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Thread: Tire replacement questions. Replacing my original 37 year old tires

  1. #31
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    May 2010
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    N.E. WI
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    Both the T100's have the 3.4 in them. The reg cab is a 95 I believe which I think was the last year made in Japan

  2. #32
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    Here's a pic
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  3. #33
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    Apr 2012
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    Nope pretty sure all T100's are Japanese built, my 98 is a JT vin. Starting with the 2000 Tundra they were made in Texas (5T) and Tacoma was made I think it was Ohio for 4T. My corolla is a 4T, Camry 4T (some Camry's are JT), I think it was all 4Runners are Japanese, All or most of Lexus models are Japanese, and pretty sure Landcruiser is Japanese built too. Pretty much anything premium and/or a world wide model is made in Japan and imported on a boat, anything else is american/canadaian built (for the US market) and some of the most common models in usa are built here like the Tundra I suspect is more of a USA model than Europe.

    Interesting about the 3.4L reg cap, I think most reg cabs are 2.7L unless maybe the 4x4 model, but I've never seen a reg cab 4x4 95+, all the ones I've seen are 93-94 except I think one posted on a forum. I guess it's kind of like the early Trundras, 2wd got the 3.4L while 4x4 and I think extended cabs got the 2UZ v8.

    Kind of funny this turned into a Toyota thread lol.

  4. #34
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    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
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    Tires are on.
    Tech at the tire shop said one was good and the other the tire and wheel were basically rusted together inside and he told me he had to grind the wheel on the inside. One tire was all brown inside and the other was fine, all black.

    Kept the original tires of course.

    The one with the rust inside had a plug in the tire I wonder if it let just a hair bit of moisture inside because that plug pre dates me owning the trike (11yrs) and that tire has been going flat for about a year and i just pump it up when i use it.
    I put a generous amount of new grease on the splines and a tad bit of copper antiseeze on the actual threads.
    I used a hitch/hair pin in place of a cotter pin, same type of pin that holds rc car bodies on.

    Here she is now.
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  5. #35
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    Apr 2012
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    The R clip should be fine for the axle nut, just needs to be able to stop the nut from coming off from vibration and such.

    Hopefully the tech cleaned up the rim for you, ideally repainted the sanded down rim to prevent future rust. Just a guess but the machine could have sat for a bit or something and got water in the tire with the hole in it if it sat flat. If it was always aired up, I don't really see how water could sneak it's way in that route. Of course if the tire was low often, the bead pulls back and can let junk get in from that direction which I'd guess is the main source of the problem and would make the bead leak worse.

    +1 for the grease and anti seize =).

    Looks like the tires match up quite well.

  6. #36
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    N.E. WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    The R clip should be fine for the axle nut, just needs to be able to stop the nut from coming off from vibration and such.

    Hopefully the tech cleaned up the rim for you, ideally repainted the sanded down rim to prevent future rust. Just a guess but the machine could have sat for a bit or something and got water in the tire with the hole in it if it sat flat. If it was always aired up, I don't really see how water could sneak it's way in that route. Of course if the tire was low often, the bead pulls back and can let junk get in from that direction which I'd guess is the main source of the problem and would make the bead leak worse.

    +1 for the grease and anti seize =).

    Looks like the tires match up quite well.
    It could be due to riding it in snow low on air and sometimes I'd power slide it around pretty hard in the snow. He said he did sand it down and used bead sealer too. So hope it's good. I'm sure these tires will be on for a very long time.

  7. #37
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    Apr 2012
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    Should be another 37 years based on the first set of tires =). Generally speaking, tires have gotten better over time. That's assuming your ride and storage characteristics stay the same.

    The snow could be a pretty valid cause. Normally when a tire leaks, it's best to troubleshoot where the leak is (soapy water) and get it fixed. It's not just to stop the annoyance of airing the tire up all the time =).

  8. #38
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    May 2010
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    N.E. WI
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    I'll be an old dude in 37 years, if I make it that long. The grandkids will have to tell me how the tires still do then ha

  9. #39
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    Apr 2012
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    That's the great thing about these machines, if taken care of, it's likely they will last another 30+ years =).

  10. #40
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    Oct 2002
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    In 1989 I bought a white standard cab Toyota 4 x 4 for 9600$. In one month I had rolled it over and destroyed both axles. I beat the hell out of it.

    Then I bought 33" tires and a 3" lift and beat on it some more, destroying the standard transmission in the process. Toyota fixed it 2X.

    Then I cranked the torsion bars and added rear blocks for 36" Dick Cepek Fun Country tires, it was INSANE!! It climbed anything I threw at it, Chevys, Fords, Dodge with 44" tires couldn't out climb the standard 4 cylinder Yota I got 17 years out of that 9600$ 4x4.

    Then I bought a 94 with a V6 and extra cab for 4K, and I was older so I stopped ruining it. I did some work on it but overall it was bulletproof. It blew a headgasket at around 150K because I loved to redline it and all the local machine shops had closed; And I needed a vehicle ASAP!

    So, I grabbed a 2003 with 48K miles on it for 13K about 10 years ago and I still drive it today. Great truck, has a lift and 33" BFG's but it struggles to pull my 21' Toy Hauler so I hope to find a Tundra this year...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  11. #41
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    Apr 2012
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    The "3.slow" people claim has a major head gasket problem. I know a guy that had a friend that bought a high miles 4runner, head gasket went out at 300k miles, he got rid of it around 700k miles. He was so impressed he also bought a 4runner, same year and color and the documentation said it also had the head gasket replaced at 300k miles, he scrapped it at 680k because the hatch was rusting out. I've bought around 8 toyota trucks with that engine, only one with a blown head gasket, rest were dead because of other reasons, one of the trucks has 512k miles, ecu was bad due to rust hole in wheel well and salt water from winter getting into the computer.

    As for a tundra, the first gens had frame rot problems like the tacomas, not sure if the recall new frame replacement trucks are a solid pick or not if you want to go older. The newer ones (like 2006+ish?) shouldn't have the frame problems, but I don't look at new stuff often, too much plastic and electronics for me. The 4.7L does ok, but if you want good power, grab the 5.7L but say goodbye to the gas mileage. I'm hoping to swap a spare 1UZ 4.0L v8 into my T100, similar power to the 4.7L 2UZ, but it's more of a race spec engine (6 bolt main, all al block, high compression (90+ octane), extremely smooth running, etc. The 4.7L beats it on the torque spec a fair bit, but hp is similar.

    Check your 2003 owner's manual, my 98 T100 says min octane is 87, but ideal is 90 or 91. Might get a little extra power out of it that you didn't know it had. Also, there is a TRD supercharger for the 3.4L, it might be worth it if your engine is still healthy. It's not much boost, but it increases the hp quite a lot over stock. I think they run somewhere around $2-3k used and are bolt on if I recall correctly. Research it out though, I know there was some years of the 3.4L that it didn't work on, like limitations of the ECU or something, could repin and swap ecus though if that's a problem.


    Anyway, I have a thing for numbers and cost of living etc. In total you paid $26,600 for the vehicles (I suspect that doesn't count repairs, tires etc). From 1989-2020 that's 31 years, so under $1000 per year average which is quite good. Don't show that number to the people leasing their vehicles thinking they somehow are saving in the long run on repairs.

    I'll run thought my numbers real quick to see where I stand, I buy and fix old junkers though. Including my 96 tacoma that had a bad frame after a year ($1000 loss overall) and including the $1500ish in parts for my LS400 I haven't installed yet to get the engine up to spec (no maintenance on it for something like 20 years before I got it). I'm sitting at a similar figure. I'd have to look up my title transfers but I started driving Toyota about 10 years ago, $6450 total including repairs (off the top of my head atleast, doesn't count parts vehicles but most I've made a profit selling parts off them), so my vehicle ownership is around $645/year average. Buying newer might be a pretty good option long term investment wise since I have quite a lot of time wrapped up in repairs, but I seem to find the worst machines to fix up lol. Really interesting numbers though.

    If I don't count the trucks since they were work vehicles, not commute vehicles, my corolla and camry I have about $2800 into and the Camry was the first vehicle I was driving when I switched to Toyota, and the Corolla replace it when I had a brake line go out and found out ALL of the lines are original and rusted out, gas line went bad like a month later just moving the vehicle around the yard. Got 60k out of the Camry and 80k out of the corolla, both at 300k miles. Didn't count my lexus in the mix, I've had it about a year, $600 initial cost, about $350 for getting the rear wheel bearing done (paid my dad to do it, pain job and required a press). With the Lexus it's $3750. Really love the Lexus, miss the corolla's gas mileage though lol. Wish there was a high quality high mpg little car like the corolla but built to lexus standards (minus the extra unneeded features).

    For fun here's some pics of it. The pic of it clean was right around the time I bought it. I live on a dirt road, and it's never been garage kept that I know of. Added photos of the rust, not bad at all for a 1990, big time for living it's whole life in Michigan. Clearly the rear passenger tire area was in some sort of wreck, you can see where the bondo was used. Also ignore the spare tire, I have to get a new set of tires for it soon, also the rear struts are getting weak (sagging pretty bad). Talking about suspention, I can't find the spec on it, but the rear wheels have a crazy amount of wheel travel for a car (atleast from that time era). My dad's high lift jack all the way up can only get the rear tires off the ground about an inch and the lift point isn't *that* high up in the body. I have a parts car that would be really neat to build some sort of dune buggy out of, if I ever do that, the rear suspension will be from the parts LS400.

    FYI, under the car is effectively rust free, it's only around the wheel wells that you can see in the pic where there's rust, atleast all that I've been able to find. Both of my parts cars are exactly the same way with the exception of the rear ended one having some light surface rust starting where the metal was bent. Those cars have THICK paint, I'm talking like 3 times thicker than the paint job on any other car, maybe even thicker. Some day I'll have to measure the thickness some time of a flake, but it's roughly twice as thick as a fingernail (going from memory, fair chances I might remember it thicker than it was lol).
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  12. #42
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    N.E. WI
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    The LS400 is an excellent car.

    Good old toyota truck discussion. No toyota 4x4s get best in class mileage so when I decided to buy a full size I didn't even look at anything else and bought a Tundra. Been a great truck had it four years. Hauling car seats and family in the small trucks doesnt work well, when it was just me they were perfect though. The 5.7 is an animal. Tows like a dream, 6k pounds is unnoticeable on the freeway. No sway at all either. Real world its maybe 2mpg freeway less than others but it also is the only half ton with a 4.30 in it, makes a huge difference when towing but hits mileage a bit. Not having to visit the dealer all the time is worth 2mpg to me any day. And it doesnt use gimmicks to try and increase mileage like start stop or cylinder deactivation etc. All complex stuff. Basically the polar opposite of a big red trike haha

  13. #43
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    Apr 2012
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    Wow there's more Toyota people here than I thought. The big red trike comparison isn't fair, atleast electric start, aux power, racks, etc is all desired features by a sizable number of owners =). Also you can convert a big red to be the same setup as like a atc200s, but you need 200w worth of lights to not need the regulator and drop the battery/electric start option and remove a bunch of wiring related to the battery/charging/electric start systems.

    Did you know there was an "emissions" computer even for the carb'ed 22r trucks, atleast for 1986? How many vehicles can you say has a computer tied to their carb'ed vehicles. Never researched exactly what it does, I don't recall an O2 sensor, so not sure what it was reading, and the output must have just been dash lights. I do have an 86 wiring diagram book, probably should check into that some day, might have been a California only thing.

    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...2F174081544748

  14. #44
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    N.E. WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Wow there's more Toyota people here than I thought. The big red trike comparison isn't fair, atleast electric start, aux power, racks, etc is all desired features by a sizable number of owners =). Also you can convert a big red to be the same setup as like a atc200s, but you need 200w worth of lights to not need the regulator and drop the battery/electric start option and remove a bunch of wiring related to the battery/charging/electric start systems.

    Did you know there was an "emissions" computer even for the carb'ed 22r trucks, atleast for 1986? How many vehicles can you say has a computer tied to their carb'ed vehicles. Never researched exactly what it does, I don't recall an O2 sensor, so not sure what it was reading, and the output must have just been dash lights. I do have an 86 wiring diagram book, probably should check into that some day, might have been a California only thing.

    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...2F174081544748
    The 82 big red has no aux power. That came in 83.

    The first gen Toyota trucks had no computer like that. 79-83

  15. #45
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    Apr 2012
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    FYI, the usa first gen was the 3rd gen for Japan =).

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux

    Around the late 70's and early 80's I see there was a lot of VIN's for the 3 wheelers for different areas of the US, seems like there were regulation updates around that time, might have effected the pickups around that time too. I have a wire diagram for the 83 pickups, but sadly it's not as detailed as the later books.

    Alright, pulled out my 86 book and I found the Emission control computer. It was for Federal (all of usa I guess), and canadian markets. Oh next page has california spec, lot more sensors being read there including a o2 sensor. It read a fair few number of sensors, I'll list them below.

    • Water thermo switch
    • speed sensor
    • vacuum switch
    • igniter (I suspect for rpm signal)



    Outputs (atleast in my mind)
    • fuel cut solenoid
    • vacuum switch, it's labeled for Evapo
    • choke heater
    • CMH relay (google says cmh = cold mix heater)



    Humm checked the 83 EWD book (ideally the same back to 79 but I don't have those books), it also has the emission control computer.

    It's job is a few things, according to the testing info

    • choke heater is on when the engine is running
    • cmh relay has power with ign switch on
    • cmh relay has ground when engine running and water temp > 131f
    • evap system activated with ign switch on, water temp > 131f, and speed is > 16mph
    • fuel cut off not activated with ign switch off, or engine above 2200rpm and vacuum switch open ( > 15.75 in. hg.) - I suspect this is an early decceleration fuel cut off, but it's carb'ed so there's still fuel in the float bowl, in newer vehicles it just disables the injectors




    Overall, don't really like the name of it, but it seems like pretty much all good things. The fuel cutoff I'm not sure about. I don't think it works on my one 86 truck, acts like it's stuck open (it drains the float bowl when off). It also floods the engine at idle, but the fuel level in the carb is too high so probably can fix that with adjustment. Besides that, the 2wd truck gets 30-35mpg with over sized tires, 5 speed. The 4 speeds were ironically higher geared, atleast for the rear axle ratio + transmission highest gear ratio.

    Also, the 83 California spec truck does show an o2 sensor. No mention of an EGR valve or anything like that, only extra thing I really see on the CA version is 2 temp sensors, and an idle control (EACV)

    Encase you don't believe me... here's the 86

    https://i.gyazo.com/32431a8af048812c...e1f51fc34e.png

    and here's the 83

    https://i.gyazo.com/46fcd3a2a004bfc8...3c23489810.jpg

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