Also same type of puller (not sure if same size) as the 350x uses. The home made puller looks fine, is it made of mild steel? Ideally you'd probably want it hardened a little so it lasts longer, but then again, having it a softer material will let the tool get torn up before the threads/crack.
What's wrong with your starter? You'd probably be better off putting new brushes in the OEM one and greasing it back up if it's in otherwise good shape instead of buying the china ones on ebay. I don't know how close of a clone they are, but the china ones could be handy for parts for the OEM starters, just be sure to use quality brushes, bearings (if there are any), and don't forget they need at least a little grease.
Same goes for the solenoid, they are super heavy built, the 1000cc side by side engines uses the same solenoid with some different wiring. I saw some photos of someone that took apart their solenoid and it looks like it's fairly easy to do, could take it apart and clean up the heavy copper connections with some fine sand paper (like 200+ grit)
Solenoid is still available from Honda, but it's got a price tag too. The cheap ones on ebay are china made, if they don't have good quality copper connections, there's comments that they tend to get stuck "on" aka the arc is welding the contact together. If you wanted to try to go a little cheaper, I can buy a solenoid for a much newer Honda and modify the wiring, probably be around $40.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...49546677d3b089
Regulator/rectifier is out of production, only the ATC200E is the same part number (200ES is probably similar though). Test process for it is pretty simple, take a multi meter and read the DC volts of the battery with the engine off. Fire up the engine and check the next reading. It should be higher voltage than the first. After a long enough ride so the battery is fully charged etc, it shouldn't go over 14.5-15v at higher rpm. The rectifier part of it is just to convert AC to DC, so reading a voltage increase at all shows it's working, that part very rarely fails. The voltage regulator part of it is where it can fail and cause it to take out batteries by overcharging them. Pretty sure it's semi rare for them to fail. I've only seen one bad one in my life, but it's from a china quad, so hard to compare it to Honda lol.
I could harden it but it worked pretty good I would rather the threads be soft and strip on that versus the harder to obtain part. The starter wasnt with the motor when it was given to me so i will have to find a good used one maybe. The solenoid is there along with the rectifier/ regulator so maybe they will be ok not sure it was out in the weather for a long time. I was hoping they had new ones that were decent that way when i got to the point of starting the motor i didnt have to find one then wait kind of nipping it in the bud. I will be having you make me a new harness so i will know all is good there could probably just use the old harness but like i said i would feel better if it were new so i dont have problems later down the road less to go wrong and easier to narrow things down if somthing does go wrong. Plus would be more customized to my bike since its shorter than the 200e frame probably not enough to matter much but i will have the battery, solenoid, and rectifier/regulator in a different spot than on the e and the 200x light on the front but ill cross that bridge when the time comes i guess. I will get a multi meter when i go get other tools i need like a blind hole bearing puller and hone might just order all that online.
Are partzilla bearings and seal of good quality that you know of will probably order everything i can from there. The bearings are good honestly but i see no reason not to change them while im there. I will be tearing down the crankshaft assembly also connecting rod seems like it may be out of specs side to side will see when i get there. Will probably just order everything i think i will need from looking at the diagram and go from there ill finish tearing everything down once i get most of my parts.
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Partzilla doesn't make bearings, they are a dealership of many brands. If it's bearings based on the OEM part numbers, it should be the exact same bearing that the engine came with. If it's aftermarket, then it's whatever aftermarket brand it is. Generally speaking, for a Japanese machine you'll want to stick with Japanese branded bearings (NSK and such).
They claim its oem parts but dont show a brand
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I've seen "OEM" bearings come direct from the dealer in branded boxes that were from different manufactures.
NSK while originally made in Japan are now manufactured all over the globe as are most other famous brands. In my opinion any bearing with a known name on it is going to be fine. SKF, FAG, TIMKIN, KOYO, NSK, NTN, NACHI etc. If the part number crosses over you're good to go.
What you want to avoid are the no name Chinese bearings that sell for a fraction of the cost of name brands that sometimes come from Bearing Boss, or All Balls type seller. I don't have an issue with using them for non-engine applications, but for crankshafts and transmissions I stick to the pricier name brands.
For the record I'm not knocking the eBay bearing sellers, some of the stuff they sell is impossible to find elsewhere.
It sucks to get old
Made in J.A.Pan was a joke prior to the 70's. Now it's replaced Made in Germany as the mark of quality for imports, but today factories like NSK have plants in India, Germany, England and yes even China. It's not about the country of origin, it's about what materials and tolerances are specified and who's doing the Q.C. at the plant. Plenty of crappy bearings made in China, but they aren't made at the same plants as the brands we're familiar with.
It sucks to get old
Yea, I guess my wording was a bit off, I prefer Japanese brands as in the HQ is in Japan. Like a Toyota Tundra is built in Texas, USA, but it's a Japanese truck to me. I'd think it's designed in Japan, but I wouldn't know for sure. I agree though, known brands of being high quality should be fine. Likely one of them is the OEM brand anyway.
Kind of like for Japanese engines run NGK or Denso spark plugs, matching Japanese design spark plugs to Japanese engines. Same goes for Ford, run Motorcraft plugs in a Ford engine, I guess it's more about sticking to what was used as OEM over cost savings of other brands.
Sorry, I lost my bearings while racing to look for locations. Thanks for having the balls to update my post.
It sucks to get old