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Thread: ‘85 250ES Big Red Fuel Overflows when on?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    GA
    --
    2

    ‘85 250ES Big Red Fuel Overflows when on?

    My step-Dad gave me his old ‘85 ATC250ES Big Red year before last. I had the carb cleaned and replaced the lines going to/from it because it had sat for several years. I had to put a new tank on it as well. When I try to run it, fuel will drain out of the carb vent/drain line if it’s just idling. It didn’t do this at first and then only occasionally would do it. Now it does it every time. Any suggestions?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    milky way galaxy
    --
    94
    Id start by replacing part number 16155-413-751

    i have a 250es but haven’t had to touch the carb yet and from the parts fiche i couldn’t find a float valve seat but if it’s replaceable on them i’d put a new one of those in too.
    If you had the carb apart while looking at a parts site it should be easy to spot I just haven’t personally had a 250es carb apart so I’m not positive, as I don’t see anything labeled familiar enough on the parts list, I’m sure someone else can chime in with the answer

    I have done carb cleanings and part replacement on lots of machines in the past just not the 250es yet.
    Most recent was my tri moto, it leaked somewhat similar (not while running though, just if the gas was left on while not running) to how your big red does, I replaced the float valve and seat and that fixed it.
    Last edited by HorseMcHorseman; 09-09-2019 at 08:28 PM. Reason: added missing word / grammar

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    One of the most overlooked part in a carb clean is the actual needle seat itself. I remove the float and needle, pick a little of the swabbing off a q-tip, break it in half and put the stick in my cordless drill. I soak the swab tip with carb cleaner and run the q-tip down to the base of the seat and polish it up a bit with the drill. Make sure you clean the float itself well as a thin layer of varnish will appear to be the uniform colour of the plastic but it will flake off when worked over. I think that may affect the floats weight thus sealing the needle somewhat; it all helps. And for what it's worth I have personally only had to buy 1 carb rebuild kit in the 30+ machines I've worked over; it just may take multiple cleanings to finally dial it in.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    GA
    --
    2
    Thank y’all. I tried cleaning it as suggested with no luck. Any good links for a carburetor replacement that isn’t too expensive and not used? I figured if I could get a carb for under $75 new instead of a $20 float needle that’d be a better deal.

  5. #5
    kevin is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Manitoba
    --
    172
    Stick with oem carb, maybe one of your floats has a hole and holding fuel

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