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Thread: 350x wiring question(s)

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    The socket doesn't look too bad, the critical thing with the sockets is the 2 contacts inside the socket for the bulb. The fingers that stick out will wear away light corrosion just by installing and removing it a few times, basically the same effect as sanding it with really fine sand paper. You could touch up the 3 ears that come out, but I don't think it's bad enough to really effect much.

    I'm guessing if the socket has corrosion like that, the headlight housing does too, guessing that's where it's worse. Here's a photo of one I have here. That inner lip is what the bulb grounds though, it's not a wearable surface, so if it's corroded up like mine, it needs to get sanded back down to metal.

    Simple test you can do, take the "bad" socket and put it in the opposite headlight and don't worry about the dust seal, start the machine and turn the light on and wiggle the socket and see if the light flickers at all. If not it's not the socket. Remove the socket and switch it back to the orig housing, and do the same test, it should flicker if the socket/housing/bulb ground connection is the problem. If not it might be the bullet connection for the sockets. The harness ground to frame is generally solid, so unless the bolt is loose I don't think it would be there, besides that the engine has an extra ground wire in one of the plugs so really there's 2 engine ground locations.

    As for how to clean up the headlight housing, not super sure what the best route would be. I'd personally probably just stick sand paper and try to get it just on the lip and twist it back and forth till it cleans up, doesn't have to be perfect, but does have to get down to the metal. Do the wiggle test till it doesn't flicker and put some dielectric grease on that lip to prevent it corroding back up since it's bare steel at that point. Stock it's zinc plated but over time zinc corrodes which is by design, the zinc corrodes so the steel doesn't till the zinc is gone in the area. Same story for a lot of bolts, the axle, etc. If you had the acid and such replating it could be possible but that might mess up the reflective coating in the housing or the glass.


    FYI, I've never done the wiggle test on my 350x headlights, but in theory you should be able to wiggle without it flickering. In theory unless you press it in, it should keep contact.
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  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Idaho
    --
    777
    I soaked it with baking soda and it cleaned it. I should have taken a picture but i could still see black in the crevasse, so I soldiered it and put on liquid tape. Definitely not pretty but works perfect...for now. The ground connection is tack welded or something. So that bit of corrosion is what caused it. Thanks again. Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    No problem, glad you figured it out. The soldering looks like the iron was too cold or too small, but it's a real fight because the wire insulation melts super easily (like 80c rated wire that melts, the stuff I used is 105c rated and it doesn't melt even when I put the tip directly on the wire). Liquid electrical tape isn't a bad idea, it doesn't need to be insulated, but sealing it from water etc is good.

    If you continue to have problems with that socket, I mod Honda sourced sockets for the 350x, they are a bit pricey though. Just the nature of sourcing parts from Honda instead of aftermarket.

    I can get new sockets cheap from China, but they are china quality with china wiring, so pretty much have to replace the contacts + wiring to have an acceptable socket, and none comes with the right type of dust cover, and the rubber rips apart so easily it's unusable anyway.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/192121651595

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