Ok, seriously. To degree your cam(s) you need to buy, or more likely make slotted gears. A poor man can do it with a die grinder and a machinist can do it with an end mill. Search images on Google to see what they look like.
But before you even remove a gear off your cam you need to find out what Honda was shooting for originally (I doubt it’s in the manual), or what guys that have tuned these engines before recommend. Without this information you have no reason to begin the task.
Once you have base line numbers you’ll need a degree wheel, piston stop, a dial gauge and a method to mount it to the engine in a position that allows the dial gauge to follow the valves at the same angle as they travel in. It is recommended that the dial gauge has enough travel that it can remain in contact with the valve throughout the entire opening and closing cycle, but it’s not necessary.
The rest involves setting up the degree wheel (you might need an adapter) and a little math, but all this is on the Internet if you look.
Due to the different tolerances of all the
parts that make up an engine few if any come with exactly the valve timing the designers intended, so this is a place to get some free power.
Rule of thumb is that retarding timing adds to top end power and advancing it adds to bottom end. A 2 degree change on a stock engine is safe, but more than that and you should consider checking valve to piston clearance, especially if you use an aftermarket piston.
Read up on the process and understand it before you put a wrench to the engine.