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Thread: Tire replacement questions. Replacing my original 37 year old tires

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    That's the best looking 200e I've seen in a long time. Those rear tires don't even look that worn lol. My 200es came with the stock tires, but they were dryrotted so bad they had tubes in them and after about a year of riding the tubes popped. The tire was falling apart so bad, I was amazing the tubes lasted that long, like I could see the tube ever few inches through the dry rot rips lol.

    Most (probably all?) of the 3 wheeler stock tires are out of production sadly. You could try to find NOS or OEM tires, but the cost will likely be out of this world for anything in better shape than what you already have. Defo keep the tires around, people that doe OEM correct restores need the OEM tires from somewhere, either NOS which is quite rare to find, or used OEM in usable shape.

    You can check if parts are available or not by looking them up on partzilla.com. For example the rear tires are #4 in the diagram. Appears like there was two stock options, Ohtsu and Dunlop. Maybe one was just an alternative OEM supported model.



    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...e-a/rear-wheel

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver Island, B.C., Canada
    --
    812
    Those splines look beautiful...love seeing factory grease still on them too.
    1985 Honda ATC 250ES
    1985 Honda ATC 250SX
    1984 Honda ATC 200M
    1983 Honda ATC 200
    1984 Honda ATC 110

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Thanks guys. Yeah they are not totally bald but they are very slick and rounded over. I wonder what would happen if I rotated them so the other direction points forward? Probably ride bad. Plus one is leaking, if I inflate it it is flat in two days. I will certainly hold onto them. Finding replacements for 40.00 each sealed the deal.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    --
    661
    Check out this video for changing ATV tires with hand tools - a lot of great tips/pointers to make the job simple. I changed tires with this technique with ease. Got all my original OEM date coded tires sitting on the shelf - now driving on replacements. Check out the kid's boots in the video - pretty cool.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13KkdtIz3j0
    Last edited by bkvette3; 01-31-2020 at 09:52 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Wow glad I ordered while the tires were on rollback on walmart's website. They jumped up 32.00 each now to 72.00
    Should be coming tomorrow

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Pekin IL
    --
    529
    Nice score my wife always complains about Walmart's online prices jumping around, that's a big jump though.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1985 250r
    1985 200s
    1984 200x
    bandito x2
    1979 atc70
    Trikefest 2012,13,14,15

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by hippyplz View Post
    Nice score my wife always complains about Walmart's online prices jumping around, that's a big jump though.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    Yeah it is. They probably sell things really low than raise the price way up to make some loss back. That jump is insane though.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    I doubt they are selling at a loss even at the low price lol. It's like parts stores and auto mechanical shops. It's generally accepted that there's a 30% markup from parts store to mechanic shop (the price they sell you the part for). The parts store typically delivers the part, and the only time involved for the mechanic shop is the call to order the part. The part store has easily 30% mark up from what the business pays for the part, it's probably closer to 50%-100% markup. It's just how business works, every set of hands something goes through is anothe set of hands that needs to make a profit to keep doing their work. Ideally the best price you could get is buying direct from the manufacture, but they don't normally care about single item sales, they want to sell 1000 units at once. That's how the distrubution network works, they buy in bulk, then sell in smaller quantities to stores etc that can accept say 20 units each, then the customer buys 1-2.

    I've personally hit this wall myself, the connector to make the 84-85 round CDI adapters I was able to get through the guy I'm working with in the past, but his source closed up and now we have to order like 5000 qty min order. Price is a lot better per unit, but 5000 connectors for a very niche market is very very hard to invest in with out putting a huge markup on the connector value.

    Anyway, the online walmart store is more like amazon, there's more than one seller, and they can choose whatever price they want. The person selling the cheap priced tires probably ran out of stock, so it's the next best price from the short list of sellers.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    I doubt they are selling at a loss even at the low price lol. It's like parts stores and auto mechanical shops. It's generally accepted that there's a 30% markup from parts store to mechanic shop (the price they sell you the part for). The parts store typically delivers the part, and the only time involved for the mechanic shop is the call to order the part. The part store has easily 30% mark up from what the business pays for the part, it's probably closer to 50%-100% markup. It's just how business works, every set of hands something goes through is anothe set of hands that needs to make a profit to keep doing their work. Ideally the best price you could get is buying direct from the manufacture, but they don't normally care about single item sales, they want to sell 1000 units at once. That's how the distrubution network works, they buy in bulk, then sell in smaller quantities to stores etc that can accept say 20 units each, then the customer buys 1-2.

    I've personally hit this wall myself, the connector to make the 84-85 round CDI adapters I was able to get through the guy I'm working with in the past, but his source closed up and now we have to order like 5000 qty min order. Price is a lot better per unit, but 5000 connectors for a very niche market is very very hard to invest in with out putting a huge markup on the connector value.

    Anyway, the online walmart store is more like amazon, there's more than one seller, and they can choose whatever price they want. The person selling the cheap priced tires probably ran out of stock, so it's the next best price from the short list of sellers.
    Oh yeah no way they sold them at a loss, I meant the small loss on profit will be made up selling them for more now. But you're right it could be a different seller.

    Tires came today! They seem nice even though they are all smushed in, it's like they are vacuum sealed or something. I can push them out but they go back in again I'm sure that when they are mounted and aired up they will be good. The lugs are sure better than my stockers

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Here they are
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  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Yea pretty typical for tires to be smushed down as much as possible for shipping (less area = cheaper rates). Throw something between the two beads to help encourage the tire to widen back to normal, the person mounting the tire will thank you. I bought small tractor tires before to be mounted on truck rims and they shipped the same way. Was nearly impossible to get them to take air. Doesn't help the rims were wider than the tires (7in vs I think the tire was 5in wide). Those tires made my yard truck unstopable though, never got it stuck, but it sure tore up the trails just driving through them where everything else would get stuck lol.

    Too bad I got the truck with a bad frame, and the mud etc didn't help matters. About half of it went to the scrap yard, and the other half got sold on ebay, those Toyota truck parts are like the best selling vehicle parts I know of. I've thought about putting the tires off and putting them on atv rims and run them on a beater big red or something similar but they are 30in so a bit large for that with out some re-gearing mods. BTW, that truck was sold to me as a ready to drive down the road vehicle, some people just don't know what they have, clearly wasn't ready for the road ever, the wiring was hacked up really bad (carb'ed body with an EFI engine). It had a nice interior which was worth the price of the whole truck plus I got to use it for a few years. I got like 1/2 my money back out of the aftermarket box too (fiberglass bed sides are desirable).

    EDIT:

    Oh those tires aren't bad at all, the tires I had were completely flat lol, the two beads were touching each other at rest. Those tires should mount up super easy. The air pressure will push the tread out.


  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    I have a soft spot for old yotas. I've had two.
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  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Ahh, I see you like the generation before the ones I had, 78-83 if I recall correctly. The ones I have had were always 86-87, never got lucky to find a 84-85 with the solid front axle. Very few are in good shape here because of the road salts but I've bought a ton of parts machines lol. If you need anything for the 84-88 generation or 89-95 generation, shoot me a pm. Also if you have any wiring/pig tails needed, send me a photo of what you need. I slowly got into making wiring related parts for these trucks.

    I had a 96 Tacoma, but sadly got hit with the frame rot problem got it for a steal in great shape for $2000, asking price was $3600 but had some rust starting on the body. One year later the frame is busted through at the driver's side leaf spring, no sign till it just broke one day. Could have plated and welded it up, ended up just selling it and another parts truck I had with a really bad frame but a great low miles engine/trans for $1900 together to cut my losses.

    I love the newer engines, but I really like the build style/quality of the older trucks. The big mixed up model to get that desired effect is the 95-98 T100. The frame, suspension etc is the same as the old mini trucks, just wider, but the engine and rear diff is the newer style that ultimately ended up in the Tacoma, 4Runners etc. Love my 98 T100 SR5, but sadly has a miss right now, I think I've narrowed it down to a bad injector. Handy to have a collection of parts vehicles to swap parts around to make troubleshooting easier and cheaper =). Sadly the T100 is hit hard with being a Michigan vehicle all it's life, so the body is pretty shot, but surprise, the frame is holding up just fine. Front lower control arms are started to get pretty rusted, so I'll have to swap them out before too long.

    I also have a couple first gen Tundra's (what the T100 turned into), and man the build quality dropped really badly. The door pins on both parts vehicles I have are completely shot, while every toyota I've owned that's older the door pins are great on including a truck with 512k miles. Seems like around 2000 is when quality dropped for Toyota . Same story for the corolla, 97 was a great car, 98+ i'm not so sure, every one I find needs a lot of work. Camry is similar, started off with the 92-96 body style, my parents moved to the nicer looking 97-2002 style, but the body is thinner, more clunks and bangs, they rust out sooner, etc. Can't bash toyota too hard though, effectively every one I've drove I've got it past 300k miles no problem not counting the Tacoma. The T100 might be the second one I don't get past 300k miles but it's from rust more than real issues like engine/transmission etc (it's also a work truck, so it hauls wood every year, scrap metal, etc whatever I need to move).

    BTW, the pick of the 86 above doesn't show the rust, the frame was bad way before I bought it, last owner put like 60+ chain saw bars on the frame to plate it with bubble gum welds (falls off with a ). The floor board is just gone, the cab mount there does nothing as it wasn't even connected to the cab any more lol. Rear cab mount wasn't any better. Right behind the cam the frame was broke in two, the passenger side is what held the truck up. After pulling the box off and stripping the parts out all that was left was the cab, frame, axles, engine & trans. Car dollying it to my dad's place to pull the engine, trans, and axles the truck was so falling apart I had to come along the front of the frame down to the dolly so the truck didn't break in half. Amazing I used it for a year or two like that. I think I drove 15-20mph all the way lol.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
    --
    80
    Both my brother and brother in law have T100 4x4s. One is a reg cab long bed manual the other is a ext cab short ced auto. Great trucks. I have a 16 Tundra now.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Cool stuff, does the reb cab have the 2.7L 3RZ engine? What kind of MPG does it get? According to a couple different people I met, they get around 27mpg. The 4x4 v6 3.4L 5vz gets around 20-22mpg unless you hyper-mile it, I've gotten near 25mpg. The 2wd 86 extra cab long box I drove for a few months was getting 30-35mpg and the carb floods over at idle so I have the idle set high, and the front right caliper hangs up after braking. I could probably pull 35-40mpg out of that truck lol. Oh it has like 270k miles on it too xD.

    Toyota makes one of the best automatic transmissions, but there's still something about driving a stick that I really like. Really wish they made something with the 1UZ v8 engine that had a stick factory. Might be throwing one of those in my T100 once I find a better cab for the frame. It's basically the power of a super charged 3.4L, but NA 4.0L that weighs less than the v6 and should pull about the same mpg. The same team that designed the 2JZ engine (the supra tuner engine) designed the 1UZ. It's known to last 400-500k miles if taken care of.

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