octane booster wouldnt be bad. If the 230 bolts right on to the 200 bottom it may be a nice upgrade wonder y anybody hasnt done it yet . I prefer torque also wouldnt more torque mean a faster take off?

  5. #20
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by glamy View Post
    I suspect neither one of you knows what your talking about............what series harness is it ?..........who`s on first ...........whats on second ...........i don`t knows on third.............buy all his harnesses
    Im learning glamorous wish i could be as smart as yourself sir i guess its better than riding fullsizeC all day

  6. #21
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Or shall i say fullsizeD

  7. #22
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    Pretty sure you can say dick or cock on here

    We'll found out in a minute

    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  8. #23
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    Depends on a lot of things, the quickness to rev isn't just raw torque, spinning mass, stroke length, etc are factors too.

    Here's a page I found that probably describes it better than I can.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroke_ratio

    Basically a truck engine should be a long stroke because high torque at lower rpm, a race car typically has a shorter stroke to have peak torque at high rpm where more work gets done (HP).

  9. #24
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Lol i guess we will

  10. #25
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    Ok i seen where the 200x crank will not fit in the 200e bottom so being i would have a 200x top end with high comp piston wouldnt it be ideal to have the 200x crank that is if the stroke is different between the 2

  11. #26
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    I would think you'd be buying a piston for the 200e, so it should be the right height for the 200e stroke. Here's some specs.


    200E:
    Bore x stroke = 65x57.8mm
    compression ratio = 7.8:1

    83-85 200X:
    Bore x stroke = 65x57.8mm
    compression ratio = 9.6:1

    Guess I was wrong about the stroke difference, must be a difference in the piston then. Never really looked into it before, figured they just stroked the same bore.

  12. #27
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Thats even better 1 less thing to worry about now i just have to get on ebay and buy a 200x setup and see if it needs boring have it honed and matched with a higher compresson piston. I wish they made bottom end kits with everything you need for a rebuild might be somthing to look into and offer on ebay depends on how much bs it is finding everyrhing piece by piece. Bottom in looks like it was sitting in mud i dont know if that was the case or if its just grass and dirt built up from them.cutting grass where i got it so i plan on replacing all the bearings and seals and orings to be on the safe side.

  13. #28
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I think i do remember seeing the only dif is the pistons 1 is the e is concave and the x is flat top and the high comps are a dome

  14. #29
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    Yea the 200cc and smaller machines I haven't focused on as much, parted out a few but didn't notice the piston differences and such. Ebay photos seem to confirm the dish vs flat top.

    A bottom end rebuild kit could be an interesting thing to try to offer. Gabriel would be more qualified to say how easy or hard it is to find the parts, he just did the same thing not long ago. I'm pretty sure the bearings are nothing super special, just need to measure them and buy a quality replacement bearing of the same size/type (sealed vs dust cap vs open). The seals might be a bit tricky, Honda OEM is a for sure fit if they are available yet. I suspect buying the parts 1 at a time would add up fast in costs, so probably not much price markup room to pay for research time and the costs related to storing the parts and the fact the money is tied up into them till they are sold.

  15. #30
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Exactly what i was thinkinf probably y nobody offers a kit demand wise and price wise they would have to mark it up a good bit to make anything. I found a cylinder bored and honed with a wiseco 10.25:1 piston with gasket set wrist pin and circlips for 450$ is that a an ok deal or would i be better off sourcing everything myself

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