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Thread: 11.5:1 pump gas

  1. #16
    efhondakid's Avatar
    efhondakid is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Sweet baby Jesus. It’s a 2hunnit S. Stick the Wiseco hi comp piston in it, 10.25 or 10.5 what ever it is, an X cam and exhaust and be done with it. It’s not a race bike, trying to squeeze another half HP out of an S, you sound like you are trying to be the coolest kid at the retard table...
    2 in the back, 1 in the front.

  2. #17
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Going from 12hp or so to upwards of 20hp is a pretty good gain for what it is to each their own its a pretty fun little bike if i could gain a good 30% or possibly more in power increase would make it that much better going to keep it might as well make it a runner i enjoy picking the smart ones brains and talking trikes you look like my handicap cousin by the way i beleive thats the correct term he rides the short bus

  3. #18
    efhondakid's Avatar
    efhondakid is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    The point I’m trying to make is that two bikes everything else even, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between one with an 11:1 piston or a 10.5:1 piston. For a race bike that has to have a half HP more than the next guy on the line, again all other things even, it barely matters still. Wanna feel a difference in the ass dyno? Do the X piston/cam/exhaust, it’s cheap and will wake up the plugged up S right up, best part, you can put any gas in it that you have sitting around and not have to worry about ordering VP for your hardtail. But, by all means, do continue to make assumptions of my knowledge.
    2 in the back, 1 in the front.

  4. #19
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Just messing with you like i said earlier i value everybodys opinion and knowledge the more you learn the better which in turn will help me make the best decision on how i want my bike to run been seeing blasters for 7 to 900 been thinking about getting one and using the rear end and motor i would have suspension and around 20hp stock and could probably get it closer to 30hp by time im done with it so many ideas

  5. #20
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I even value my glamy

  6. #21
    efhondakid's Avatar
    efhondakid is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    The biggest issue with the 185/200S-X-XR is getting the flow out of the head, higher comp and longer duration/higher lift cam will only do so much if you can’t get the fuel in and exhaust out.
    2 in the back, 1 in the front.

  7. #22
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I could get head work done bigger valves and port work i dont think the 86 x head with the bigger valves would go on my cylinder right

  8. #23
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Blaster may be my best option have more hp and rear suspension killing 2 birds with 1 pebble

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fullsizechevy9 View Post
    10 4 thanks that sounds easier than messing with the piston i can mill the head at work on the bridgeport. Could i just slot my stock cam? And then use a timing light to advance it?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
    If you’re going to use a light to adjust your cam timing you’d better get an LED timing light as a conventional light can’t keep up with the smaller gears on these single cylinders.
    It sucks to get old

  10. #25
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    How would you go about advancing the timing? Do they make degreed sprockets for my application?

  11. #26
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    Ok, seriously. To degree your cam(s) you need to buy, or more likely make slotted gears. A poor man can do it with a die grinder and a machinist can do it with an end mill. Search images on Google to see what they look like.

    But before you even remove a gear off your cam you need to find out what Honda was shooting for originally (I doubt it’s in the manual), or what guys that have tuned these engines before recommend. Without this information you have no reason to begin the task.

    Once you have base line numbers you’ll need a degree wheel, piston stop, a dial gauge and a method to mount it to the engine in a position that allows the dial gauge to follow the valves at the same angle as they travel in. It is recommended that the dial gauge has enough travel that it can remain in contact with the valve throughout the entire opening and closing cycle, but it’s not necessary.

    The rest involves setting up the degree wheel (you might need an adapter) and a little math, but all this is on the Internet if you look.

    Due to the different tolerances of all the parts that make up an engine few if any come with exactly the valve timing the designers intended, so this is a place to get some free power.

    Rule of thumb is that retarding timing adds to top end power and advancing it adds to bottom end. A 2 degree change on a stock engine is safe, but more than that and you should consider checking valve to piston clearance, especially if you use an aftermarket piston.

    Read up on the process and understand it before you put a wrench to the engine.
    It sucks to get old

  12. #27
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Ok, seriously. To degree your cam(s) you need to buy, or more likely make slotted gears. A poor man can do it with a die grinder and a machinist can do it with an end mill. Search images on Google to see what they look like.

    But before you even remove a gear off your cam you need to find out what Honda was shooting for originally (I doubt it’s in the manual), or what guys that have tuned these engines before recommend. Without this information you have no reason to begin the task.

    Once you have base line numbers you’ll need a degree wheel, piston stop, a dial gauge and a method to mount it to the engine in a position that allows the dial gauge to follow the valves at the same angle as they travel in. It is recommended that the dial gauge has enough travel that it can remain in contact with the valve throughout the entire opening and closing cycle, but it’s not necessary.

    The rest involves setting up the degree wheel (you might need an adapter) and a little math, but all this is on the Internet if you look.

    Due to the different tolerances of all the parts that make up an engine few if any come with exactly the valve timing the designers intended, so this is a place to get some free power.

    Rule of thumb is that retarding timing adds to top end power and advancing it adds to bottom end. A 2 degree change on a stock engine is safe, but more than that and you should consider checking valve to piston clearance, especially if you use an aftermarket piston.

    Read up on the process and understand it before you put a wrench to the engine.
    Sounds good i will start reading all i can on the subject

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fullsizechevy9 View Post
    I could get head work done bigger valves and port work i dont think the 86 x head with the bigger valves would go on my cylinder right
    If your question is if the 86 200x head will fit. No it’s not even close, very different. This’ll be my only response in this thread except my opinion is just save your coin and buy a 250r/350x.

    Shep

  14. #29
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Theres my girl i missed you

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  15. #30
    Fullsizechevy9 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I think thats what im going to do banshee in 250r frame with twin drag pipes sticking 3 feet out each side for my girl glamy to sit on

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